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Climate Control Unit (CCU) repaired

Thanks for the reply, and I have got most replacement caps @ 130c spec instead of 105, will get the job done by a friend of mine this weekend:wink:

just wonder if I should check the bose amp as well? and where is it located?:confused:

Here is a little about my car, its a 94 Brookland green coupe with black top, beige interior AT, just bought it for less than 3 months from the original owner with only 12,xxx km, everything is stock, and the "stock" means nothing has been replaced: -->even the timing belt!!!!!

and what I have done so far:
1. get the engine oil & AT oil changed
2. fixed the audio(it was not working when I collect it) by simply clean the audio fuse, put it back and it works as it should
3. replaced the rear hatch struts
4. thats what going on --> the CCU caps, in the mean time cleaned the little fan
5. will soon get the TB and water pump replaced when I have time to make an appointment with my mechanic...

It has been my dream car for so long and I now got it finally, so I would love to keep it as long as I can and following all the valueable advise from the community to keep it in top condition.

Thanks all

BTW I am from a little city HK
 
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Thanks for the reply, and I have got most replacement caps @ 130c spec instead of 105, will get the job done by a friend of mine this weekend:wink:

just wonder if I should check the bose amp as well? and where is it located?:confused:

BTW I am from a little city HK

There are 3 amps one in each door and one in the passenger foot well if they are working OK leave them alone but when one goes bad rebuild all three.

http://nsxe-repair.com/DS-removal.html

http://nsxe-repair.com/FW-removal.html
 
I'm suspicious that the root cause is a circuit design problem. The capacitors that failed in Nick675's CCU were C44, C11, and C32. On my unit, it was C44 and C11. I was lucky to catch C11 before it did any damage to the printed wiring board. C44 created a somewhat ugly mess, but all the paths are still intact. The attached pictures show C44 before and after cleanup & a new capacitor install, as well as a cleaned area under a good capacitor (C16) to show just how much damage was done by C44.

In other posts on Prime, I have seen C44 and C32 clearly idenitfied. So, there is a trend involving these 3 specific capacitors.

I just fixed mine yesterday. Only the three caps were bad (C44, C11, and C32).
I suspect this is a design issue. If this was an problem with the cap's, than I suspect others would fail as well.
The bad caps I replaced were rated to 105C.
I also had to repair 2 traces as they were open.

I went down to Frys and bought the caps. They didn't have radial lead caps for two of the values so I bought axial lead parts.
This turned to be a good thing. I connected the pos lead to the resistor where the trace was routed to.
If I had a radial lead part than I would have had to add a wire to the pcb.
 
I just fixed mine yesterday. Only the three caps were bad (C44, C11, and C32).
I suspect this is a design issue. If this was an problem with the cap's, than I suspect others would fail as well.
The bad caps I replaced were rated to 105C.
I also had to repair 2 traces as they were open.

I went down to Frys and bought the caps. They didn't have radial lead caps for two of the values so I bought axial lead parts.
This turned to be a good thing. I connected the pos lead to the resistor where the trace was routed to.
If I had a radial lead part than I would have had to add a wire to the pcb.

When I get a unit I replace all 13 Electrolytic capacitors and I have seen 11 of the 13 leak. I buy enough capacitors to fix 100 ccu's (1300) at a time. In those quantities they are not expensive so I just replace them all.
 
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BrianK, My cc only works on full speed for heat or air. Before I remove the CCU please clarify that my problem isn't somewhere else. Also, as I told you my vehicle has a factory installed video screen where the clock would be. Do you have any tips to the removel of my unit. What are the chances my dealer would remove the unit for me and reinstall?

Thanks.
 
I had similar issues (only max. fan speed) to others on this forum and replaced C44 {22uF @ 35V} which had blown and it fixed the fan speed for 1 day. Taking the CCU out again, I noticed tthe other 2 capacitors C32 {47uF @ 50V} & C11 {100uF @ 10V} are also leaking. I can't seem to locate a source for 47uF @ 50V at C32. Radio Shack has a 47uF @ 35V, but I think that this would be insufficient. Any recommendations? Thanks - Don
 
I had similar issues (only max. fan speed) to others on this forum and replaced C44 {22uF @ 35V} which had blown and it fixed the fan speed for 1 day. Taking the CCU out again, I noticed tthe other 2 capacitors C32 {47uF @ 50V} & C11 {100uF @ 10V} are also leaking. I can't seem to locate a source for 47uF @ 50V at C32. Radio Shack has a 47uF @ 35V, but I think that this would be insufficient. Any recommendations? Thanks - Don

Yes you don't want to go any lower in voltage rating. You also want to get 105c rated caps, I think RS only has the cheaper 85c ones.
 
BrianK, My cc only works on full speed for heat or air. Before I remove the CCU please clarify that my problem isn't somewhere else. Also, as I told you my vehicle has a factory installed video screen where the clock would be. Do you have any tips to the removel of my unit. What are the chances my dealer would remove the unit for me and reinstall?

Thanks.

I have the same issue where it only works in full speed auto. I read the TSB about the blower motor being bad. Not sure if I should send the CCU to BrianK or replace the motor.
 
98% of fan problems are caused by the ccu. If you have a bad motor the power transistor will be blown also. The cars covered by that blower motor TSB in 91 -92 have long ago failed.

I've removed the CCU from the car. What should I look for on the circuit board if it is indeed the CCU that is broken? I don't plan on repairing it myself but I want to be sure its the CCU. BrianK, how do I go about sending you the unit and send payment?
 
I've removed the CCU from the car. What should I look for on the circuit board if it is indeed the CCU that is broken? I don't plan on repairing it myself but I want to be sure its the CCU. BrianK, how do I go about sending you the unit and send payment?

Black stains under the capacitors.

Email me at [email protected] and I will give you information on where and how much to send.
 
Brian I need your help as well... just happened on the way home today. Please PM me your info, price and turn around time.

thanks


Black stains under the capacitors.

Email me at [email protected] and I will give you information on where and how much to send.
 
Brian I need your help as well... just happened on the way home today. Please PM me your info, price and turn around time.

thanks

Brian does great work for a fare price and turns around the CCU's quickly. Not sure what more anyone could ask for. :smile:
 
Oddly it is working again. I know it is a matter of time before it goes...
 
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