Hey - what happened to the top-mounted air splitter thingy? (you mentioned something about it being an antenna..) Seems it would be functional, at least all the BMW's have them :biggrin:
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Project: Widebody - 02 Conversion
- Thread starter Jeff@Carbon6
- Start date
Hey,
First off :thumbsup: on an excellent build - I love the uniqueness to it and the fact that you have done all the work yourself!
I have a little question. I am into photoshopping cars and a while ago I did an NSX and continued the roof downwards as you are now planning on doing, except I used a slightly different design for the window. When photoshopping I first let my imagination take me but then try to tone it down and make it realistic - so to my question: How do you plan on getting the rear window to open up with the sides built like that? I thought of the possibility of reshaping the window inbetween but even so that would make access to the engine compartment incredibly difficult, as you would have to reach over the new side additions. If you have a solution for this it would be great to hear it, as it is something that has been on my mind for a while. I came onto this forum to see if I could find an answer and fortunately came accross your build where you are doing exactly what I had thought of.
Again excellent build and any insight you can give me into this would be great
First off :thumbsup: on an excellent build - I love the uniqueness to it and the fact that you have done all the work yourself!
I have a little question. I am into photoshopping cars and a while ago I did an NSX and continued the roof downwards as you are now planning on doing, except I used a slightly different design for the window. When photoshopping I first let my imagination take me but then try to tone it down and make it realistic - so to my question: How do you plan on getting the rear window to open up with the sides built like that? I thought of the possibility of reshaping the window inbetween but even so that would make access to the engine compartment incredibly difficult, as you would have to reach over the new side additions. If you have a solution for this it would be great to hear it, as it is something that has been on my mind for a while. I came onto this forum to see if I could find an answer and fortunately came accross your build where you are doing exactly what I had thought of.
Again excellent build and any insight you can give me into this would be great
- Joined
- 30 September 2010
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- 2
Hey Vroom,
I pm'ed ya, Would you be so kind as to share some of the techniques and methods you used with this pink foam method? Especially how you maintained the symmetry from side to side.
Ive used a scaffolding and spray foam method on my cars interior.
This is a very early picture of the start of the dash and center console in my car. Im going a completely hand made route.
Id be interested in more info on what youve done though! Ive never worked with the pink stuff, but Ive seen it on the rack at Lowes and HD.
Great work!
I pm'ed ya, Would you be so kind as to share some of the techniques and methods you used with this pink foam method? Especially how you maintained the symmetry from side to side.
Ive used a scaffolding and spray foam method on my cars interior.
This is a very early picture of the start of the dash and center console in my car. Im going a completely hand made route.
Id be interested in more info on what youve done though! Ive never worked with the pink stuff, but Ive seen it on the rack at Lowes and HD.
Great work!
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Sorry, been tied up on other project for the last few weeks.
The spray foam you may notice a lot of voids that will keep your shape from being consistent. I would recommend urethane foam sheets. You can pick them of from most composite supply shops. stick with a 2lb or 4lb density. They are easy to shape with a pattern rasp.
You will want to create a ridged shell over the foam shape (fiberglass etc). From that point you can apply a thin (1/4") soft foam scrim and top material. Looks like a very interesting project. good luck.
The spray foam you may notice a lot of voids that will keep your shape from being consistent. I would recommend urethane foam sheets. You can pick them of from most composite supply shops. stick with a 2lb or 4lb density. They are easy to shape with a pattern rasp.
You will want to create a ridged shell over the foam shape (fiberglass etc). From that point you can apply a thin (1/4") soft foam scrim and top material. Looks like a very interesting project. good luck.
Here are some teasers of version 2.1 widebody and aero improvements.
- Joined
- 19 March 2003
- Messages
- 3,442
Jeff
Did you ever figure out a way to exit the air if your using the full bottom rear flat pan you constructed?
Did you ever figure out a way to exit the air if your using the full bottom rear flat pan you constructed?
Basically, yes. The entire underside is sealed with the exception of the upper vertical section of the wheel wells where the air is channeled out through vents or out the back of the car. The turbulent air inside the engine compartment is now drawing out the back nicely. There was not as much volume as I originally thought there was.
- Joined
- 19 March 2003
- Messages
- 3,442
That sounds great Jeff, did you vaccum infuse the composite part or wet lay up? Is it based center foam with carbon layer or full sheet looks like a huge
carbon weave?
Sorry for the question, having a composite hobby makes for high interest.
=g=
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Vacuum RTM with a 2mm core mat and 8 layers of 12K Flat tow of both sides. Alternating from 0 to 45 deg bias. There are a couple areas of solid carbon material (mount points).
- Joined
- 19 March 2003
- Messages
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Sounds good, I may be actually in Wisconin Area in the Sparta area. Would enjoy seeing the car in person. Keep up the nice work.
=g=
- Joined
- 30 September 2010
- Messages
- 2
Thanks,
I may start from scratch on the dash (other than the center console part) Im finding even using the scaffold method its very difficult to keep things symmetrical from side to side using spray foam.
My next project will be the rear of my car. Its a good thing I dont pay attention to the bills on the car! Despite my doing basically everything myself, the bills are still rediculously expensive. LOL
Just putting in the new motor, will run me, 1700 for the motor and trans, then 1500 to flip the internals of the trans, then another 2500 for the ECU and wiring harness, and that just for starters, I havent gotten to replacing the brakes, suspension, placing the rad in the nose, installing the AC and heating systems.... Oh what a list,.... Its a passion though!:biggrin:
Looks very nice as usual Vrooom.
Your rear bumper and diffusor are very similar to what I've been working on (albeit in aluminum as I haven't had the time to learn composites yet).
However, I'm limited by two constraints currently:
1) Ride height and aero overhang. I need a variable ride height system to be able to drive this around town. Otherwise, having a jacked up car with splitter, diffusor, full underbody, deep side skirts, etc is just added weight.
2) Engine power and waste heat. Up until now when just tooling around town I wouldn't have worried about aerodynamics and keeping the engine cool. However, with a planned 600WHP and aero (completely closed undertray), I want to make sure all the waste heat is correctly exhausted. Unfortunately, like the high-HP track-only cars on here, that will mean a beefy radiator up front with an efficient ducted hood (not a generic one), and rear-mounted coolers (engine oil, transmission oil, and intake air). That will require rear trunk venting, side intake ducts on the rear hatch, and potentially rear hatch slots to alleve that hatch pressure unless the trunk venting is adequate.
Aero is a balancing act, and doing it correctly means not piecing it together (otherwise it could be detrimental). It looks from your other posts you understand that and are getting help from a friend knowledgeable in that area. Keep up the good work!
Dave
Your rear bumper and diffusor are very similar to what I've been working on (albeit in aluminum as I haven't had the time to learn composites yet).
However, I'm limited by two constraints currently:
1) Ride height and aero overhang. I need a variable ride height system to be able to drive this around town. Otherwise, having a jacked up car with splitter, diffusor, full underbody, deep side skirts, etc is just added weight.
2) Engine power and waste heat. Up until now when just tooling around town I wouldn't have worried about aerodynamics and keeping the engine cool. However, with a planned 600WHP and aero (completely closed undertray), I want to make sure all the waste heat is correctly exhausted. Unfortunately, like the high-HP track-only cars on here, that will mean a beefy radiator up front with an efficient ducted hood (not a generic one), and rear-mounted coolers (engine oil, transmission oil, and intake air). That will require rear trunk venting, side intake ducts on the rear hatch, and potentially rear hatch slots to alleve that hatch pressure unless the trunk venting is adequate.
Aero is a balancing act, and doing it correctly means not piecing it together (otherwise it could be detrimental). It looks from your other posts you understand that and are getting help from a friend knowledgeable in that area. Keep up the good work!
Dave
Need more pictures! :biggrin:
Jeff, it's been a few years. I'm curious on your impressions on the copper radiator? Your thoughts please?Just picked up the new radiator from the shop. It's a few pounds heavier but without having the spare tire etc. not a big deal. It's a copper/brass dual pass radiator. The guy at the radiator shop told me a copper core will dissipate heat up to 70% more than aluminum and the dual pass design should increase efficiency as well
Here is a picture with it set in place in the car. You can see the new hose connection location on the drivers side that copies the passanger side (uses the same OEM hose). Seems to fit good...
The cold weather here seems to be slowing down the cure time on the fiberglass/fillers. I hope to have more pictures of the bodywork soon.
It's been good for me. The pusher fans will kick on with stop-start city driving sometimes but it seems to cool good. I have an external oil cooler also. I'm sure that helps with engine temp. too.
Hello Vroom, it's forbidden to put a copper radiator on a aluminiul engine.
Believe me, remove it asap.
http://www.google.fr/m/url?client=s...twIwBw&usg=AFQjCNED3FLi4GANVaPTNIyfk_ttKyUfqA
Believe me, remove it asap.
http://www.google.fr/m/url?client=s...twIwBw&usg=AFQjCNED3FLi4GANVaPTNIyfk_ttKyUfqA
Interesting. I never thought of corrosion (galvanic or otherwise) sense the radiator is isolated by the rubber hoses and the coolant is non corrosive. I will do some further research. Thank you.
Hhhmmmm.... not sure how accurate this is since the copper is in powder form and is diluted into the liquid. I have a brass radiator on my DeLorean and so do about 3000 others. No issues for 25 years.
Also is coolant has some anti corrosion properties. I also uses copper radiator rather than replacing my aluminium one to the oem parts. M copper radiator is easier to fix whereas the oem one has plastic top and bottom cover. Been driving it for more than 5 years and observe no problem yet.
Thanks for your feedback. Copper has better cooling properties than aluminum. Size being equal, it just weighs more. I'm looking into going copper myself.
Most antifreeze formulations include corrosion inhibiting compounds. I'll have to check if the Honda "blue" coolant has these in place. I'd be surprised if it didn't.
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