I drifted and tracked a bunch in other cars before I got my NSX I found that its a bit different in that it'll do everything you tell it and it'll do it quickly, especially the bad stuff. For example, Typically in a FR car with a longer wheel base you'll feel the momentum build up as it initiates a slide (either weight transfer left to right, front to back or power-over) right when you feel it you have about 1/4 a second to let the car settle then another 1/2 to decide what to do- Get on throttle, get off throttle, turn in, do nothing... In the NSX it seems that that time you have to figure out what you need to do is much, much shorter. Its almost like you need a deliberate anticipation before something happens and if you zig when you should zagged, you'll loop it. Since my car is SUPER tail happy (sway bar debacle as mentioned in another thread) ive gotten rather good at straddling all above options to feel what the car needs. Unintentionally as it may have started this characteristic of my NSX has refined my driving inputs to be much more subtle and deliberate. I'll watch video of myself driving and get to points where i remember feeling on the razors edge of catastrophe but the footage the moment looks nothing more than a quick steering motion. I always get the comment from non NSX driving friends that say "look how easy it is to go fast in that thing, your hardly doing anything, its driving itself" : / The reality is im using all my brain and body to feel what small corrections are needed. The NSX rewards finesse, restraint and deft inputs with unbelievable car to driver communication if you'll listen to its whispers it'll tell you how to drive it faster than you think itll go. Thats the most cheesy but the best way to articulate how different it is and why i find it so rewarding.
As far as crack back, its not the same as 'snap oversteer' that people talk about, crackback is what happens after the car has already gotten sideways- If you're already in that situation you can avoid crack back by not letting off the gas too quickly, rather stay on it and squeeze it off as your reducing your steering angle. The crack back is just pent up polar inertia that reacts on the car when as regains grip when not in a straight line, all that energy gets channeled into the suspension and releases its self as a rebound frequency from one side to the other until its dissipated. To put it another way you want to maintain reduced traction (keep on throttle) until your more inline with the direction of travel so when you regain traction the energy that was trying to pendulum the tail around is now just manageable forward moving inertia.
As far as car set up to get rid of crack back its more of a roundabout answer. At the risk of over simplification the idea behind pretty much all race parts is to get as much energy from the chassis/motor/aero into the contact patch of the tires, then stickier tires will increase ability to go faster.
That being said all deleting the rubber bushings and getting stiffer springs and bars is meant to do get the energy through the chassis to the tires in a more linear path. Instead of slowing the path to the ground with bushing deflection, compliance and unwanted compression the forces are now channeled directly into your tires which now struggle to cope. Fitting race rubber basically increases the bandwidth threshold of energy from car to ground. Things like corner balance, alignment, weight distribution are adjustments affect the sharing of this energy through as much bandwidth as possible on all available outlets (tires). This can be further tuned with spring rates and swaybars. Mind you now, this is a theoretical model dealing with a 100% flat surface, things get much more complicated when you add bumps etc, but you get the point. With your set up, crappy NANKINGS will give up faster (slide) because your asking more outta them in a shorter period of time. Now that we've been down the garden path; All tires produce grip, all sliding takes energy. If you have a situation with both there will always be potential for crack back. Set the car up to avoid sliding sideways and by transitive nature you'll avoiding crack back too.
A good thing i learned years ago was to look at steering angle and throttle as connected- the more steering angle you have the less throttle you can use at the same time. Less steering angle, more throttle.
My old ae86 had no power steering and a quaife quick ratio steering rack, crack back was down right dangerous. I sprained my thumb more than a few times figuring out what i was doing. I learned out of self preservation that if the slide is too far gone just gas the shit outta it and loop it into a 360 instead of letting it crack back. it was much easier on all components of the car (and driver) :] Ill try and find a video of what im talking about.
