The only thing you can drive faster than me currently is a skateboard. Looking forward to your triumphant return
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The Pursuit of Personalizing Perfection - Track Addict's build thread
- Thread starter Track Addict
- Start date
The only thing you can drive faster than me currently is a skateboard. Looking forward to your triumphant return
That’s so true.
It’s been so long since I’ve driven my NSX you’re probably gonna laugh at me while you and Pam zoom by.
If I make it out to CVR when I get back I expect both of y’all to at least say hello.
Miss you @Valhalla
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So April first has come and gone, I’m sure most of you guys (and girls) heard about the price hike on all older Honda parts.
I spent FAR too much, yet somehow I feel like I still do enough.
but I did get some items that I have been eyeing for some time including;
-front door sash set
-door handles
-nav pod
I completely forgot to purchase some oddball parts I need like turn signal stalk and light dimmer switch...I guess we will see how much the price hike costs now.
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I spent FAR too much, yet somehow I feel like I still do enough.
but I did get some items that I have been eyeing for some time including;
-front door sash set
-door handles
-nav pod
I completely forgot to purchase some oddball parts I need like turn signal stalk and light dimmer switch...I guess we will see how much the price hike costs now.
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I’ve been pondering something regarding my build and I’d rather like some opinions on it (for those of you who actually have read my thread)
I’m toying with the idea of removing AC. Here’s why;
I’ve spent OODLES of money for weight reduction and keeping AC just seems like an obvious place to lose ~40-50lbs (very nice reduction in weight)
Pros to losing AC:
-less weight (duh), can relocate my alternator from the top of the engine (lower CoG), don’t have to worry about trying to find R12 somewhere.
Cons to losing AC:
-less “streetcar” more “racecar” which is a vague line I’m trying very hard to straddle. My wife, or anyone else for that matter, will probably never want to ride in the NSX without AC (especially in Japanese Summer)
Realistically I’ve crossed the “streetcar” line a bit with my twin carbon clutch and OSG LSD, but AC is a creature comfort I have really enjoyed and become accustomed to.
Thoughts?
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I’m toying with the idea of removing AC. Here’s why;
I’ve spent OODLES of money for weight reduction and keeping AC just seems like an obvious place to lose ~40-50lbs (very nice reduction in weight)
Pros to losing AC:
-less weight (duh), can relocate my alternator from the top of the engine (lower CoG), don’t have to worry about trying to find R12 somewhere.
Cons to losing AC:
-less “streetcar” more “racecar” which is a vague line I’m trying very hard to straddle. My wife, or anyone else for that matter, will probably never want to ride in the NSX without AC (especially in Japanese Summer)
Realistically I’ve crossed the “streetcar” line a bit with my twin carbon clutch and OSG LSD, but AC is a creature comfort I have really enjoyed and become accustomed to.
Thoughts?
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I can't imagine not having A/C in the summer in Japan. I thought the summer temps & humidity were bad here but over there it's a whole different level. I think removing it would be a big mistake, even for a more "racecar" oriented build.
I walked right up to the edge of the cliff on this and peered over the edge.
I decided to keep my A/C. Summers in Colorado have at least a week at or above 100F these days (thanks global warming). The Streetcar <---> Racecar balance is such a difficult one to walk- I totally understand where you are coming from. That's why I ultimately chose the S Zero spec as my guiding light. I'd keep the A/C, unless this is a dedicated track car.
I walked right up to the edge of the cliff on this and peered over the edge.
I am SO glad that someone else understand this streetcar struggle hahaha.
Yeah I’ll probably keep AC then...at least as long as I can keep it operational. I’ll have to have everything updated before shipping the car.
Apparently fixing AC components here in Japan is CRAZY expensive. Probably because no one generally keeps a car long enough for AC to go out haha.
I love your Imola build BTW my car is definitely more “track” oriented, but I hope it turns out half as clean as your car.
Cheers bud
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It’s true.
Like I said it has been a mulling around in my head. Seems silly on its face to go through the hoops that I’m currently going through when an “easier” solution exists.
But “streetcar” builds aren’t easy lol
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Apparently fixing AC systems in Japan is absurdly expensive.
RFY doesn’t have AC on his NSX (or S2000 for that matter) and when I asked him about it he simply said “I don’t drive in the daytime during summer” And laughed
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Speaking of lightweight parts and stupid, stupid financial decisions.
I have been speaking with Christian over at ATR and have long been interested in his carbon hatch frame.
Trouble for me was that he was VERY open when I discussed any shortcomings with utilizing this piece. At around 250kmph the frame doesn’t hold its shape and bows out, acting like a GIANT air brake.
250kph is roughly 155mph, and while there’s basically ZERO chance of me ever reaching speeds that high...ever I simply didn’t want to have the possibility of the frame and lexan deform so much.
So after about a year of bugging him to make changes to his design he finally agreed and I put in a special request to have it constructed of carbon Kevlar to further help prevent this issue at the sacrifice of being SLIGHTLY heavier.
Looky lookie!
Before anyone gets excited, this piece will get painted to hide the carbon AND protect it.
Can’t wait to see it in person!
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I have been speaking with Christian over at ATR and have long been interested in his carbon hatch frame.
Trouble for me was that he was VERY open when I discussed any shortcomings with utilizing this piece. At around 250kmph the frame doesn’t hold its shape and bows out, acting like a GIANT air brake.
250kph is roughly 155mph, and while there’s basically ZERO chance of me ever reaching speeds that high...ever I simply didn’t want to have the possibility of the frame and lexan deform so much.
So after about a year of bugging him to make changes to his design he finally agreed and I put in a special request to have it constructed of carbon Kevlar to further help prevent this issue at the sacrifice of being SLIGHTLY heavier.
Looky lookie!
Before anyone gets excited, this piece will get painted to hide the carbon AND protect it.
Can’t wait to see it in person!
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How much did the frame cost? Christian doesn't post any prices on his page.
Frame was €1520 with shipping, except now there is some “surprise” with shipping that seems like he is gonna try to get more from me.
So not sure what end cost to me will be.
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Update:
Apparently the cost he quoted me for the frame was exactly the same as the standard carbon piece, which is no longer accurate for the carbon Kevlar according to Christian.
He was nice enough to honor the quoted price but as a warning the Kevlar version will be more expensive than the standard version.
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Just spoke with Tim over at Pole2Flag and decided now was the time to finally rid myself of that awful and archaic ABS.
Just in time for prototype parts fresh off the mill!
These carbon parts are cutting edge, I’ve never seen threaded dry carbon before!!!
Can’t wait to install and check these out in person
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Just in time for prototype parts fresh off the mill!
These carbon parts are cutting edge, I’ve never seen threaded dry carbon before!!!
Can’t wait to install and check these out in person
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More parts!
Been spending WAY too much recently, but I have to say it’s nearing its end (at least with this company)
Toda adjustable Cam gears and VTEC solenoid block off plates.
Just trying to update more as new stuff comes in.
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Been spending WAY too much recently, but I have to say it’s nearing its end (at least with this company)
Toda adjustable Cam gears and VTEC solenoid block off plates.
Just trying to update more as new stuff comes in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I can’t tell the NSX community enough how much everyone means to me.
I just got back from my trip to the US. I spent roughly a month in the states. During that time some things definitely changed with my car while I had the opportunity.
I needed my car. I needed to wrench. I needed to drive.
It was one of the only things on my mind during my arduous trip; to simply start my car.
I know it sounds silly, but after nearly two years of being away and it being in my best friend’s care, the thought of hearing my car start filled my heart with joy.
It did not disappoint.
I changed the oil since it had been sitting in the engine since I had left for Tokyo.
Once I had finished taking the car out for it’s return voyage I knew I needed to get it ready for NSXPO in Portland.
First on my list was to get my replacement JRZ RS Pro IIIs in. These have been waiting for me for some time…over a year since the last time I rebuilt my race spec JRZs the North American HQ told me that they would likely never be able to service them again.
It’s only money right?
Assembly was very straightforward and the craftsmanship superb. I decided not to change my springs for the new setup and reuse my old Swifts at NA1R spec 8kg/cm front and 6kg/cm and had the coilovers valves accordingly.
I’m glad I did, the ride was smooth, responsive, and very comfortable…even though I had set the shocks up according to the “track” setting from JRZ.
One big bonus of these (over my old JRZs) is the separate high and low speed compression that means lots of fun, time, and effort to dial it in further once I have more time.
I can’t speak highly enough about the suspension and how it performed on the long drive and on Oregon Raceway Park during the NSXpo track event.
I just got back from my trip to the US. I spent roughly a month in the states. During that time some things definitely changed with my car while I had the opportunity.
I needed my car. I needed to wrench. I needed to drive.
It was one of the only things on my mind during my arduous trip; to simply start my car.
I know it sounds silly, but after nearly two years of being away and it being in my best friend’s care, the thought of hearing my car start filled my heart with joy.
It did not disappoint.
I changed the oil since it had been sitting in the engine since I had left for Tokyo.
Once I had finished taking the car out for it’s return voyage I knew I needed to get it ready for NSXPO in Portland.
First on my list was to get my replacement JRZ RS Pro IIIs in. These have been waiting for me for some time…over a year since the last time I rebuilt my race spec JRZs the North American HQ told me that they would likely never be able to service them again.
It’s only money right?
Assembly was very straightforward and the craftsmanship superb. I decided not to change my springs for the new setup and reuse my old Swifts at NA1R spec 8kg/cm front and 6kg/cm and had the coilovers valves accordingly.
I’m glad I did, the ride was smooth, responsive, and very comfortable…even though I had set the shocks up according to the “track” setting from JRZ.
One big bonus of these (over my old JRZs) is the separate high and low speed compression that means lots of fun, time, and effort to dial it in further once I have more time.
I can’t speak highly enough about the suspension and how it performed on the long drive and on Oregon Raceway Park during the NSXpo track event.
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After installation I took the car to get aligned at a new shop near me in Santa Ana. AHG Motorsports, very cool guys with a passion for Honda’s and a very swanky alignment rack. Did a great job and didn’t cost a fortune.
Another huge mod for me was the addition of the prototype LHD NA1R shift lever from MITA Motorsports.
Seems like so much has happened to the car and now that I am finally taking the time to post it all I am having trouble quantifying everything.
Marc Perez at MITA asked me to install the prototype NA1R lever he has been working on. Being close to Marc of course I agreed and got to work as soon as I could once I was stateside.
While I wasn’t allowed for privacy reasons to post pictures of the printed lever I will say the quality was very good and it amazes me how far 3D printing has come in the short time the technology has been around.
I haven’t driven an actual NSX-R (NA1 or otherwise) so I can’t compare the lever to Honda’s race-going version, BUT I will say that the shorter lever coupled with the tiny NA1R shift knob made for an incredible difference in driving experience and feel.
The MITA piece installed same as factory with no issues Marc did a great job getting the piece exactly like the factory lever (aside from being about 1/3 shorter in overall length)
Shifts are crips, responsive, smooth, and SHORT.
Having not driven my NSX for some time really left me excited to do less work and more driving, but this install was fast, easy, and worth the effort.
Plus! I saved a good amount of weight compared to the Type S/Zanardi shift knob (and accompanying lever) I had previously in the car.
Here’s what it looks like in the car;
Weight comparison:
Type S Knob - 267g
NA1R Knob - 171g
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Seems like so much has happened to the car and now that I am finally taking the time to post it all I am having trouble quantifying everything.
Marc Perez at MITA asked me to install the prototype NA1R lever he has been working on. Being close to Marc of course I agreed and got to work as soon as I could once I was stateside.
While I wasn’t allowed for privacy reasons to post pictures of the printed lever I will say the quality was very good and it amazes me how far 3D printing has come in the short time the technology has been around.
I haven’t driven an actual NSX-R (NA1 or otherwise) so I can’t compare the lever to Honda’s race-going version, BUT I will say that the shorter lever coupled with the tiny NA1R shift knob made for an incredible difference in driving experience and feel.
The MITA piece installed same as factory with no issues Marc did a great job getting the piece exactly like the factory lever (aside from being about 1/3 shorter in overall length)
Shifts are crips, responsive, smooth, and SHORT.
Having not driven my NSX for some time really left me excited to do less work and more driving, but this install was fast, easy, and worth the effort.
Plus! I saved a good amount of weight compared to the Type S/Zanardi shift knob (and accompanying lever) I had previously in the car.
Here’s what it looks like in the car;
Weight comparison:
Type S Knob - 267g
NA1R Knob - 171g
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What's the part# for the NA1-R knob? Only the shit lever is Mita or is both the knob and lever Mita?
54102-SL0-J01
AFAIK you will need to order from a Japanese dealer (or online source that can get parts from Honda Japan)
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Mocked up my ITBs to a spare block to measure for an airbox. I couldn’t resist but take a picture.
So sexy I hope you all like it as much as I do.
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So sexy I hope you all like it as much as I do.
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One of the wonderful things of such a small community is the ability to know some really incredible fabricators.
I happen to be good friends with Chris from Foundry3 and on the rare occasion he isn’t too busy building other cool stuff, he listens to me grip about new stuff he SHOULD build.
This new product - Foundry3 Titanium upper chassis bar was worth haggling him for almost a year.
The NSX chassis is one of the best in the world, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be better. Thanks to this high quality titanium front upper bar from Foundry3 the NSX is more crisp and responsive during high speed maneuvers.
.
。
There is no substitute for quality. Foundry 3 has set the bar high. ^____^
.
Find out more here;
https://www.foundry3studios.com/pro...1PNde3vf2-CFV1_40ISH-rHDAK4pkcJUtT2_MMiLkdCxA
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I happen to be good friends with Chris from Foundry3 and on the rare occasion he isn’t too busy building other cool stuff, he listens to me grip about new stuff he SHOULD build.
This new product - Foundry3 Titanium upper chassis bar was worth haggling him for almost a year.
The NSX chassis is one of the best in the world, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be better. Thanks to this high quality titanium front upper bar from Foundry3 the NSX is more crisp and responsive during high speed maneuvers.
.
。
There is no substitute for quality. Foundry 3 has set the bar high. ^____^
.
Find out more here;
https://www.foundry3studios.com/pro...1PNde3vf2-CFV1_40ISH-rHDAK4pkcJUtT2_MMiLkdCxA
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On top of everything I was doing while I was in the states I managed to get started on a huge pet project I’ve had in mind for years
After countless hours of research, measurements, and quotes with manufacturers
I made the call; I bought all titanium hardware to replace the heavy, corroded steel.
I started with the largest bolts first and seeing the weight of the Ti hardware was half of OEM I got very excited.
I didn’t have enough time to finish swapping everything over before I had to come back to Japan. I am so bummed I ran out of time!
Can’t wait to finish this arduous task.
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After countless hours of research, measurements, and quotes with manufacturers
I made the call; I bought all titanium hardware to replace the heavy, corroded steel.
I started with the largest bolts first and seeing the weight of the Ti hardware was half of OEM I got very excited.
I didn’t have enough time to finish swapping everything over before I had to come back to Japan. I am so bummed I ran out of time!
Can’t wait to finish this arduous task.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You're nuts for going balls out with the Toda ITB. Good stuff man. Since you live in Japan now, will it just sit til you can get back to wrench on it? I'm going to have to give that alignment shop in Santa Ana a try! I like how their plates only touch the lug nuts... Very nifty!
