I recently looked into buying a Comptech non compliance Rear beam and toe-link kit. The rear beam @$700.00 or so was pretty reasonable, but the toe-links at $440.00 I thought were a bit high. So I took my toe links and took them to a local Metal shop, They pressed out the old rubber portion, and machined a new one made of solid steel. Just press that new peice into the area where the old rubber bushing was, and VOILA, non compliance toe links. And each one only ran me $100.00. A net savings of over 50% from Comptech's Kit.
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DIY Non compliance Toe Links
- Thread starter Edo
- Start date
That simple eh? Solid steel, I wonder how long they will last? And do you pay attention how sof the steel is? Cuz if it's not the steel bushings that are getting grind, it's the other suspensions peices getting grind. Care to let me KNow, Eddie?
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I havent installed them yet but I will let everyone know how they work out. CT's Bushing kit looks like its made of Stainless steel, whereas mine will be mostly Aluminum (stock) and the rubber bushing will be replaced with Steel, which incidentally isstronger than Stainless Steel.
As far as rusting and reliability goes, I dont think there will be THAT big of a problem provided I dont go driving around in Saltwater or some such.
Worst case scenario I can have Stainless Steel peices pressed back in place of the Steel peices I had put in.
I will keep everyone updated. If you dont hear from me for a while, assume they failed catastrophically and that I am dead or dying.
As far as rusting and reliability goes, I dont think there will be THAT big of a problem provided I dont go driving around in Saltwater or some such.
Worst case scenario I can have Stainless Steel peices pressed back in place of the Steel peices I had put in.
I will keep everyone updated. If you dont hear from me for a while, assume they failed catastrophically and that I am dead or dying.
Edo,
I am a little concerned about this mod of yours. I understand what you did, but there is something missing, in my opinion, with this setup. You probably have looked over the Comptech setup pretty well so you are aware of the INNER HIEM JOINT. This joint is there so that when the suspension moves up and down the toe link can pivot FREELY. The original rubber mount allows for this but since it is rubber is has alot of slop. That's why they use the hiem joint.
My concern is you have essentially eliminated the "free movement" of the toe link inner pivot. When you torque down the mounting bolt for the inner toe link end and sandwich it in the rear beam, it is now hard fixed(as in no free pivot).
I feel this may have VERY negative effects on the handling, not to mention that after some time the stress may damage the rear beam mounting boss.
I will not profess to being a suspension guru, but after 25 years I have seen what happens when things don't move freely as originally intended. Something ALWAYS gives.
Don't want to see your car broken, and most of all any harm coming to you personally if the handling is unpredictable.
Hopefully some folks will add some additional input here to validate or discount my position on this.
My $.02
LarryB
I am a little concerned about this mod of yours. I understand what you did, but there is something missing, in my opinion, with this setup. You probably have looked over the Comptech setup pretty well so you are aware of the INNER HIEM JOINT. This joint is there so that when the suspension moves up and down the toe link can pivot FREELY. The original rubber mount allows for this but since it is rubber is has alot of slop. That's why they use the hiem joint.
My concern is you have essentially eliminated the "free movement" of the toe link inner pivot. When you torque down the mounting bolt for the inner toe link end and sandwich it in the rear beam, it is now hard fixed(as in no free pivot).
I feel this may have VERY negative effects on the handling, not to mention that after some time the stress may damage the rear beam mounting boss.
I will not profess to being a suspension guru, but after 25 years I have seen what happens when things don't move freely as originally intended. Something ALWAYS gives.
Don't want to see your car broken, and most of all any harm coming to you personally if the handling is unpredictable.
Hopefully some folks will add some additional input here to validate or discount my position on this.
My $.02
LarryB
After a little more research, it looks like I will be pressing in a sort of a Teflon lined bearing into the area where Comptech puts the Heim joint. It is essentially the same setup as Comptech's peice, but it appears as if using this "Teflon lined Spherical bearing insert" will make sure that the Toe Link does indeed have *some* room to flex which apparently is very essential.
I will keep a tab on the costs, and see if it is indeed possible to make a near identical peice and keep the costs below CT's 440.00
I may end up just finding out that it is indeed cheaper to buy CT's unit.
I will keep a tab on the costs, and see if it is indeed possible to make a near identical peice and keep the costs below CT's 440.00
I may end up just finding out that it is indeed cheaper to buy CT's unit.
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