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I just put Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 in the tranny and engine

I've been using the Signature Series as well for the past 5 months and just did an oil change. I'm awaiting my Blackstone Labs report on it any day now.

It's 0W30 - maybe that's why the valvetrain is a little louder?

I know the 5W30 regular Amsoil was significantly quieter than the 5W30 Mobil1. I didn't notice any difference in noise going from the 5W30 Amsoil to the Signature Series. Just a little more oil consumption as expected (instead of 0 quarts makeup after 4000 miles, I had to add 0.5qts over 5000 miles).

Dave
 
Been using Amsoil 0W-30 Signature series for a few months already in my engine. I haven't noticed any differences in performance from Amsoil 5W-30, but I do notice my valves being more ticky and louder.

sso_quart_350pxh.jpg

Sure they are the valves making noise or the cams?
 
I'm not sure, but with the engine cover off, it's a distinct ticking sound on idle or when I let off the gas. I had my valves adjusted about 10k miles ago.
 
I'm not sure, but with the engine cover off, it's a distinct ticking sound on idle or when I let off the gas. I had my valves adjusted about 10k miles ago.

ur also running a lighter weight oil.

however that should stop ticking when it's warmed up.

is the tick more pronounced when the engine is cold?
 
Dave,

Got an update from Blackstone Labs?

Here ya go.

Engine will be rebuilt (by me) to support my custom twin turbo design this Spring/Summer :smile:

I wanted to get a sample of this oil to see if anything weird stood out. Doesn't look like it, so I'll be using it after the rebuild.

Dave
 
Here ya go.

Engine will be rebuilt (by me) to support my custom twin turbo design this Spring/Summer :smile:

I wanted to get a sample of this oil to see if anything weird stood out. Doesn't look like it, so I'll be using it after the rebuild.

Dave

I'm surprised what was in the "comments" section of the Blackstone report doesn't concern you. It doesn't sound like a affirmation to me.
Did you ask this fellow at Blackstone what oil he would suggest after a rebuild if it was HIS money and motor? I'd like to hear that.
 
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I'm surprised what was in the "comments" section of the Blackstone report doesn't concern you. It doesn't sound like a affirmation to me.
Did you ask this fellow at Blackstone what oil he would suggest after a rebuild if it was HIS money and motor? I'd like to hear that.

Sorry, didn't see this until now.

I've been doing oil tests on all of my vehicles about once a year, regardless of how many miles were put on them.

One thing you learn after looking at a bunch of these tests results over time is that there is a HUGE variability in the results. Almost to the point that these oil tests are probably not worth the money IMO. It's just more of a novelty I believe.

The right way to do an oil analysis is on an engine that is running.

Also, ANY decent full synthetic oil is more than adequate IMO for ANY high performance engine on the road. Racing would just require more frequent oil changes. The Amsoil Signature Series is probably a waste of money for my application and change interval. Oh well, I've only got a few more gallons to use up :smile.

My $0.02.:smile:

Dave
 
I'm surprised what was in the "comments" section of the Blackstone report doesn't concern you. It doesn't sound like a affirmation to me.
Did you ask this fellow at Blackstone what oil he would suggest after a rebuild if it was HIS money and motor? I'd like to hear that.


This is similar to the oil analysis we did after a refurbished engine replaced our minivan. The third oil analysis should show if things are settling down with iron, copper and lead; our readings were 33, 7 and 9 respectively.

If not, then we will have a call to the engine rebuilding company - but then again they are warrantying the engine for 3 years irrespective of mileage. I doubt the minivan will last that long given its use.
 
I just put 20w50 Amsoil in my S&S 113 cu chopper and its noisier than all He!!
Draining it this weekend and back to Mobil 1.
Trev
 
ur also running a lighter weight oil.

however that should stop ticking when it's warmed up.

is the tick more pronounced when the engine is cold?

This is incorrect, at operating temps a 0W30 is exactly the same as a 5W30 or 10W30.

The first number is cold start thickness, second number is operating temp thickness.

Also, 0 weight at room temp is still thicker than 30 weight at operating temps. The lower first number just helps reduce cold start wear.
 
The one of the current popular oils around the track day circles is Shell Rotella T6 5W40.

I just switched my NSX to it this spring so I haven't had the chance to get a UOA on it yet, but here are some from other cars after some track use.

For what it costs it works amazingly well, and look at that zinc. It's $20/gal at Wal-Mart.

Here's the UOA I had done of Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, after 3000 miles, and quite a bit of tracking.
Oil type with viscosity - Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Miles on the oil - 3000, 2 months, 150-200 track miles Vehicle type/engine - 06 Mazdaspeed6, 2.3L turbo direct injection 70,000 miles Driving conditions - normal/sprinted, 50/50 highway/city, summer temps 70-90F. Track conditions - 1 day oil temps @ 260-275F for 1.5hrs, 1 day @ 250F for 1hr, ambient temps 70-90F

UOA1.jpg


Here is 5-hours of track time on my turbo miata with 250* oil temps on Rotella T6 Synth


TFSI1.jpg
 
be careful. used mobil 1 mtf in the manual tranny and the rear end kept locking up. had to change back to honda mtf. i'm never using anything except honda mft. the tranny and diff share same case.
 
The one of the current popular oils around the track day circles is Shell Rotella T6 5W40.

Have you read the older posts on here about using 40W on the track? For our tight clearances and oil passageways compared to German and American engines, 40W may not be the right choice.

BTW, I use the required 40W Rotella in an old musclecar for the zinc. But, I would not run it in my NSX.

My $0.02.

Dave
 
Have you read the older posts on here about using 40W on the track? For our tight clearances and oil passageways compared to German and American engines, 40W may not be the right choice.

BTW, I use the required 40W Rotella in an old musclecar for the zinc. But, I would not run it in my NSX.

My $0.02.

Dave

If you really choose to run higher viscosity than the recommended 30weight, castrol 0w-30(also known as german castrol) is formulated towards the "thicker" side of the 30 weight scale; and among the several benefits of german castrol 0w-30.
 
Have you read the older posts on here about using 40W on the track? For our tight clearances and oil passageways compared to German and American engines, 40W may not be the right choice.

BTW, I use the required 40W Rotella in an old musclecar for the zinc. But, I would not run it in my NSX.

My $0.02.

Dave

At op temps a 40 weight is fairly close to a 30 weight. And with the higher oil temps the engine will see on the track, the difference in thickness of the 40W would be negligible, if not thinner, when compared to a 30 weight just cruising down the highway.
 
If you really choose to run higher viscosity than the recommended 30weight, castrol 0w-30(also known as german castrol) is formulated towards the "thicker" side of the 30 weight scale; and among the several benefits of german castrol 0w-30.

That is a great oil as well, but a bit pricey, it's about $9/qt everywhere I've seen it.
 
That is a great oil as well, but a bit pricey, it's about $9/qt everywhere I've seen it.

Yes, its pricy, but when it goes on sale like it did yesterday, its a reasonable deal considering its a true PAO/Ester base oil(marketed along side group 3 castrol synthetics) for the same price as Group3 hydrocracked oils. Its 29.99 for 5 quarts including fram filter. I use the oil in the NSX then use the fram in my crap car.
 
This is similar to the oil analysis we did after a refurbished engine replaced our minivan. The third oil analysis should show if things are settling down with iron, copper and lead; our readings were 33, 7 and 9 respectively.

If not, then we will have a call to the engine rebuilding company - but then again they are warrantying the engine for 3 years irrespective of mileage. I doubt the minivan will last that long given its use.



Wow oil testing on a mini van LOL
 
At op temps a 40 weight is fairly close to a 30 weight. And with the higher oil temps the engine will see on the track, the difference in thickness of the 40W would be negligible, if not thinner, when compared to a 30 weight just cruising down the highway.

I understand that, just wanted to make sure other folks do too before putting heavier/lighter oil in.

First you need to know your oil temps on the track. Then you need to know what viscosity and shear protection you feel comfortable with running at those temps. The generic viscosity vs. temperature charts on the internet will then help you determine what weight to run. Finally, you can do oil analyses like I do to actually measure your viscosity (Blackstone measures it at 210F), which is nice because my temperature sender in the oil pan can get up around 240F.

Happy racing!

Dave
 
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