So today I finally got stuck in a stand still traffic. A/c was blowing really cold earlier. However, when I was at a stand still, it only blow cool air. I had to kept my RPM up to get it to blow cold air again. When I finally moved again, it got cold. 100+ degree in Houston is not a place you would want to be without A/C. What could be the problem be? Air in the hoses? The car was converted to R134a.
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A/C is cold only while driving.
- Thread starter ysoslow
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From what I hear, R134a does not work as good as R12. Also, make sure that your A/C fans are turning up front(fans inside the front wheel wells). If not you may have a blown fuse.
I know what you mean as I have suffered through the Houston heat too recently.
In my experience, the a/c works best when air is moving across the condensers while driving. Between the heat and humidity here right now, it really has a hard time keeping up. It may be working just fine, but it is reaching maximum efficiency.
Not knowing the history of your system other than the conversion, it is hard to say otherwise - age of evaporator, leaks, etc.
In my experience, the a/c works best when air is moving across the condensers while driving. Between the heat and humidity here right now, it really has a hard time keeping up. It may be working just fine, but it is reaching maximum efficiency.
Not knowing the history of your system other than the conversion, it is hard to say otherwise - age of evaporator, leaks, etc.
It could be the dreaded evaporator. It may not be related to the movement of your car if so
Encountering the same problem in our 34C weather lately. When on our expressway going at 50 MPH plus, all is fine. But idle in traffic, cool air only. Have checked the freon level and topped up and cleaned both condensor fans. Technican said hear disspation is the issue. Also detected slow leak re the evaporator unit which need to be replaced soon.
I know exactly what the issue is. The Expansion Valve is not opening/closing as it should and will need to be replaced.
A monumental task in the NSX as the entire dash must be removed to get to it!
A monumental task in the NSX as the entire dash must be removed to get to it!
You better replace the evaporator too then, since that is like a $3k job due to dash removal. Is this valve part of the evaporator? I already ordered the evaporator but did not know about the valve, I do not want to have to do it twice.
For what it's worth, Dallas weather has been... almost as bad as Houston.. 40 days at 100 to 110 degrees. Took my car in to have cv boots replaced and they did an A/C charger.. Before it was "cool" but not comfortable when sitting still. After an inexpensive A/C service and 1/2 pound charge up it works really well. Much Colder and does well sitting in 100 degree trafic. The conversion could be the issue, trash in the system clogging a valve.. etc.. But sometimes it's not as "bad" as it could be, it's just bee really, really hot. However, nothing replaces air moving through the cores.. good luck.
My car has the same issue in very hot weather. Cool air at idle, ice cold when on the highway. I always thought it was a cooling efficiency issue with my 20 year old dented condensers. My plan was to pull the nose, straighten all the fins and clean out the condensers to improve the airflow.
Compressor and evap were replaced in 2008 and it also has the R134 conversion done at that time.
Compressor and evap were replaced in 2008 and it also has the R134 conversion done at that time.
The dealer gets $1,300.00, including parts, to complete this job. The Acura book allows 8.5 hours to remove the dashboard, install the parts and reinstall everything.
I would also check the water valve for proper operation / adjustment. You may be fighting some operation of the heater.
And that is exactly why they are nicknamed stealerships.
I really appreciate the advice and tips. Hopefully I can tackle it this weekend. I am not paying 1300 for the stealership to do it. I've taking dashes off and installing them on many cars before. I'm pretty sure I can handle this. I have the manual and my tools. The only thing I need is a lot of fans and ice cream to keep me cool while working on this.
I rather use the 1300 toward a tb and wp change since I have no clue what to do there and is way to scared to even attempt it.
I rather use the 1300 toward a tb and wp change since I have no clue what to do there and is way to scared to even attempt it.
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The valve can (should) be R&R'd from the front firewall, behind the blower motor housing. It is tight and I've never done it, but it appears that the engineers of the NSX intended the expansion valve to be replaced WITHOUT removing the dash.
Drew
Drew
R134a works fine. The conversion to R134a has nothing to do with the problem you are experiencing.
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I hear the valve comes with the new condenser, is that correct?
Yes the valve comes with the new condensor but you can replace the valve separate without pulling the dash by removing the blower assembly and it is right there when you remove the blower then just use wrenchs to loosen it
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Well I will just send you a pic to confirm dave 
thanks
thanksThink I have the same problem on my NSX, there is no cool air coming at all.
I had the tightness of the system tested and all was OK, they pumped vacuum and then filled with new gas (r134 -it´s a converted system). The compressor is working but there is a stop somewhere in the pipings, they told me that the Expansion Valve is a common problem-part on most car models.
Read about the time-wasting job with the dash and also have the same question:
Can you do replacement of the Expansion valve from the front dept without stripping the dash?
Here is the part:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Expansi...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e6bc22f23
I had the tightness of the system tested and all was OK, they pumped vacuum and then filled with new gas (r134 -it´s a converted system). The compressor is working but there is a stop somewhere in the pipings, they told me that the Expansion Valve is a common problem-part on most car models.
Read about the time-wasting job with the dash and also have the same question:
Can you do replacement of the Expansion valve from the front dept without stripping the dash?
Here is the part:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Expansi...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e6bc22f23
Probably. I just did my evaporator myself and the expansion valve is accessible through the hole in the wall just behind the blower.
Remove the blower and you will see it. 10 min job to get to it.
A new evaporator assy comes with a new expansion valve BTW.
