Please post your ride heights with coilovers

[redtwinturbo]

I put in my Tein mono flex's and I absolutely love them but I'm deciding on a ride height. I have 245/45s on the back that are being replaced with 245/40s this weekend so I'm going to lose about .13 in the rear height. Right now I'm at 23" fender to ground in the front and 25.5 in the back. I sort of ran out of time today so I left it where it was until tomorrow. Stock my car was 25 in the front and 27" in the back with the 45 sidewall. What height are you guys going with? I thinking of going up around .25-.5" in the front and down .5 in the back. The Teins are height adjustable independent of the spring rates so I'm not losing spring rate by going low. 23" in the front I think is too low. Also what's the lowest height you can go with without camber adjustable top plates and still be within oem specs on this car?? Thanks!

 

[SWIFTVISION]

Looks nice!

 

[redtwinturbo]

Looks nice!

Thanks you sir. I think I've decided on going up .5" in the front tomorrow. I'll take some more pics for reference.

 

[KooLaid]

Yeah, raise that front end up. I had mine that low or not even for a couple days. It was a nightmare. I had basically no suspension travel. It was a harsh ride. I ended up jacking the front and rear up to about where 2 fingers would fit above front and rear tires. Sorry, numbers are actually written down but in the car and it's bedtime at the moment.

Since I'm more performance driven than asthetics, I'm going to go for the 1" drop all the way around, if not less at .75" total.

BTW, this is with Tein RE

pics were before. Total Drop was about 2"+ in the front. Rear was.... unknown.

 

[LJSB]

Don't measure fender to ground. Look in the manual on this site and measure the right way.

 

[Omega1]

I can barely get my shoe underneath my Shine Auto chin. Yes, it is dumped, and it's definetly not for the faint of heart. Looks compartment, PRICELESS.
Sitting on Dali-coilovers, 18 and 19" Maya's.

 

[redtwinturbo]

Don't measure fender to ground. Look in the manual on this site and measure the right way.

So far on my car fender to ground has been dead on in comparison to coilover bracket lock to spring seat lock. This is the number I'm actually setting my height off of but that reference doesn't apply to other people who don't have the same coilovers.

 

[Zishan]

redtwinturbo- That thing is low! Nice, but off balance. It should look better with your following adjustments.

Koolaid- Wow, car's looking nice! I like those wheels. I think I saw a picture of them before, but I just realized how nice they look!


I have Eibach springs with Bilstein shocks and Dali adjustable perchs, basically a coilover system. I haven't measure how low I am, but it's not that low. I plan on making some adjustments after I have my rear camber kit installed. My front end is -1 degrees on both sides and can not be corrected more than that. The rear is -4 degrees....but should be ironed out a bit once that camber kit goes in!

 

[damthatbeaver]

Lowering a car is fine...but having the nose lower than the rest of the car does not seem to be too practical...I don't want my nose to dive too much...lol...great looking car and a great choice of suspension...

Dam

 

[KooLaid]

Koolaid- Wow, car's looking nice! I like those wheels. I think I saw a picture of them before, but I just realized how nice they look!

Thanks but it drove ROUGH! It was borderline dangerous because coming around corners, I'd hit these bumps and the front end would skip around some. I ended up raising the front back up about 1" and left the rear close to where it is in the picture. Also the bumpsteer from being that low was pretty bad. Raising it that inch also fixed my steering problem.

The low look is nice, but I drive some jacked up roads sometimes so I need the extra ride compliance. I haven't aligned it yet and don't plan to till I get spring rate and ride height down to where I want it. Maybe that's why I got the bad bumpsteer initially?

RedTwin: Car is looking good. Raising the front like you mention would help out the look alot.

From what I was told by SOS and several other HIGHLY experience nsx shops, 1"-1.2" max drop to maintain alignment specs.

 

[whatisreal7]

The NSX factory setup gives is a little bit of rake, so you don't have to go out of your way to lower the front by that much more. It messes with the handling characteristics, not to mention kills your tread life. My recommendation, especially if yours is a daily driver like mine is, is to lower it by no more than 1, 1.25". Less if you have an aftermarket front lip like Wings West. For best handling, get it corner balanced.

 

[LJSB]

So far on my car fender to ground has been dead on in comparison to coilover bracket lock to spring seat lock. This is the number I'm actually setting my height off of but that reference doesn't apply to other people who don't have the same coilovers.

Ok. Do as you wish, but this is the correct way. It is best to do it on the alignment rack which should be level.

I did this (Courtesy of the Dali Racing Site)
Road Clearance:****** Front ** Rear
(Suggested Ride Height) -30mm -46mm

I have Tein RA's.

Regardless of how far you lower I feel the 16mm difference from front to rear gives the car the proper "rake" and this is how try to align my customers cars. Measuring with the book method, is more precise.

 

[psbnsx]

I have JIC coilovers on my 2001 NSX.

Ground to top of fenderwell in front is 24.75 inches, and in rear is 26 inches. No rubbing issues, and alignment specs are maintained. Below 26 inches in the rear I get too much negative camber for my tastes.

Philippe

 

[KooLaid]

Ok. Do as you wish, but this is the correct way. It is best to do it on the alignment rack which should be level.

I did this (Courtesy of the Dali Racing Site)
Road Clearance:****** Front ** Rear
(Suggested Ride Height) -30mm -46mm

I have Tein RA's.

Regardless of how far you lower I feel the 16mm difference from front to rear gives the car the proper "rake" and this is how try to align my customers cars. Measuring with the book method, is more precise.

I looked at the link to the page in the factory service manual. I also have read somewhere, possible DALI, about the 16mm rake stagger. However, I don't see ANYTHING in the factory service manual about staggering it 16mm. Is that just a tried trued and reccommended stagger by dali?

if you look at the raw numbers and put the difference between front and rear by the book, the difference in stagger varies from 33mm to 53mm if you set up the car to stock ride height with coilovers. So according to the book, 16mm is NOT enough rake.

 

[LJSB]

Re: Please post your ride heights with coil overs

I looked at the link to the page in the factory service manual. I also have read somewhere, possible DALI, about the 16mm rake stagger. However, I don't see ANYTHING in the factory service manual about staggering it 16mm. Is that just a tried trued and reccommended stagger by dali?

if you look at the raw numbers and put the difference between front and rear by the book, the difference in stagger varies from 33mm to 53mm if you set up the car to stock ride height with coil overs. So according to the book, 16mm is NOT enough rake.

Nice catch. When I posted I was in a big hurry to a Lions meeting and wasn't thinking straight. The rake should not be 16mm at all. My mistake. SHAME.:redface:
The rake in the book for the 15-16 wheel setup is 53 to 33 mm difference from from to rear. You are right.

The Dali setup range would be 37 to 17mm range of rake. Since you are starting with a entirely adjustable setup, and not the stock one which could have a broader and uncontrolled range, I usually go with 28-30mm of rake, using the manual measuring points, and I adjust the coil overs just low enough to get to the outside(negative) limit of the camber specs in the rear.
At that setting, the front falls in the camber spec as well, but a little more to the center of the range.
This makes the car handle great, to me looks great, gets the front and more important, rear camber in spec which greatly reduces a NSX problem: inside rear tire wear. Get the car in spec on camber, caster and proper toe (especially important on this car the front to rear bias) and the car feels like it is on rails.

At one time,I had my car so lowered the rear was -3.5 camber. Except for when under very hard cornering the rear tire patch is very small at -3.5, kind of like a 3" bicycle tire. Looks cool, and on track day, on a tight course, it might be OK but otherwise it isn't putting the rubber on the road.

IMO setting the rake/ride height as I outlined and getting the rest of the numbers in spec feels much better all around. Try it and I bet you'll agree.

Thanks again for pointing my blunder out.

 

[KooLaid]

Oh no, NOT a blunder at all. I've read that 16mm someplace before on prime several times. So let me get this in the proper order and hopefully I'll be correct. Especially since this is an on going project for me. Back tires are nearly bald and I want it dialed in properly before sticking on new rubber on the back ( @ $300/ each) and alignment.

After spring rates are set as desired
1. Adjust rear ride height to desired height spec ( for me within alignment spec)
2. Dial in the front ride height to either A) dali's 17mm-37mm, or B) Your 28mm-30mm; less than rear ride height.

Correct?

I wish there were more folks like yourself to talk about suspension on prime. Especially since I find suspension setup as fascinating as most people find FI.

 

[LJSB]

Oh no, NOT a blunder at all. I've read that 16mm someplace before on prime several times. So let me get this in the proper order and hopefully I'll be correct. Especially since this is an on going project for me. Back tires are nearly bald and I want it dialed in properly before sticking on new rubber on the back ( @ $300/ each) and alignment.

After spring rates are set as desired
1. Adjust rear ride height to desired height spec ( for me within alignment spec)
2. Dial in the front ride height to either A) dali's 17mm-37mm, or B) Your 28mm-30mm; less than rear ride height.

Correct?

All these numbers are confusing. Let me make it more clear.

The Dali numbers are minus front and rear from the book spec. height. They are a guide.
I use the rear number, -46mm from stock, to get in the ballpark. A place to start.

The 28-30mm number I am using is the amount of rake. The difference in height between the rear to front.

1) Set your rear height so that you can get the camber you want (both sides in the rear should be the same height). Measure and record that number using the control points, center of the toe control arm bolt to level ground.

2)Take that number, subtract 28-30mm and set the front to that height measuring from the center of the lower control arm bolt to level ground.

If the camber settings are acceptable to you then follow the alignment procedure.

It's a bit of fuss and work but you will get good results. Again, I feel ride height with adjustable coil overs should be done on a level surface like a wheel alignment rack and not using fender gap to ground or the top of the tire to fender gap. Use the control points given in the manual.

REDTWINTURBO:
My Car W/Tein RA's : Front: 145mm, Rear: 173mm (28mm rake)
and in spec on all adjustments.

 

[Flexer]

All these numbers are confusing. Let me make it more clear.

The Dali numbers are minus front and rear from the book spec. height. They are a guide.
I use the rear number, -46mm from stock, to get in the ballpark. A place to start.

The 28-30mm number I am using is the amount of rake. The difference in height between the rear to front.

1) Set your rear height so that you can get the camber you want (both sides in the rear should be the same height). Measure and record that number using the control points, center of the toe control arm bolt to level ground.

2)Take that number, subtract 28-30mm and set the front to that height measuring from the center of the lower control arm bolt to level ground.

If the camber settings are acceptable to you then follow the alignment procedure.

It's a bit of fuss and work but you will get good results. Again, I feel ride height with adjustable coil overs should be done on a level surface like a wheel alignment rack and not using fender gap to ground or the top of the tire to fender gap. Use the control points given in the manual.

REDTWINTURBO:
My Car W/Tein RA's : Front: 145mm, Rear: 173mm (28mm rake)
and in spec on all adjustments.

When you say 145 and 173 are you measuring ground to fender?

J. R.

 

[LJSB]

When you say 145 and 173 are you measuring ground to fender?

J. R.

No.:smile:

Rear:center of the toe control arm bolt to level ground.
Front:center of the lower control arm bolt to level ground.

 

[KooLaid]

No.:smile:

Rear:center of the toe control arm bolt to level ground.
Front:center of the lower control arm bolt to level ground.

Let see some pictures!

 

[LJSB]

Let see some pictures!

Here:

 

[sdavies88]

Maybe a dumb question but how do you adjust the front height (center of the lower control arm bolt to level ground) with springs/coilovers. Doesn't that simply adjust chassis height. I have inner tire wear and my mechanic suggests that this measurement is 30 mm lower than spec (some height due to 225/40 16) and he cannot get camber into spec. I think i have original springs that probably need to be replaced but how will that help?

thanks