No resistance from Hertz Sub in SOS enclosure

[S2G-Unit]

So I've been having some issues with my audio system in my car. I have the following equipment:
-Pioneer DEH-80PRS
-Kicker KX650.4
-CDT ES62i Speakers
-Hertz ES250 Subwoofer

The issue i want to fix, is that my subwoofer which is in it's SOS enclosure is not working. I've tested the sub wire's continuity (which is brand new & was passed about 3 years ago). I've made sure to test the subwoofer in different channels on the amp but I get no sound. My speakers work in any of the channels but nothing for the sub.

I took the sub out of my car tested it according to troubleshooting guides & there is no resistance on the cable end. Anything else I should test? Get the silicone seal off the woofer & test directly at the sub connection itself?

If the sub is damaged, I'll get an estimate to repair but could you guys recommend a replacement subs around 100-150$?

 

[mwagner10702]

I am assuming you are not considering another Hertz SW due to your experience?

Couple things to consider:
1) The SoS enclosure has .63 cu/ft of volume. You need to be sure to find a speaker that is sized for that enclosure. There are many 10" subs that would fit, but are designed for larger enclosures so be sure to size the sub correctly.
2) You didn't mention how much wattage is powering the sub. You want to make sure you get one that is optimized for the amount of power your amp is putting out on the sub channel. Don't buy a sub that can handle 1000W if your amp only puts out 200W to the sub channel.

I'd look at the JL Audio 10W0v3-4. Physically it is the right size and technically matches your enclosure's cu/ft requirements and can handle up to 300 watts RMS. Plus it is $99.

 

[S2G-Unit]

I am assuming you are not considering another Hertz SW due to your experience?

Couple things to consider:
1) The SoS enclosure has .63 cu/ft of volume. You need to be sure to find a speaker that is sized for that enclosure. There are many 10" subs that would fit, but are designed for larger enclosures so be sure to size the sub correctly.
2) You didn't mention how much wattage is powering the sub. You want to make sure you get one that is optimized for the amount of power your amp is putting out on the sub channel. Don't buy a sub that can handle 1000W if your amp only puts out 200W to the sub channel.

I'd look at the JL Audio 10W0v3-4. Physically it is the right size and technically matches your enclosure's cu/ft requirements and can handle up to 300 watts RMS. Plus it is $99.

I wouldn't mind Hertz again.

Here are the specs of my amp. I will be using 2 bridged channels to power emy sub.
RMS Power in Watts, All Channels Driven
@ 14.4V,
4Ω Stereo, < 1% THD+N 4 x 60 4 x 120 4 x 175
@ 2Ω Stereo, < 1% THD+N 4 x 90 4 x 170 4 x 215
@ 4Ω Mono, < 1% THD+N 2 x 175 2 x 325 2x 425

@ 12.5V,
4Ω Stereo, 0.085% THD+N 4 x 35 4 x 70 4 x 90
@ 2Ω Stereo, 0.5% THD+N 4 x 70 4 x 135 4 x 180
@ 4Ω Mono, 0.5% THD+N 2 x 130 2 x 250 2 x 325

 

[mwagner10702]

Using your Kicker in bridged mode is fine, but then I am assuming you have another amp for the door speakers. Using two bridged channels will require a dual voice coil sub (DVC) so the JL sub I suggested will not work as it is a single voice coil. JL Audio makes a shallow DVC sub (10TW3-D4) but it is out of your desired price range. I'd probably go back to another Hertz sub.

What you need in a sub woofer is:
1) Shallow depth (4.68") to fit the SoS enclosure
2) DVC
3) Sub that is tuned for an enclosure of .63 cu/ft.

 

[S2G-Unit]

Using your Kicker in bridged mode is fine, but then I am assuming you have another amp for the door speakers. Using two bridged channels will require a dual voice coil sub (DVC) so the JL sub I suggested will not work as it is a single voice coil. JL Audio makes a shallow DVC sub (10TW3-D4) but it is out of your desired price range. I'd probably go back to another Hertz sub.

What you need in a sub woofer is:
1) Shallow depth (4.68") to fit the SoS enclosure
2) DVC
3) Sub that is tuned for an enclosure of .63 cu/ft.

I would only be bridging 2 channels to give the subwoofer power. The other 2 out of 4 channels will be for left & right speakers.

Using the JL you recommended, could I just use 1 single channel out of 4 to power the sub? I had my gain & volume on the sub turned down. I'm just looking for some low end fill & not car shaking bass.

 

[mwagner10702]

I would only be bridging 2 channels to give the subwoofer power. The other 2 out of 4 channels will be for left & right speakers.

Using the JL you recommended, could I just use 1 single channel out of 4 to power the sub? I had my gain & volume on the sub turned down. I'm just looking for some low end fill & not car shaking bass.

Based on your amp you would wire as follows:

View attachment 153640

 

[S2G-Unit]

Based on your amp you would wire as follows:

View attachment 153640

Ok, that's how I had my Hertz wired this whole time. To clarify, would wiring the a new 10W0v3-4 the same way as in the picture work properly?

 

[mwagner10702]

Ok, that's how I had my Hertz wired this whole time. To clarify, would wiring the a new 10W0v3-4 the same way as in the picture work properly?

Yes.

Review your gain settings after installing the new sub. The gain needs to be set properly so the output of the head unit matches the input of the amp. Remember, the gain is not a volume control. Your manual should describe the process for setting the gain properly.

Finally, before purchasing the JL sub, double check the sub's size specifications with that of the enclosure, especially the depth. I've seen this sub used with this enclosure, however I don't have either in front of me so I can't guarantee correct fitment.

Good luck.

 

[mwagner10702]

Also, when setting the gain, you want to make sure the bass and treble controls on the head unit are set to "0".

 

[RYU]

If you get no resistance readings that's not a good sign. The easiest way to test a speaker is to take a 9V battery and connect the (+) and (-) wire to the battery. The speaker will protrude out if the polarity is correct. It will suck itself in if it's backwards or "out of phase". I've tried a 12V battery from my drill but haven't tried 18V. Go 9v or lower to be safe.

if nothing happens your voice coil is likely done for.