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Water coming into cabin

Joined
22 February 2015
Messages
174
Hey guys,

So my car was filthy so took it to a touch free car wash just to spray some of the dirt/dust off, while in the car wash i noticed that water enters the car on both sides from the windows right where the window meets the A-pillar. Has anyone else experienced this? On both sides that rubber part is torn, I'm sure that might be the cause but it also comes in from the top of the door on the passengers side, I guess I need to replace the entire rubber seal that goes around the door?? Has anyone ever done it or does anyone have part numbers/pricing on this? Any recommendations on the best/cheapest place to order them from? Any help would be appreciated.

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You cannot replace just the rubber unfortunately. You have to buy the whole new parts. But if you check the wiki there is a fix for it. But from the sound of the fix, it didn't come out oem. It just merely bonds the rubber together with with liquid rubber so the colors are off match.
 
You cannot replace just the rubber unfortunately. You have to buy the whole new parts. But if you check the wiki there is a fix for it. But from the sound of the fix, it didn't come out oem. It just merely bonds the rubber together with with liquid rubber so the colors are off match.

No opposed to buying the new part, any idea what the cost is? Or the actual part number? Is there somewhere I can look up these various part numbers?


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Have you gotten your windows adjusted anytime recently? It may be a cheaper fix that solves the actual problem of water getting in.

Nope never got my windows adjusted, don't even know how to do it, I'm a new owner and haven't officially introduced myself here, plan and doing that soon and hopefully you guys might know the original owner that can tell me what exactly he's had done to the car.


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No opposed to buying the new part, any idea what the cost is? Or the actual part number? Is there somewhere I can look up these various part numbers?


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The best and most fair priced vendor currently for these almost discontinued parts is Mark, @ speedypartsjapan
Go to the nsxshop.com ,he has the absolute best prices on all oem parts.
 
Last edited:
The best and most fair priced vendor currently for these almost discontinued parts is Mark, @ speedypartsjapan
Go to nsx shop.com ,he has the absolute best prices on all oem parts.

Thanks!! Gonna check it out


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No opposed to buying the new part, any idea what the cost is? Or the actual part number? Is there somewhere I can look up these various part numbers?


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Parts # 8 and 19 on the following link. As Jinks notes, you can't get just the little rubber boot, you have to get the whole triangular piece at the front. Other discount parts vendors will have the same part. I have used Delray a couple of times in the past and have no complaints.

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-...y-air-conditioning-cat/front-door-window-scat

That split in the rubber boot is really common; but, it is not the cause of water leaking into the car. You can do a cosmetic fix using some plasti dip (not the spray can version) or some Sugru to fill in the split part of the boot.
 
Nope never got my windows adjusted, don't even know how to do it, I'm a new owner and haven't officially introduced myself here, plan and doing that soon and hopefully you guys might know the original owner that can tell me what exactly he's had done to the car.


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Adjusting the windows is not for fools, you can screw things up if you are ham fisted and impatient. The first thing you need to do is get a copy of the service manual that applies to your car. There is a link to downloadable versions of the shop manual in the red tool bar at the top of the NSX Prime page titled shop manuals. The shop manual will set out the process for adjusting the glass.

Before you do that, get some silicon grease and smear it along the body opening door gasket in the area where it should contact the door glass. Open and close the door. You should have a nice grease line along the front and top edge of the glass. Absence of a nice even grease contact line on the glass indicates that the glass may need adjustment or you may need a new gasket (more $ and hassle - especially if you have a T roof).

Full disclosure - I can get a little water entering at the top front corner of the glass if I get careless with my pressure washer. Rather than mess around with the door glass I make sure that I keep the pressure washer nozzle back about 2 ft when I am doing the initial wet down and rinsing the suds off the car. That fixed the water ingress problem.

If your car is a T roof, you need to purchase some Shin Etsu grease and start massaging it into the A and B pillar gaskets and the gaskets on the roof panel to preserve that rubber. You do not want to be replacing those gaskets because they are mind buggeringly expensive to buy and install - makes getting you timing belt and water pump done look like a cake walk!
 
Last edited:
Adjusting the windows is not for fools, you can screw things up if you are ham fisted and impatient. The first thing you need to do is get a copy of the service manual that applies to your car. There is a link to downloadable versions of the shop manual in the red tool bar at the top of the NSX Prime page titled shop manuals. The shop manual will set out the process for adjusting the glass.

Before you do that, get some silicon grease and smear it along the body opening door gasket in the area where it should contact the door glass. Open and close the door. You should have a nice grease line along the front and top edge of the glass. Absence of a nice even grease contact line on the glass indicates that the glass may need adjustment or you may need a new gasket (more $ and hassle - especially if you have a T roof).

Full disclosure - I can get a little water entering at the top front corner of the glass if I get careless with my pressure washer. Rather than mess around with the door glass I make sure that I keep the pressure washer nozzle back about 2 ft when I am doing the initial wet down and rinsing the suds off the car. That fixed the water ingress problem.

If your car is a T roof, you need to purchase some Shin Etsu grease and start massaging it into the A and B pillar gaskets and the gaskets on the roof panel to preserve that rubber. You do not want to be replacing those gaskets because they are mind buggeringly expensive to buy and install - makes getting you timing belt and water pump done look like a cake walk!

Appreciate the input, if the torn piece of rubber isn't the cause (I don't think it is), then it's the rubber gaskets around the door, they look to be in good shape so I'm not sure why they would leak, I'm worried that if I do get caught in the rain I'd rather not have water flowing into the car so I'd like to hex that problem. I don't have a targa. Window adjustments maybe I can take it to a certified nsx tech to check that out I'd hate to screw it up, but is it hard to replace the gaskets on the non-targa top?


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If the gaskets do not look deformed or hard, then it is probably a glass adjustment. The glass adjustment probably will not be cheap because the door liners have to come off and it is kind of a fiddly time consuming process if done right. It does not take any special tools (just the basic stuff) or super technical knowledge and if you are prepared to read the service manual and don't get frustrated (its one of those adjust, test fit, adjust test fit, adjust .... things) it is doable.

The up side is that if you screw it up, I don't think you will damage anything. You just risk finding out that after your adjustments it leaks more water or you have more wind noise which is when the frustration sets in.
 
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From your other posts, you seem to have 91/92 model.
If this is the case, before buying anything, please check the spec of your front sash.

Although there is only one parts no. available for the front sash, there are two different specs on our NSX.
If you lower the door glass, you can easily tell the difference.


And what it makes even worse is the fact that Honda changed the design of the upper weatherstrip (the rubber that the glass makes contact) and the modified version is only compatible with the later spec front sash.
If you order the upper weatherstrip now, even if you use the old parts no, you will only get the modified later version.

So, if you have the combination of [old spec front sash + later spec upper weatherstrip] = 100% guaranteed wind noise and water into the cabin from the very position you mentioned.

Therefore, even if you replace the weatherstrip now, if your front sash is of old spec, sooner or later, you will end up with exactly the same issue......






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If you have old spec front sash, it will be pressed hard against the weatherstrip to make good seal.
The old design weatherstrip was also designed with that in mind.
You will notice small dent/dimple section in this area if old spec front sash is in use regardless of the spec of the weatherstrip.




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With the later spec front sash, Honda changed the way it makes good seal around the door glass.
Instead of making the front sash and glass pressing hard against the weatherstrip, it changed the design of the weatherstrip that the rubber will wrap around the edge of the glass and thus, front sash design has to become thin with flexible triangle section design.
Thus, fairly smooth appearance throughout this section without any dent.




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Your photo seems to show the dent specific to the old spec front sash but hard to tell so please check using the 1st and 2nd photo in this post.




Of course even with the later spec front sash + weatherstrip, if the door striker and glass alignment, etc were not good enough, you will get the same issue but please check the above first.
I'll leave the further advice later as it will change depending on the spec of your front sash.

For the rubber parts that get in contact with the glass, I recommend using the 303 Aerospace UV protectant if you want to keep the glass free from greasy trace.


Kaz
 
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Your window seems to go up by too much. This can be due to the stopper mechanism weakening over time with the windows always fully closed. I've seen that here and there. The trick is to blipp the window switch for a fraction of a second to release the tension of the mechanism, at least while the car is stored. In a closed garage I leave the windows open by 1'' anyway to prevent any futher detoriation of the stopper plates.

My car has also some cracks in the rubber of the sashs. I've adjusted the window (PITA) and used black 3M tape as a band aid. Works fine so far, even when washing with high pressure unless you point directly to the weak point. Better than $2000 is you replace all parts involved.
 
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From your other posts, you seem to have 91/92 model.
If this is the case, before buying anything, please check the spec of your front sash.

Although there is only one parts no. available for the front sash, there are two different specs on our NSX.
If you lower the door glass, you can easily tell the difference.


And what it makes even worse is the fact that Honda changed the design of the upper weatherstrip (the rubber that the glass makes contact) and the modified version is only compatible with the later spec front sash.
If you order the upper weatherstrip now, even if you use the old parts no, you will only get the modified later version.

So, if you have the combination of [old spec front sash + later spec upper weatherstrip] = 100% guaranteed wind noise and water into the cabin from the very position you mentioned.

Therefore, even if you replace the weatherstrip now, if your front sash is of old spec, sooner or later, you will end up with exactly the same issue......






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If you have old spec front sash, it will be pressed hard against the weatherstrip to make good seal.
The old design weatherstrip was also designed with that in mind.
You will notice small dent/dimple section in this area if old spec front sash is in use regardless of the spec of the weatherstrip.




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With the later spec front sash, Honda changed the way it makes good seal around the door glass.
Instead of making the front sash and glass pressing hard against the weatherstrip, it changed the design of the weatherstrip that the rubber will wrap around the edge of the glass and thus, front sash design has to become thin with flexible triangle section design.
Thus, fairly smooth appearance throughout this section without any dent.




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Your photo seems to show the dent specific to the old spec front sash but hard to tell so please check using the 1st and 2nd photo in this post.




Of course even with the later spec front sash + weatherstrip, if the door striker and glass alignment, etc were not good enough, you will get the same issue but please check the above first.
I'll leave the further advice later as it will change depending on the spec of your front sash.

For the rubber parts that get in contact with the glass, I recommend using the 303 Aerospace UV protectant if you want to keep the glass free from greasy trace.


Kaz

Kaz,

I'll take some better shots of the door jam and window and you can help me better asses the situation better, but it is a 91 and unless the previous owner changed the gaskets then they should all be the stock setup.

I also do get wind noise from the drivers side where the window meets the B pillar [emoji17], so I'm thinking some sort of window adjustment may be necessary because the seals do seem to be okay but who knows, I'm a novice at this sort of stuff.


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Your window seems to go up by too much. This can be due to the stopper mechanism weakening over time with the windows always fully closed. I've seen that here and there. The trick is to blipp the window switch for a fraction of a second to release the tension of the mechanism, at least while the car is stored. In a closed garage I leave the windows open by 1'' anyway to prevent any futher detoriation of the stopper plates.

My car has also some cracks in the rubber of the sashs. I've adjusted the window (PITA) and used black 3M tape as a band aid. Works fine so far, even when washing with high pressure unless you point directly to the weak point. Better than $2000 is you replace all parts involved.

Hmm thanks I'll see if that slight blip helps, I can avoid blasting the weak spots with water I'm more concerned about when it rains. I'd essentially like to get all these little quirks sorted out.


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If you are leaking at the B pillar, do the site line along the body to make sure that the door is fitting flush with the body by adjusting the door strike first. You don't want to adjust the glass and then adjust the strike because you may have to redo your glass adjustment. Also, if your strike is too far out, adjustment of the strike may resolve some of your leakage problems.
 
If you are leaking at the B pillar, do the site line along the body to make sure that the door is fitting flush with the body by adjusting the door strike first. You don't want to adjust the glass and then adjust the strike because you may have to redo your glass adjustment. Also, if your strike is too far out, adjustment of the strike may resolve some of your leakage problems.

No no leaks at the b pillar just wind noise from that location. The doors do fit flush, I'll take some pics when I have the chance


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