Engine removal

[gsrboy]

Thanks! Next on the list is oliver or carrillo rods! We see what kinda deal I can get. My friend is sponsored and got me quoted fairly cheap for the carrillo H beam with the 3/8 car bolts so if the offer is still there in a month or so Ill take it if not ill go with the oliver rods.

 

[gsrboy]

Today drilled holes for fuel feed and return for both rails.

Plan take off the studs for fuel feed and weld it shut and weld on -8 bungs for feed to each rail and -6 bungs for return.

 

[ntgr8td]

Great job so far on the build so far. As scared as we all get working on the car...its stil a honda. If you've built a b series you can build a c series lol. I <3 my honda
Bill

 

[ralph cerbone]

Today drilled holes for fuel feed and return for both rails.

Plan take off the studs for fuel feed and weld it shut and weld on -8 bungs for feed to each rail and -6 bungs for return.

excellent ,if you want more heat you need more wood , keep up the good work!!!!!!!:smile:

 

[stevenlee]

Your cast aluminum parts look REALLY clean. Can you give us details on how you got them so bright?

 

[gsrboy]

Your cast aluminum parts look REALLY clean. Can you give us details on how you got them so bright?

First I use- Super clean to clean up all the oil/gunk/ and grime build up. Make sure you dilute the concentrated fluid as needed. Read the back of the bottle.

Once its all free from that I use a fine metal wire brush you can purchase at most any store at their tool section. The Wire brush works really well. You will instantly see a difference you will not need to worry about rusting you can use a polishing compound but I choose not to. Its aluminum and it shouldnt rust. Ive done this to a few B and D series motors. It came out great and makes it much easier to clean up.

Make sure you dont wire-brush the flat surfaces for oil or coolant sealing. You want a flat surface for those area so it wont leak. But everywhere else your good to go.

In hard to reach area you can use a dremel they sell small wire brush for them as well.

 

[drew]

I know your process probably works great for you, but you shouldn't brush aluminum with carbon steel.

You can get the right brush for this process


http://www.spiralbrushes.com/steel-wire.html

Steel wire is not recommended for the following situations:

Brushing Stainless Steel or Aluminum: Use of carbon steel wire on stainless steel or aluminum will contaminate the surface and leave an "after-rust" effect. To prevent "after-rust", always use a stainless steel wire on stainless steel, and use stainless steel or aluminum wire on aluminum.

 

[gsrboy]

I know your process probably works great for you, but you shouldn't brush aluminum with carbon steel.

You can get the right brush for this process


http://www.spiralbrushes.com/steel-wire.html

Weird Ive always used steel wire brush and never had a single problem and I live in oregon. Its always damp and raining here. My previous motor was fine for a few years without a problem( I dont know anymore because its sold now). I guess if your worried you can always use a polishing compound to seal it.

 

[I1O101I]

Any photo updates on that motor?

Bryan

 

[gsrboy]

Sorry, no updates yet. Just got done with finals this week so I should have alot more free time to work on the car. I will update when I get other stuff done.

 

[Qucumber]

Fantastic job! well done.

 

[masgas]

Impressionant, very nice.
Congratulations

 

[normalfellow]

hey whats up, i come from the same exact background as you.... Building doing it myself engines and figuring out the whole b-series and k-series thing. Anyways, im also planning to pull out my motor too. I already have the manual and already went through it. You have any suggestions on how to drop the motor at home? Sounds like two jacks did the job and Im assuming you will need a cherry picker and a rolling cart in yoru case? let me know, your opinion is valuable to me since i think i would probably do it the same way as you .

Alex

 

[jeffchai]

excellent build keep us updated.

 

[gsrboy]

hey whats up, i come from the same exact background as you.... Building doing it myself engines and figuring out the whole b-series and k-series thing. Anyways, im also planning to pull out my motor too. I already have the manual and already went through it. You have any suggestions on how to drop the motor at home? Sounds like two jacks did the job and Im assuming you will need a cherry picker and a rolling cart in yoru case? let me know, your opinion is valuable to me since i think i would probably do it the same way as you .

Alex

Its very similar to any other honda get the harness off, axles, fuel feed, ac lines, exhaust, headers. Heres some pics

Got the harness off

Muffler off

Axles off (going to replace the brake line)

Found the AC lines

Not too big of a mess yet...

Only a few bolts holding the motor in

My clutch, tranny off.... For the clutch fork make sure u push it in and it will slide out the way and allow u to pull it away from the motor. Also the cables going to the tranny there is 2 pins holding it together. Use a mirror and you will be able to see it. Once thts all you can get the cable off. The intermediate shaft was pretty hard to take off. I tried doing it how the manual said but I ended up pulling the tranny out and pulling the shaft the other way till it came out.

Once I got to this point I used a hoist to get it the bolts off holding the mounts in and then slowly lowered it. I had some friends to help move the motor and adjust it till it cleared. Lowered it on to some ply wood raised the car up with the jack and pulled out the engine.

Getting the suspension back on.

I didnt have the service mat so I used serrand wrap which worked out just fine. Theres not many things different compare to other hondas. If you know how to work on other hondas and replaced a motor before it should be straight forward. Like others have said on this forum DO NOT mess with the ball joints!

 

[NSXclear]

Get some tool box drawer liner mats to use as fender covers. They are about $3 each. Buy at least four of them.

They work very well. Very soft and are non-slip. You can put parts and tools on them.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66948

 

[I1O101I]

I would have paid to see how you pulled that motor out from underneath that NSX.

Wow, that's a lot of work, my recommendation to makes life so much easier with a snap on center lift.

Chris and I pulling the motor

Bryan

 

[gsrboy]

Guys, I am stuck with a difficult decision. I am going to order pistons soon, but I am having second thoughts about turbo. I am debating if I should go NA (raised compression, built heads, cams+valve train, ITB). Will it take away from the nsx if I put FI in it? I mean it is an awesome car should I be the one to mess it up?

What would you do? Any suggestions?

 

[Cozmo]

TURBO! :biggrin:

 

[Thanhnsx]

Guys, I am stuck with a difficult decision. I am going to order pistons soon, but I am having second thoughts about turbo. I am debating if I should go NA (raised compression, built heads, cams+valve train, ITB). Will it take away from the nsx if I put FI in it? I mean it is an awesome car should I be the one to mess it up?

What would you do? Any suggestions?

Tough decision. I was thinking the same, either Allmotor or FI.

But I made my final decision and decided to just stick to my main plan which will be FI.

For some reason. I have a feeling sometime in the future after being turboed I would be bored and would want to switch over and experiment with a ALL Motor build since that's where I was good at in the past.

Can't go wrong with both. All motor build sounds really fun tho.

 

[myhui]

I am debating if I should go NA (raised compression, built heads, cams+valve train, ITB

Do it step by step. That means you go NA first, build it as good as you can, learn a lot about the motor in the process, then tear it down and build a FI version.

I've always wondered how ITB trumpets should be shaped according to bore/stroke ratio and max rpm. Maybe you want to experiment on a flow bench to find out, instead of building it all up and then find out the power isn't there because of a wrong match.

Next step would be to tune the NA engine with ITB on an engine dyno, like they do at JGE. That's the best way to get a good fuel and ignition map, since you can run constant rpm at a wide range of throttle openings.

Final step, if you're truly serious, is to burn several hundred dollars' worth of gasoline and run engine for several hours on dyno at max power. Then take it apart to see which parts are close to failure or are the most worn out.

 

[stevenlee]

It depends on what you want. If yo want low-end torque (which is a lot of fun) maybe a high compression NA build is best.
By the look of your work, going turbo would not "mess it up". Since you're doing the work yourself you can afford to take the time needed to do a work of art.
If you do go turbo, I doubt that you would ever go back. If you stick with NA, you may wonder what it would be like to go turbo.
I ended up going with a built motor with twin turbos so I wouldn't have to redo it again soon. I wanted low end and high end, even at the sake of having more complexity. Mine is a project car so I wanted to have things to tinker with. The turbo may offer more variables that you either like or don't like. It's easy to dial up more turbo power, but then you have to solve the traction problem (spinning rear tires), tuning, safety issues, etc. If you are thinking of going turbo, you should also consider the intercooling and meth/water injection systems that you would be using. You may also want to modify the VVIS system, delete the EGR system, increase the cooling capacity, use larger wheels, tires and brakes, change the MAP sensor, etc, etc, etc.

 

[gsrboy]

I decided to go the NA route. Just order some pistons 11.5:1 CP 93mm so its about 3.2L. More update on progress once I get the pistons, and start the build! =)

Cozmo we will meet one day. You can take me for a ride in the turbo nsx and ill do the same for you in the NA. :wink:

 

[Cozmo]

Good luck!

 

[synergy004]

Very nice, what I done in the past is build the motor as you have done sleeving etc and build up of the weak points as you started with the sleeving process, pistons, rods etc. I am too doing the same with sleeves (Benson) good choice though. A lot of research and questions with those who have done so. Are you planninng on upgrading the clutch and replacing coolant hoses etc? Your at a good position to do so since this is all out unless it has been changed within the past. I would run it all motor to get a complete good break in for piece of mind. You stated you will run the car on the dyno which I presume is to seat the new rings etc. Feel the car out but it looks as with your higher compression you will be at All motor which in the end will limit you with power, not saying you won't have good power but I never liked being limited (good point is no one will suspect besides the ones who know your built. =) In many cases I look forward to your completion and result. Good luck with the build.
Forced induction (turbo is so addicting) I just hope in the end you don't have the case of the go fast crack pipe and turn to FI after this NA build which would cost more time which seems in many cases gives you experience in what you have accomplished so far. I always talk myself out of a plan with too much thinking but a sought out plan is a good one . Anyways carry on any updates?

=g=