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Timing belt tensioner

Joined
10 June 2001
Messages
221
Location
Fairfield,CA
I am replacing my TB and WP and want to replace the belt tensioner. When it go to unscrew it starts unthreading then stops hard. Is there a special way of removing the bolt? I can't find anything in the manual on removing it or installing it. Do you need to remove the oil pump?

Thanks
 
No special way, it is just a long bolt. No need to remove the oil pump..
 
Thanks for the Reply Larry,
I tried to remove it again this evening, I can unthread it about 1 turn and it binds up hard. It is acting like it has galled threads. I am not sure of how to proceed at this point. I might have to cut the bolt to get the tensioner pulley out of the way and remove the oil pump to drill out the stuck bolt or buy a new pump. Thanks agian
 
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Thanks for the Reply Larry,
I tried to remove it again this evening, I can unthread it about 1 turn and it binds up hard. It is acting like it has galled threads. I am not sure of how to proceed at this point. I might have to cut the bolt to get the tensioner pulley out of the way and remove the oil pump to drill out the stuck bolt or buy a new pump. Thanks agian

Sounds like ether a very strong thread lock or a busted thread, just proceed unscrewing it.
As it should just thread out, albeit with a certain amount of resistance if locitite was used before.

IF the thread is damaged then you'd need the pull the pump that would require removing,
forward exhaust header on a 3.2 or a X with headers or on a stock 3.0 the flex pipe.
Oil pan, strainer pickup and then the pump housing.

Don't forget to get o-rings, seals & crush washers when pulling the pump to freshen it up.
 
Sorry to hear what you're going through....

It took me a good 45 minutes to set the tension on my TB with the engine out of the car. Who in their right mind would use threadlock on the TB tensioner bolt?

Maybe you could put a little heat on the top of the oil pump housing to help remove it? The aluminum nub on the inside of the housing is pretty beefy for those female threads. If you were doing this out of the car you could probably chase the threads with a tap later to make sure they were OK.

However, it sounds like the threads were boogered up when the last person did the TB change and they wanted to make sure the bolt wouldn't loosen... until the next person had to deal with it. Sorry. That pulley bolt/threads are critical to the engine. Maybe you can get a boroscope around there to do a thorough inspection after it is removed?

Dave
 
You might use what we use on turbine engines sometimes.
"Aero-Kroil", remove the bolt a few threads so the liquid can enter more easily and drown it with Kroil and wait a few hours.
A little carefully placed heat and then try again.
Sometimes removing it like you're running a tap, go out a few threads and back in a few to keep the threads on the bolt clear.
Be patient. It could get time consuming and expensive if you get impatient and strip or break the bolt or strip the hole I.D.

Cheers
nigel
 
NorCalwhite - The pump/housing enroute to you is clean, but I recommend going through it again with some brake cleaner and compressed air. The back gear housing is only hand-tight, and as mentioned previously, you'll need a new crush washer for the relief valve bolt. I don't remember un-torqueing the oil pump discharge galley bolt so you may just want to ensure it is torqued.

When reassembling, watch out and make sure the pivot point of the tensioner is seated on the little nub before torqueing the tensioner bolt down. That is what happened in this thread:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/103052-oil-leaking-on-new-NSX-(-HELP!!!!-PICS/page2?

When setting the tension on my TB, I followed Kaz's posts here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/45564-DIY-Timing-Belt-Question/page3

Personally, I stayed with the OEM TB since the PowerEnterprise's seemed to gunk up my pulleys and cam gears. It took me a long time to clean each cam gear tooth.... I also used a new OEM tensioner, and didn't feel the need for the locking tensioner:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/190113-SOS-tensioner-lock?highlight=TB+tension

Also, I recommend liberally applying assembly lube to the oil pump gear (and relief valve) to help ensure good suction when priming after the rebuild. I unplugged my fuel pump and removed the spark plugs while priming the engine with 10-15 second bursts with the starter. When I saw a little oil pressure on my aftermarket gauge, I inserted the plugs and was ready to start.

Sorry if you already know this stuff. It wouldn't be a good thing to try to prime and circulate oil with compression in the engine IMO. I forget exactly how long it took me before I saw oil pressure - maybe a good minute.

Good luck,

Dave
 
I thought I would update the thread about my TB and WP change. I had to remove the tensioner to repair or replace the oil pump. So I decided to try to unthread it, I it out about 6 threads, I was using my 1/2 breaker bar, when it broke. I thought the aluminum threads would have just stripped out. I found out Mac Attack was selling his oil pump, so I bought it. I was already all cleaned up, he had provide the specs for any wear, all within spec. I had more work to do and parts to order. I also decided to replace some of the coolant hoses so I ordered those also. I had some issues with the parts, I provided the local Acura dealer with my list of parts, which I doubled check, some parts took longer to come in so I waited til they all showed up. It took 2 weeks to get those parts. During that time I decided to clean up the valve covers and then decided to re-paint them along with the manifold cover. I decided to go with a gloss finish and no the wrinkle finish, I thought the wrinkle finish was to hard to keep clean. I had them powder coated red, I think they look clean, much better than the stained black wrinkle.
I got the oil pump installed with new seals, then got the timing belt installed, that was a pain, I read Gary Kentosh's write up for timing belt water pump diy, he had said he used a large paper clip to hold the belt on the gears, I have some small cushioned clamps I use in wood working. They worked great to keep the belt on the gears, I went from gear to gear by rotating the gear slightly about a half a tooth the get the belt on and put a clamp on and go the next one it went I though it pretty quick, adjusted the tensioner. Before I rotated the crank I doubled check the gear alignments,everything looked good, I made up a pointer for the crank pulley since I had not installed the plastic cover yet, I rotated to the blue mark and I saw that there was some slack in the belt between the exhaust and intake pulley of the rear bank so I just rotated the exhaust pulley to tighten up the belt and then loosened the tensioner bolt, it took the extra slack then torqued it down to spec. All the marks were lining up the belt is nice and tight. I decided to check the valve adjustment. I found all the intakes at .001 " to .002" all the exhaust were at .007", I don't no why the intakes were adjusted to such a small lash, the engine had been running fine, no issues. I decided to adjust them to .004" and split the difference. Any way got everything back on put new coolant in as per the manual put in the oil, the new coolant is blue I was expecting green any way it was time to see if I did it correctly, I was very nervous, worried I missed something, was the oil pump going the work?.
It turned over for about 5 to 6 seconds and fired up, oil pressured came up I let the car idle with the heater on the get the coolant flowing, I did replace the the thermostat, the old one , the rubber seat had designated. I followed the manual the bleeding the coolant system and reopened the thermo bleeder and more did come out, I added more coolant. I then took my car for drive. I t did not over heat, I haven't found any oil leaks. So I quite happy and relieved that I have finished my timing belt change out. I have replaced the timing belt in others cars I have owned with out any issues so I thought this one would be ok too. Except for the broken bolt it went smoothly, I wanted to take my time. I spent extra time in cleaning parts, bolts making sure not to lose anything. Thanks for the help and words of support. Happy New Year
 
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Did you find any loctite on the bolt in the original pump? Can you post a pic of that?

I am wondering if it was overtightened. Setting is 31 ft.lbs

Glad you are back and running;).

Regards,
LarryB
 
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