• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Engine removal

gsrboy

gsrboy

Experienced Member
Joined
1 August 2008
Messages
876
Location
Los Angeles
This is the first time I actually touched the motor since I had the car. I need to drop the motor and have trouble finding any articles on this. Is there a step by step write up for dropping the motor? I have the wiring harness and coolant lines detatched. How hard is it to remove the clutch cable? Is there anything else I should watch out for?

Thanks
 
gsrboy said:
This is the first time I actually touched the motor since I had the car. I need to drop the motor and have trouble finding any articles on this. Is there a step by step write up for dropping the motor? I have the wiring harness and coolant lines detatched. How hard is it to remove the clutch cable? Is there anything else I should watch out for?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Clutch cable? the NSX does not have a clutch cable. I think you are in way over your head. Get a copy of the service manual. You have a body lift, a crane and a wheeled platforn for the engine and sub frame? :rolleyes: For doit yourself work you should not need to remove the engine and if for some reason the engine must come out then it should be at a shop.
 
Last edited:
Just wondering: why do you have to drop the engine? It's a lot of work and like Briank said only makes sense with the right tools.
 
Dude,

In the other thread you were asking advice about your throw out bearing, and master/slave and clutch. You do not need to pull the engine for any of that, it would be a total waste of work/effort.

Do yourself a favor and get a service manual and read it carefully, then you will have some detailed questions to pursue.

BTW, there are two "shift" cables, this is why you need to read the manual;).

Regards,
LarryB
 
As Larry now mentions it I only now see the correlation between the two threads. :wink:

Well, did you solve your clutch hydraulic problem so far? Be sure you get a service manual and get your clutch hydraulics 100% before before even thinking about dropping the engine/gearbox. :)
 
goldNSX said:
Well, did you solve your clutch hydraulic problem so far? Be sure you get a service manual and get your clutch hydraulics 100% before before even thinking about dropping the engine/gearbox. :)
Click to expand...

Even if the clutch were bad, I would not be pulling out the drivetrain to do a clutch;).

Regards,
LarryB
 
What the heck is the 2 lines going to the lower tranny then. lol either way I decided im going to build the motor for boost. Thanks for the online manual though.
 
When you say you need to drop the engine, you really mean, you want to drop it. Right?
If you're not in any hurry to get back on the road, and you do not mind wasting some bucks to learn the car, then by all means, "Drop 'er down and take her apart!" :biggrin: Have fun.
Caution: Try not to lose anything, and all will be well.
 
Larry has already answered that. Those are shift cables.

Once you remove the shift cable cover, you will see how the shift cables are attached. The shift cables are held in place by cotter pins. They are on top. You will have to use a mirror to see them. Just bend the cotter pins back together so you can pull them with a needle nose plier.
 
passline said:
When you say you need to drop the engine, you really mean, you want to drop it. Right?
If you're not in any hurry to get back on the road, and you do not mind wasting some bucks to learn the car, then by all means, "Drop 'er down and take her apart!" :biggrin: Have fun.
Caution: Try not to lose anything, and all will be well.
Click to expand...


haha you got me there. =) I like learning stuff I was never scared of doing it on the integra or civic. I know the nsx is more expensive but I am in no rush. I have a DD and a bike already so I am just going to take my time and do it right. I am labeling everything lol and zip locking all nuts and bolts that come off the motor.
 
vsy05 said:
Larry has already answered that. Those are shift cables.

Once you remove the shift cable cover, you will see how the shift cables are attached. The shift cables are held in place by cotter pins. They are on top. You will have to use a mirror to see them. Just bend the cotter pins back together so you can pull them with a needle nose plier.
Click to expand...

opps and when I said clutch cable I meant the shifter cable lol. sorry bad wording.

Thanks for the detailed info. =)
 
Last edited:
Finally got a hold of a hoist. =)
picture794m.jpg
 
I say good on you.
Most NSX owners are afraid to change the oil themselves.

What are you going to do with the build ?
I'm contemplating getting a spare motor and doing a 500HP turbo build. No new sleeves and stock con rods.
New Pistons, total seal rings, copper head gaskets, gutted or removed butterfly plate, polish all sharp corners, etc, etc.
I was looking at getting a Porsche GT2 but I can have my NSX cake and eat it too. A 500HP cake.
 
Last edited:
Thanks man, I am actually going to do a full build. I dont have a spare motor and I dont want to drop the motor again. =) I am planning on darton sleeves, oliver billet rods, JE or CP 9.5:1, arp head/main studs, clean up the stock oem pump but get new billet gears, ATI harmonic balancer, maybe sos billet main caps.

I havent done much research on the stock head yet so I am not sure what theyre capable of. I want to do new valve seals for sure though. I am going to do upgraded valve springs/TI retainers and probably keep stock valves? I want about 650-750whp so if the head can make it easy then I wont do port n polish. I am gutting the butterfly plate like you though. I am actually going to do that tomorrow. I am also doing a larger TB and have it port matched to the IM.

For turbo I am going to just piece things together. I am probably going to run a walbro 255 intank and a bosch 044 inline with RC1000cc or higher if need. Run after market header with flex section with the STMPO/AFI y pipe and a BW s366 turbo. Probably have B&R build me a custom catch can so I can run 2 an fitting on each head and one drain back to the oil pan. Run a A/W intercooler I like it mounted where the factory box is though.

Transmission I am still debating on JDM short gear or keep my stock one. I am going to have it WPC and deburr for sure though. I am going to run the RPS twin carbon disc though.

As for now I am taking one step at a time. Tomorrow I am going to take the rest of the motor apart and have it ready to be sent out for sleeving. I am going to get the butterfly plate gutted and have the holes welded shut.

I havent dont much research on the head yet but for now I am sure I want a solid bottom end.
 
Before
picture817.jpg

picture820.jpg

After
picture827i.jpg

Getting the harmonic balancer bolt off was a pain in the ass! Just ask Garrett!!!
All 3/8 drive
picture824t.jpg

Cheesin before the big momment!
picture821.jpg

Im actually farting
picture822.jpg

YEAH!!!
picture826.jpg
 
No good... 1 cam journal has been eaten up by crap in the motor. I took off the oil pan and saw bronze shaving... bearing.... Either way lucky I took the motor apart and found out before my whole motor is destroyed. I gotta bring the head to the machine shop so they can clean up that journal and smooth it out with the cam. Hopefully it will work out... =(

picture005h.jpg

picture008dm.jpg

picture009r.jpg


really crappy picture but you get the point. The cam cap is worst so I might have to replace that. Not sure yet however I might get away with just smoothing out the journals and cam. Lucky its only 1 journal. =)

Any input on what I should do with the head?
 
I don't like to run TI retainers on street motor. That thing wear out too fast you have to check the valves lash every 5000 miles. IF you're not running aftermarket cams I would just keep stock valves spring and retainer, just get new Lost Motion
 

Similar threads

Chris_Lum
DIY: Manual Transmission Removal (5-Speed) (91-96)
Replies
0
Views
139
Chris_Lum
Chris_Lum
Old Guy
Accessing engine block coolant drains and thermostat removal
Replies
19
Views
768
Old Guy
Old Guy
Chris_Lum
DIY: OEM 00+ ABS Upgrade (SOS Version) (91-99)
Replies
0
Views
225
Chris_Lum
Chris_Lum
Old Guy
Replacement rubber boot for oil pressure switch
Replies
9
Views
712
Old Guy
Old Guy
M
Ruptured slave cylinder hose
Replies
4
Views
425
drew
drew
Back
Top