Passenger Window Glass Replacement DIY

[Formula 170]

Does anyone have a write up on replacing a passenger side window? My original one was damaged (long story!) and I found a replacement from another 91. Can someone point me in the right direction of offer some tips?

Thanks!

 

[MotorMouth93]

Start off by getting a hold of the factory service manual, it's available as a PDF for free.

It describes the process pretty well, but if you get hung up on any of the steps come back and we'll help you through it. The part that gave me the most trouble was getting the front clips holding the lower window trim piece on to release, besides that it's fairly straightforward just kinda tedious.

 

[Old Guy]

If by lower trim @motorMouth means the outside trim along the base of the glass, then yes be careful with its removal. Its aluminum, soft and super duper expensive for what it is. Check post #5 in this thread (helped me a lot) for details on how to remove the outside trim. Your problem is a little different than mine because you absolutely need to remove the inner panel; but, the specifics of removing the trim piece apply Plan for clip breakage (especially on a 1991 - replacement clips are available from Honda.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...ing-interior-door-panel?highlight=window+trim

 

[170 formula]

Thanks for the replies. Do you have a link to the factory service manual PDF?

 

[Hass]

Google 30 second search “nsx service manual nsxprime”

https://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf

https://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Service_manuals

 

[dablackgoku1234]

I have my doors dismantled at the moment, and I must say, it's quite involved. You will need to take everything apart to remove the window, and along the way, plastic tabs will break. The service manual lists out all the steps, but be aware that each step may take up to 20 mins to complete (the tough ones). In a nutshell:

- remove door handle
- remove inner door panel
- remove speakers
- remove inner window moulding
- remove outer window moudling (this is the one old guy is referring to, such a b*tch to take out)
- remove front sash
- remove rear sash (disconnecting the door latch is also a b*tch)
- remove glass stoppers, remove bolts to window regulator
- finally, pull out window

Now since its out, you may as well
- clean the window tracks
- relube/upgrade window regulator

 

[I_M_Legend]

I have my doors dismantled at the moment, and I must say, it's quite involved. You will need to take everything apart to remove the window, and along the way, plastic tabs will break. The service manual lists out all the steps, but be aware that each step may take up to 20 mins to complete (the tough ones). In a nutshell:

- remove door handle
- remove inner door panel
- remove speakers
- remove inner window moulding
- remove outer window moudling (this is the one old guy is referring to, such a b*tch to take out)
- remove front sash
- remove rear sash (disconnecting the door latch is also a b*tch)
- remove glass stoppers, remove bolts to window regulator
- finally, pull out window

Now since its out, you may as well
- clean the window tracks
- relube/upgrade window regulator

You take any pictures? For future reference.

 

[170 formula]

Rear Sash removal

ok, so I’m at the point where I need to remove the rear door sash. I’ve got the two bolts removed - regular and the one with the lock as Well as the weather stripping, but I can’t remove the sash. Any tricks or tips to get this out?

Thanks!

 

[Old Guy]

About 7 years ago I purchased new rear door sashs because the rubber boots were torn on mine and I was a bit obsessive about appearance. After checking out the replacement details, I decided that I didn't need to be so obsessive and the sashs remain wrapped up and safely stored. So, I am advising based on 'book knowledge' rather than having actually executed the sash replacement.

You clearly have the mounting bolt removed and the locknut has been removed. My recollection is that the stud (Honda calls it the door adjusting bolt) that the locknut is mounted on also has to be removed before the sash can be pulled up. As I recall, the adjusting bolt can be completely unscrewed out of the base of the sash to allow removal of the sash. In the photo, it looks like that adjusting bolt is still in place. The adjusting bolt has a collar on it. With the adjusting bolt in it proper position in the door skin and the collar pulled tight against the sheet metal (looks like yours has moved a bit) be sure you measure the distance from the body sheet metal to the sash at the adjusting bolt location as that will give you a good starting point for realigning the tracks when you do reassembly. As I recall the adjusting bolt screws in and out of the sash assembly to establish alignment of the window tracks. You are also supposed to scribe a line around the outside diameter of the locknut and mounting bolt prior to loosening to help you re establish the correct location of the track. I can't tell whether you did that.

One thing that looks odd on your car is that the adjusting bolt looks like it does not have an opening on the end to accept an allen key. Perhaps that is just a photo oddity because without that allen key fitting I don't know how you are supposed to adjust the bolt in and out and hold it in place while you tighten the lock nut.

Don't forget that the lock handle rod has to be carefully popped out of its fitting on the latch before the sash can be extracted.

Anyway, that is the way I remember it - not actually having done it!

 

[170 formula]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the adjusting bolt is what’s keeping it from being removed. Perhaps as suggested I’ll measure the height and then remove it.

 

[Old Guy]

The 'Honda' way for the measurement is with that collar pressed up against the inside to the door skin, measure the distance from the sash to the inside door skin at the bolt location. Honda probably specified that because they wanted the measurement taken before anything is loosened. However, it seems that measuring the extension of the bolt from the sash should achieve the same result.

 

[170 formula]

Job complete! Thanks all for the help. After the small difficulty the window went in without any problems.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

The 'Honda' way for the measurement is with that collar pressed up against the inside to the door skin, measure the distance from the sash to the inside door skin at the bolt location. Honda probably specified that because they wanted the measurement taken before anything is loosened. However, it seems that measuring the extension of the bolt from the sash should achieve the same result.

What I typically do is mark the stud, then count how many turns it took to remove it, then I write the number on the sash......