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Rear control arm (toe link) removal

J

JD Cross

Legendary Member
Joined
8 July 2002
Messages
2,492
I'm removing my pass side rear control arm (toe link) as the bushing is sloppy.
I've got the bolt out of the beam at the bushing end and have the pin and nut off the other end.
The arm is still stuck in place.

Do I hammer on the bolt at the ball joint to drive it out of the knuckle?
Use a big pry bar on the bushing end of the arm to free it from the beam?
 
Hi JD,

If you are replacing the Toe Link, you can use a "pickle fork to remove it. This will destroy the ball joint, so only do this if you are replacing the ball joint. Are you replacing the ball joint, or the inner bushing only? If it is only the bushing do it on the car without removing the ball joint. The alternative to this in order to separate the ball joint is to have the proper ball joint puller. IF you choose to separate the ball joint MAKE SURE when you use the puller you install the nut back on the ball joint threads BEFORE pressing it out with the tool, this will add strength to the threaded end of the ball joint so it does not get crushed in the process and it will make life way better;).

My $.02

Regards,
LarryB
 
Last edited:
Larry Bastanza said:
Hi JD, If you are replacing the Toe Link, you can use a "pickle fork to remove it. This will destroy the ball joint, so only do this if you are replacing the ball joint. Are you replacing the ball joint, or the inner bushing only? If it is only the bushing do it on the car without removing the ball joint. The alternative to this in order to separate the ball joint is to have the proper ball joint puller. IF you choose to separate the ball joint MAKE SURE when you use the puller you install the nut back on the ball joint threads BEFORE pressing it out with the tool, this will add strength to the threaded end of the ball joint so it does not get crushed in the process and it will make life way better;).
My $.02 Regards, LarryB
Click to expand...

Larry
I just need to remove the bushing end of the toe arm and replace it with a new segment.
I'll try to remove the bushing end and leave the ball joint end attached.
If I clearly mark where the old bushing end meets the middle section will that maintain the alignment?
 
Last edited:
Certainly leave the ball joint alone then. I typically measure the length of the arm, then replace the bushing end and set the length.

LMK if you have any questions.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Apparently the bushing end arm Part # 52342-SL0-000 is on back order with no ETA.
Is it possible to have the bushing replaced on the exiting arm?
 
JD Cross said:
Apparently the bushing end arm Part # 52342-SL0-000 is on back order with no ETA.
Is it possible to have the bushing replaced on the exiting arm?
Click to expand...

Did you determine that from your local dealer or did you try one of the on-line vendors such as Delray Acura? I have had the local dealer advise of long delivery on parts and was able to source the part from a US on-line vendor with quick delivery. Just something to check.
 
Old Guy said:
Did you determine that from your local dealer or did you try one of the on-line vendors such as Delray Acura? I have had the local dealer advise of long delivery on parts and was able to source the part from a US on-line vendor with quick delivery. Just something to check.
Click to expand...

Both my Vancouver dealer and Lynwood Acura in WA.
 
Indeed unfortunate. I hate to see an NSX out of service as prime driving weather approaches, although perhaps less of an issue for you on the lower mainland.

Perhaps give these guys a call. They don't list the toe link; but, if you go to their homepage you will see that they may be able to fabricate the joint. It probably wouldn't be cheap; but, at least you might have the part sooner than if it has to be sourced from Japan with no expected arrival date.

http://shop.rareparts.com/smtp/shop...CURA&imodel=0004|NSX&iproduct=0040|SUSPENSION, SPRINGS & COMPONENTS

You could also try A. S. Motorsport. The part might be available in Europe.

http://as-motorsport.com/site/en/catalog-c-6/nsx-c-1/
 
Last edited:
Ask the dealer to put the part on CBO "Critical Back Order". They will require your VIN to do it. Even if the part is in Japan, should be 2 weeks max;)
 
JD Cross said:
Apparently the bushing end arm Part # 52342-SL0-000 is on back order with no ETA.
Is it possible to have the bushing replaced on the exiting arm?
Click to expand...
JD .. I believe I have 2 of these which I bought used from KHRANT on Prime. I think one might be for the left side and one for the right but they both look the same to me. Bushings look pretty ridgid to me. I acquired them because the adjustment nut is 'frozen' on mine and I planning to take the whole link out and wasn't sure if I'd need a spare (or 2 if the left side nut freezes too). Loaning you one might not be what you're after .. and you may not want a used one either. Just thought I'd offer.
 
Ian

Thanks for the offer.
I'm selling my NSX and a PPI at my dealer identified a sloppy bushing on the pass side toe arm.
I told the buyer I would make the repair, so I really need a new part.
I've ordered a new part with a CBO per Larry's suggestion.
 
I believe both sides are the same, I do not see a right/left call out in the parts catalog.
 
For future reference this is the correct tool to use for ball joint removals. It will not damage the ball joint. This too cost $25 at Advance Auto
attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php


- - - Updated - - -

I'm looking at having to replace the bushings in my links too. Here is another source for toe links. Carbon6Composites



- - - Updated - - -

Carbon 6 Composites Toe Link. Sold in pairs for $299.
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Larry's suggestion on a critical back order worked.
The new toe arm part will be here in two weeks.
 
JD Cross said:
Larry's suggestion on a critical back order worked.
The new toe arm part will be here in two weeks.
Click to expand...

Does the Critical Back Order result in an extra cost from the dealer?
 
Old Guy said:
Does the Critical Back Order result in an extra cost from the dealer?
Click to expand...

A very good question which the parts guy didn't bring up so I didn't ask.
If it costs more (and I would expect it would) I'll try telling the parts guy he should have told me etc. etc.
Think that will work?

However the plot has thickened.

Today I wanted to make sure the threads in the rear beam were okay.
I put in a new OEM toe arm bolt but unfortunately the threads in the beam gave way well before I reached the factory torque setting.
Now I have a stripped beam hole, if you'll excuse the expression.

A Timesert is needed.

Unfortunately there is a pesky tab that the bolt goes through before going through the toe arm bushing and on into the beam.
So it would appear the hole in that tab would have to be drilled out to allow a larger drill to access the rear beam hole.
Then the hole it the tab has to be made smaller.

Time to watch hockey
 
Last edited:
Old Guy said:
Does the Critical Back Order result in an extra cost from the dealer?
Click to expand...

No, when you supply a VIN, this indicates the vehicle is in the shop awaiting repairs, so shipment from the source(in this case Japan) is expedited:). It does not change the shipping cost, just means they work towards immediate shipment due to a car being on hold;).......
 
nsxspdfreak said:
How much is the single toe link costing you?
Click to expand...

Approx $279 CDN.
The price quoted by a US dealer was $202 USD or about $250 CDN.
I paid more for the convenience of having it ordered by my dealer instead of ordering in the US and having it shipped etc.

The carbon 6 set looks like great value compared to OEM.
if I was going to do both sides I'd have ordered the Carbon 6
 
Last edited:
JD Cross said:
Approx $279 CDN.
The price quoted by a US dealer was $202 USD or about $250 CDN.
I paid more for the convenience of having it ordered by my dealer instead of ordering in the US and having it shipped etc.

The carbon 6 set looks like great value compared to OEM.
if I was going to do both sides I'd have ordered the Carbon 6
Click to expand...

Only the right side is beginning to show signs if wear on my car. I probably would have not noticed it if I hadn't had to remove it for the driveshaft rebuild. I'll probably run with it a bit longer and then go for the Carbon6 links. It will be interesting to see how long it takes to get them. Here is another site for sourcing parts directly from Japan. http://jp-carparts.com/
 

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