yeah wheels look good to me:biggrin:
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Coilover fitment
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
- Start date
In the Avengers, Cobie Smulders was way hotter!
How we ended up driving the same car... I don't know! :biggrin:
SNOW SABER
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- 9 November 2011
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^^
I am with Dave on this.:biggrin:
^^^
+1
Dave is the master of good taste!:tongue:
+1
Dave is the master of good taste!:tongue:
I raise you
THIS
vs.
THIS
Maybe it's geography. You NorEasters must be bored of seeing the pale brunettes. While we here in Hollywood see the blondes all the time.
In fairness, I sat next to Scarlett at a restaurant. She's short, stacked, and pretty.
THIS
vs.
THIS
Maybe it's geography. You NorEasters must be bored of seeing the pale brunettes. While we here in Hollywood see the blondes all the time.
In fairness, I sat next to Scarlett at a restaurant. She's short, stacked, and pretty.
that is an assumption. Even the type r is a street car and thus they had to retain some ground clearance. Likewise, the original prototype had a more functional rear diffuser like the df sport diffuser but I'm guessing was minified due to ground clearance when it went into production.
I dont think the type r ride height is necessarily the "sweet spot" as the Drift Kings personal type r is even lower. 30 mm/ 40 mm lower if I remember correctly. It's on the best motoring video with the type r vs his personal car and suspension setup.
sent from my crappy cell phone.
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Wow great article here on the FXMD NSX.
The KW's also have low speed rebound damping adjustment. The multitude of damping adjustments allows the shocks to perform a function of platform control vs simply attenuating spring rebound energy. The most critical elements of damping control come at low suspension movement velocities where the shock shaft is moving at only 2 inches per second and below. This is the range where most body motion that is detrimental to a cars handling occurs, like body roll, pitch and dive. Damping at low shaft speeds is very difficult for most shocks as fluid flow is very low so metering is difficult. This is no problem with KW's sensitive precision valving.
The high and low speed compression damping adjustment is the gold and purple screws on the body of the remote reservoir shown here. The low speed rebound adjustment is on top on the shock shaft.
An interesting property about KW's motorsport dampers is their frequency sensitivity. This allows firm control of body motion while still allowing supple response to high frequency bumps that can cause loss of traction. The ability to give the dichotomy of firm control with a plush ride makes KW's a big advantage and have really helped the NSX become a precise handling machine.
The gas reaction force of the KW damper can be adjusted with high pressure dry nitrogen through the shraider valve on the end of the remote reservoir.
The KW's also have low speed rebound damping adjustment. The multitude of damping adjustments allows the shocks to perform a function of platform control vs simply attenuating spring rebound energy. The most critical elements of damping control come at low suspension movement velocities where the shock shaft is moving at only 2 inches per second and below. This is the range where most body motion that is detrimental to a cars handling occurs, like body roll, pitch and dive. Damping at low shaft speeds is very difficult for most shocks as fluid flow is very low so metering is difficult. This is no problem with KW's sensitive precision valving.
The high and low speed compression damping adjustment is the gold and purple screws on the body of the remote reservoir shown here. The low speed rebound adjustment is on top on the shock shaft.
An interesting property about KW's motorsport dampers is their frequency sensitivity. This allows firm control of body motion while still allowing supple response to high frequency bumps that can cause loss of traction. The ability to give the dichotomy of firm control with a plush ride makes KW's a big advantage and have really helped the NSX become a precise handling machine.
The gas reaction force of the KW damper can be adjusted with high pressure dry nitrogen through the shraider valve on the end of the remote reservoir.
See, nothing wrong with zip-ties. :biggrin:
The hard part for you Dave is learning to adjust them. Here is the simplistic idea to find a baseline.
For the track:
1. Leave your high speed bump (compression) where it was originally set.
2. Turn low speed bump (comp) and rebound to full soft.
3. Drive the track of few laps and keep adjusting the low speed bump up (stiffer) until the car feels like it is beginning to skip on the turns. Then back it down a little.
4. Now that the bump (comp) is set, go out and drive and keep increasing the rebound until the car smoothly rolls into the turns. Not too fast and not too slow.
You want max low speed bump (comp) you can use without the car skipping over the bumps. But you want the min amount of rebound that lets the car smoothly roll into the turns.
The really, really hard part about this is recognizing what you are feeling. The bump and the car skipping is pretty easy, but adjusting the rebound and feeling if the car is rolling too fast or two little is much harder.
For the street:
Set low speed bump (comp) and rebound to full soft. Increase low speed bump until the car stops feeling like a Cadillac (not a CTS-V though ). The idea is have just enough bump/compression to control the springs so that the car doesn't bounce up and down oscillating after a bump. You have seen cars with bad shocks how they keep bouncing up and down after going over a bump.... there is no dampening and the spring loads and unloads over and over again until the energy is dissipated. Your bump/compression basically absorbs this turning the motion into heat. So on the street you just want enough bump/comp to stop that bouncing. Rebound you increase a little at a time after each drive to the point where the car doesn't feel too floaty. If it feels to stiff and jarring, then you went too far with the rebound.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/k8Q1XAgHsz8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
The hard part for you Dave is learning to adjust them. Here is the simplistic idea to find a baseline.
For the track:
1. Leave your high speed bump (compression) where it was originally set.
2. Turn low speed bump (comp) and rebound to full soft.
3. Drive the track of few laps and keep adjusting the low speed bump up (stiffer) until the car feels like it is beginning to skip on the turns. Then back it down a little.
4. Now that the bump (comp) is set, go out and drive and keep increasing the rebound until the car smoothly rolls into the turns. Not too fast and not too slow.
You want max low speed bump (comp) you can use without the car skipping over the bumps. But you want the min amount of rebound that lets the car smoothly roll into the turns.
The really, really hard part about this is recognizing what you are feeling. The bump and the car skipping is pretty easy, but adjusting the rebound and feeling if the car is rolling too fast or two little is much harder.
For the street:
Set low speed bump (comp) and rebound to full soft. Increase low speed bump until the car stops feeling like a Cadillac (not a CTS-V though
). The idea is have just enough bump/compression to control the springs so that the car doesn't bounce up and down oscillating after a bump. You have seen cars with bad shocks how they keep bouncing up and down after going over a bump.... there is no dampening and the spring loads and unloads over and over again until the energy is dissipated. Your bump/compression basically absorbs this turning the motion into heat. So on the street you just want enough bump/comp to stop that bouncing. Rebound you increase a little at a time after each drive to the point where the car doesn't feel too floaty. If it feels to stiff and jarring, then you went too far with the rebound.<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/k8Q1XAgHsz8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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IDK how they have so much thread left above the A arm. I wonder if their shock body is taller. Thanks for the advice, I will save this and try it later, but Billy J did give me some good baseline settings. I need to get it all sorted and drive it with those and see how it feels.
As quoted by Ravi above, your VRH adds 20mm when fully collapsed. So looking at the photo of the FXMD, if you added in 20mm in front of the top of the spring it would put the bottom perch right around the a-arm - same as yours.
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No the guy at KW told me that competitions are custom made to order. The FXMD damper looks longer and by a lot more than 20mm.
It doesn't matter that much, I was just wondering. I am pretty sure I have mine resolved with a TON of help from Ravi. I'l post the progress next week.
It doesn't matter that much, I was just wondering. I am pretty sure I have mine resolved with a TON of help from Ravi. I'l post the progress next week.
Again incorrect, I said the collapsed thickness is 20 mm, I did not say it adds 20mm
Please re read, my device places the spring at the identical location as the original kw spring perch.
The underside of my piston, the the underside of the kw spring perch are in the exact same location.
Thank being said, offsetting downward would actually help not hinder.
what is that spring suppose to do btw
Same as the others. They hold the main spring in place when you jack up the car. The difference is these zero rate helper springs only take up about a 1/4" when fully collapsed vs the others which take up about 2-1/2". So the spring perch can be raised up 2-1/4" and the ride height ends up being the same. The only down side would be the shock is compressed the extra 2" at static ride height so you lose that little extra travel. But the KW for the NSX has plenty of stroke so it isn't a big deal.
sent from my crappy cell phone.
Get a longer spring.
We did discuss that but I'm actually all set now with the Hypercos Ravi recommended. I can go higher if I want by moving the perch up, but I am at a good height. billy this car is handling pretty phenomenal now, do you still recommend thicker sway bars than the R I currently have? Seems like the 1000/600 springs are really doing a great job. Plus I have the damper adjustments. I'm worried about making the ride rougher and losing a bit of suspension independence with a 1.25" bar. Or do you think I am way off?
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