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Help! Driving to track and have problem

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I'm driving to Road America, bedding in my brake pads with some heavy braking, and the car developed a violent shake when I brake. Now the Anti Lock light came on. Anyone have any ideas? I'll tear the car apart when I get there. I have my Blackberry and can check responses.
 
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Sounds like you have an uneven transfer of brake pad material not an uncommon problem. As for the ABS I don't believe it is related to the problem with the brakes, does the ABS light come on within the first minute of driving? I so then you just have a stuck valve.
 
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Make sure that both master cylinders have fluid in them. The ABS one is in front and below the main one. It is smaller. Shuddering could be if you are using race pads. They will get better once heated up. Steve will be there today, (black nsx with volk gt-c) he can help you.
 
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Briank said:
Sounds like you have an uneven transfer of brake pad material
I agree. If they shudder when you get them hot, and they don't when they are cold, that is almost certainly the case.

What to do about it? If you (or another NSX owner at the track) have a spare set of front rotors, put them on, and when you get back home, turn or buff the old ones and then re-bed the pads before using them on the track. If you don't, just drive on them and let them shudder - but if you do, check the rotors between sessions to make sure you don't have any cracks developing in them (small spiderweb-like cracking is okay, anything more noticeable, like a crack 1/2 inch long or more, is not and shouldn't be used on the track). Also keep in mind that the cracks tend to fill in on the track when the brakes get hot, and open up as they cool down, so check them at the start of your sessions, not just at the end.
 
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I guess a Blackberry doesn't work in Elkhart Lake.

Had two problems. Was heavy into the ABS last night trying to bed pads in the rain. ABS fluid was low.

The shaking was very violent the first sessiion when light pressure was applied. I've never seen anything like it. Under heavy pressure it was better. I thought rotors may have been warped, but it eventually went away.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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before switching to a race pad you should always at least scuff the old rotors with one of those scotch brite arbor pads and a drill to remove old brake pad material. As for ABS, on the track I have removed the main ABS fuse to disable completly. If the light bothers you you can always put a piece of black electrical tape over it. haha. anyway good luck with it.
 
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I always stay with the same brand for street and track pads, it helps to prevent this judder issue which can be caused by different pad compounds not transfering at the same rate. There can be a tendancey for deposits to build up un evenly and cause that vibration if different materials are not compatable. That being said, my track pads will always take 2-3 laps for them to get smooth by coming up to temperature, both pads and rotors. The hotter they get, the better they work! I like the Carbotech XP-8 for the track and Panther + for the road, FYI.
 
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If your rotors were brand new and that's why you were bedding them it could be that they just needed to be turned a bit. Last year I had this issue at Gingerman and it wasn't until I got home and took them to the shop and had a bit shaved off that they said the rotors weren't right.
 
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