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Engine removal

Very nice, what I done in the past is build the motor as you have done sleeving etc and build up of the weak points as you started with the sleeving process, pistons, rods etc. I am too doing the same with sleeves (Benson) good choice though. A lot of research and questions with those who have done so. Are you planninng on upgrading the clutch and replacing coolant hoses etc? Your at a good position to do so since this is all out unless it has been changed within the past. I would run it all motor to get a complete good break in for piece of mind. You stated you will run the car on the dyno which I presume is to seat the new rings etc. Feel the car out but it looks as with your higher compression you will be at All motor which in the end will limit you with power, not saying you won't have good power but I never liked being limited (good point is no one will suspect besides the ones who know your built. =) In many cases I look forward to your completion and result. Good luck with the build.
Forced induction (turbo is so addicting) I just hope in the end you don't have the case of the go fast crack pipe and turn to FI after this NA build which would cost more time which seems in many cases gives you experience in what you have accomplished so far. I always talk myself out of a plan with too much thinking but a sought out plan is a good one ;). Anyways carry on any updates?

=g=

Thanks man, I am going to seat the rings on the dyno + tune for a/f ratio. I am not sure about what clutch to go with yet. I will replace all hoses on the car. I will post pictures as I do so. I know NA is limited to how much power I make but ive never tried it. I would love to see what it is capable of especially on the nsx. I am just waiting for pistons right now. It is currently being made and should be here in about 3 weeks. Then off to the machine shop for 93mm bore/hone. Then the fun begins! I will keep everyone posted when I start the engine build. I hope to go into great details with pictures showing the engine build so some may benefit from it.
 
NA is capable of a lot. The JGTC NSX used a NA C32B essentially modified to a 3.5L stroker with ITB. It made 500+ hp at the crank. Big power is possible, it just costs more than FI. Get high-comp pistions, stroker crank, hot cams and you're on your way. I will watch this thread with eager anticipation. :D

Thanks man, I am going to seat the rings on the dyno + tune for a/f ratio. I am not sure about what clutch to go with yet. I will replace all hoses on the car. I will post pictures as I do so. I know NA is limited to how much power I make but ive never tried it. I would love to see what it is capable of especially on the nsx. I am just waiting for pistons right now. It is currently being made and should be here in about 3 weeks. Then off to the machine shop for 93mm bore/hone. Then the fun begins! I will keep everyone posted when I start the engine build. I hope to go into great details with pictures showing the engine build so some may benefit from it.
 
Can you tell us which piston suppliers you have considered, and why you chose the ones you did? And which supplier did you choose in the end?

If you're having them custom made, both Cosworth and MAHLE are possible suppliers.
 
Can you tell us which piston suppliers you have considered, and why you chose the ones you did? And which supplier did you choose in the end?

If you're having them custom made, both Cosworth and MAHLE are possible suppliers.

I talked to both CP and Weisco. I think all major piston manufacture can make custom pistons. I went with custom CPs, the reason is because I have used them for all my other engine build and they have proven itself to me. I just went with 93mm 11.5:1 CP. I love shopping around and when I figured that going directly to the source would save me almost $250 I went with it.
 
I guess its time for some updates.

Block bored/hone to 93mm.

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Pistons installed/rings filed to spec
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Cometic head gaskets
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Billet oil pump gears
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ARP head studs
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ATI harmonic balancer
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1st box from honda
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2nd box from honda
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ARP rod bolts
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Oil baffled welded on
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The bottom end should be done by tomorrow if I have the time after work!
=)
 
LOVE this thread. ARP, ATI, 11.5:1, baffle pan, you are building my dream engine. :D Keep the updates coming!
 
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How do you plan to balance the whole rotating assembly for that silky-smooth, domestic V8 feel?

The machine shop that did the bore/hone and installed the arp said it was well balanced. The pistons were only a few grams heavier than stock for 3mm over. So he ended up not doing so.
 
this sure is fun to watch come together.
 
can u tell us what parts ur ordered from honda please.

I purchased all new seals/gaskets, water pump, slave and a few other stuff needed for the engine from the bottom up. It took me awhile to assemble a list but I have one so if you need the part number and quantity let me know.

Tuan
 
Removed the main caps to install new caps at the bottom of the block and the crank.
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Torque to 9 ft lb
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Crank in
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Install the main caps in order
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All torqued down (used plastigauge to double check clearance given by machine shop)
larger bolt 48 ft lb
smaller bolt 29 ft lb
side bolt 36 ft lb
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I then removed everything clean up the plastigauge with break clean and a clean rag. I used MPZ assembly lube for the main bearings and rod bearings. Installed only 2 pistons last night and ran out of time.

http://www.torco-oil.com/torco_product/mpz_engine.html

Lubed
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Its red colored lube and adheres to the bearings better and doesnt drip all over.

Pistons 1,2 installed
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When installing the pistons make sure that the oil holes are facing the rear of the engine on the rods. Also refer to page 146 of the service manual to position the rings.
 
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Billet gears installed, new seal and a shimmy to increase oil pressure a bit.
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Water pump and oil cooler installed
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Rear main seal installed
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Small bolts were all 9 ft lb and larger one was 18 ft lb and some 16 ft lb.
I put some lube on the oil pump gears to ensure no metal to metal contact without some lube.
 
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Engine porn indeed. I'm totally jealous.
 
engine build looks great. i was a little disappointed when i saw you decided to go NA though lol. excellent choice going with benson sleeves, they are top knotch, ive had a couple personal motors sleeved by benson, not C30 though just a couple FI b series. im going to be picking up an NSX hopefully within the next month if the right one comes along, and over the next couple years i will be looking to do a similar build for FI, ill definately be going to benson for my sleeving again.

maybe i skimmed over it but what are you plans for the heads? are you going to be replacing valvetrain and cams especially since its NA?
 
engine build looks great. i was a little disappointed when i saw you decided to go NA though lol. excellent choice going with benson sleeves, they are top knotch, ive had a couple personal motors sleeved by benson, not C30 though just a couple FI b series. im going to be picking up an NSX hopefully within the next month if the right one comes along, and over the next couple years i will be looking to do a similar build for FI, ill definately be going to benson for my sleeving again.

maybe i skimmed over it but what are you plans for the heads? are you going to be replacing valvetrain and cams especially since its NA?

Larry @ endyn is working on the head. It will be a full build on the head as well including bronze valve guides, valve train, port work, and custom cams.
 
Custom cams! How wild were you able to go for the VTEC lobes? Stock on the intake side is supposed to be 10.2 mm of lift with a duration of 230 degrees. SoS state their NA cams give you 10.7 mm of lift with a duration of 271 degrees, Comptech state 11.4 mm with a duration of 256 degrees, and Toda’s Spec A cams are supposed to give you 12.0 mm with a duration of 285 degrees.
 
Custom cams! How wild were you able to go for the VTEC lobes? Stock on the intake side is supposed to be 10.2 mm of lift with a duration of 230 degrees. SoS state their NA cams give you 10.7 mm of lift with a duration of 271 degrees, Comptech state 11.4 mm with a duration of 256 degrees, and Toda’s Spec A cams are supposed to give you 12.0 mm with a duration of 285 degrees.

I am not sure, lol larry had me send in one of my piston so they can figure out what cams I can use for my set up. He is going to make the most aggressive but still have a safe valve to valve clearance/ piston to valve clearance. I dont know too much about it though I know ill have to position the cams in properly once theyre done though.
 
i cringed a bit when i read you cleaned off the plastigage with a rag...i always just use my clean fingernail and if i can't get it all then i use a microfiber (never have had to though) amazingly thorough build! i would like to commend you on your very solid work and choices.

i plan to build a c30 in a very similar manner in the future. GL with the rest of your build i'll be watching.
 
i cringed a bit when i read you cleaned off the plastigage with a rag...i always just use my clean fingernail and if i can't get it all then i use a microfiber (never have had to though) amazingly thorough build! i would like to commend you on your very solid work and choices.

i plan to build a c30 in a very similar manner in the future. GL with the rest of your build i'll be watching.

Thanks! I sprayed break clean on a clean microfiber towel to get the plastigauge out. It wiped right out.
 
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