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JL Audio 10" 12" w6 sub question???

Joined
19 February 2008
Messages
365
Location
San Jose, CA
Hi everyone,

Is there anyone or company out there that makes a sub enclosure for the leg area that would fit a 10" or 12" w6 JL audio?

Thanks for looking!
 
Not sure if you would have the depth but science of speed makes a sub enclosure. User Zetoolman used to make subs for the NSX but not sure if he does anymore. I thought they were the nicest looking of the custom sub enclosures I have seen.
 
If you havent purchased the w6 yet, I highly recommend the w3. I have it in Hals V2 carbon fiber box w a small spacer. I would be suprised if there was an NSX that hit harder.

The w6 needs at least a cubic foot because of its displacement. Thats hard to do without taking out your glovebox or more footspace. In short, doesnt seem worth it.
 
If you havent purchased the w6 yet, I highly recommend the w3. I have it in Hals V2 carbon fiber box w a small spacer. I would be suprised if there was an NSX that hit harder.

The w6 needs at least a cubic foot because of its displacement. Thats hard to do without taking out your glovebox or more footspace. In short, doesnt seem worth it.

No I haven't purchase the JL sub yet. I wanted to see what kind of options they have out there first. I was thinking that a w3 should do fine also. But it doesnt hurt go to a little bigger:biggrin:.

Thanks to everyone above for the helpful tips.:cool:
 
If you havent purchased the w6 yet, I highly recommend the w3. I have it in Hals V2 carbon fiber box w a small spacer. I would be suprised if there was an NSX that hit harder.

The w6 needs at least a cubic foot because of its displacement. Thats hard to do without taking out your glovebox or more footspace. In short, doesnt seem worth it.


Where did you get the Hals v2 carbon box? Got any pics?
 
If you havent purchased the w6 yet, I highly recommend the w3. I have it in Hals V2 carbon fiber box w a small spacer. I would be suprised if there was an NSX that hit harder.

The w6 needs at least a cubic foot because of its displacement. Thats hard to do without taking out your glovebox or more footspace. In short, doesnt seem worth it.

Polyfill should help trick the sub into thinking it was playing in a 1cf. enclosure. On another note, I believe that another member installed a W6 into the V1 sub box. Can't recall what his impressions of it were though, a search should show it.

I just installed the V1 box into my car, and have the V2 in the closet. I haven't fired it up just yet but hopefully by the weekend I will.
 
93....that's a bold statement

Agreed. Especially with some of your budgets! It impresses me everytime I hear it. Ive had a few stereo systems that were a few thousand watts and this one is probably my favorite. The w3 is very musical , above average accuracy and plays pretty low for most 10s. I wish you could hear it.

Where did you get the Hals v2 carbon box? Got any pics?

From Hal (Last one)
 

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Polyfill should help trick the sub into thinking it was playing in a 1cf. enclosure. On another note, I believe that another member installed a W6 into the V1 sub box. Can't recall what his impressions of it were though, a search should show it.

Polyfill does help. A w6 in a v1 will beat my setup. The w6 does also sound slightly better than a w3. A cheap sub in the right box is better than an expensive one in the wrong box. The w6 needs at least .75 cubes (.675 + .07 displacement) whereas the w3 needs .675 (.625 + .05). The v2 is exactly .675.

Is that an audible difference? Some will argue. A smaller than spec box does kill the lower frequencies. 10s already have enough problems with that. Even worst, smaller than spec makes that punchy one note bass. We only have one sub. Why not make the best of it. I say get the box first, then look for a sub
 
Here is a photo of the final install of my custom glass box with an internal volume of .86. I faced the driver towards the front of the car using the space between the woofer and the car as a port of sorts. It vents towards the center console and hits extemely hard and is very musical. Gave up a bit of floorspace but it did turn out better than I expected.

Also removed the center speaker and reworked the rear bulkhead while mounting the xover and routing the ipod and AEM cables into the center console.


 
Here is a photo of the final install of my custom glass box with an internal volume of .86. I faced the driver towards the front of the car using the space between the woofer and the car as a port of sorts. It vents towards the center console and hits extemely hard and is very musical. Gave up a bit of floorspace but it did turn out better than I expected.

Also removed the center speaker and reworked the rear bulkhead while mounting the xover and routing the ipod and AEM cables into the center console.



The pictures require a password to see them? I had the same problem when I tried to enlarge your tweeter picture. Can you just attach them to your post, that might work better. We still can't see the box, just the shape of it, not unless it's covered in carpet.

Is the sub enclosure permanently part of the car or is it removable? Let's see pictures from all angles if it's removable.
 
I will see if I can find pics of my old NSX, but I had custom slim boxes built to house one 10" JL W3 behind each seat. Sounded awesome, ask the guys in Chicago that saw it...
 
photos are now public. The box is attached to the car...it would be crazy to have a large projectile in such a small car. I will see about getting some photos during the construction process for you. The general process for building a glass box is to build the frame in the space you are trying to match. This allows the utilization of all the available angles on the sides etc, then you remove that skeleton and start making the frame for the glass, glass the box, determine the volume, match the volume with an appropriate sub and that you have the match the driver to the space you have available.
 
photos are now public. The box is attached to the car...it would be crazy to have a large projectile in such a small car. I will see about getting some photos during the construction process for you. The general process for building a glass box is to build the frame in the space you are trying to match. This allows the utilization of all the available angles on the sides etc, then you remove that skeleton and start making the frame for the glass, glass the box, determine the volume, match the volume with an appropriate sub and that you have the match the driver to the space you have available.

Clean interior, looks good (despite the dust picked up when the pictures are enlarged). How does the car look from the outside, any mods?


I believe this is very similar to what Hal (Zetoolman) did when building his enclosures, at least the build process.

Why did you chose a Kenwood sub? How do you replace it?

Sorry to the OP for getting off topic, you can PM me if you want with the answers or we can take this to another thread.
 
1 behind each seat? hmm. I gotta check out my back seat..

I'm sure I have a picture of his setup in my folder, I just have to look for it. Another member on here (name escapes me ATM, but black wide body with JLine wheels) has 4-10" subs mounted behind both driver/passenger seats.
 
are you asking me why a Kenwood sub? I didnt use a Kenwood. Easily replaced if needed. Speakers shouldnt need replacing....usually its underpowering of a speaker that causes damage...or distortion from a nasty source. If you did, just take out box mounts and replace the sub and remount with same screws. speaking of blowing speakers...There used to be a station in the NC, Raleigh-Durham area, that would put out this horrible distortion occasionally that would literally blow every speaker in the car at once. I thought it was a fluke, dealer replaced them all and about a month later the station put out some sort of killer engineering goof again and there they went again. I never tuned into that station again after another system replacment from the dealer. Weirdest thing I ever saw with the radio.

side note, I do love my new HD radio tuner for low frequency response(highs too). HD Radio Tuners have a bit to go in terms of software revisions but they sound SOOOOO MUCH better than traditional radio and have killer SNRs. I have a few Day Sequerra tuners for the home system. These show modulaton levels, sideband levels and currently are some of the best sounding sources I own(with the right antenna and atmospheric conditions to facilitate wave propigation. They also output a 110 Ohm digital AES signal. Oops Iam way off topic. sorry. If you can't tell I am an audio junky big time.

I dont worry about dust. I build my stuff to USE, not show. Other mods are high boost CTSC, intercooler, suspension slammed down, AEM, tuned by Mase, all the type R sway and chassis stuff, CT airbox. Looking for a paint job now but the quality I want, I cant justify the cash to myself. plus then I wouldnt look as slow to all the TL-S who try and take me if I were all shiny and new:)
 
Beautiful attention to detail on the install. I really like how you redid the vinyl on the rear bulkhead with leather. That looks really nice!

One quick question... It looks like in the trunk you redid all the carpet. How did you get the carpet to smoothly mold against the vertical recessed area on the left (where you put the flat tire) where it curves in and then back out?

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Beautiful attention to detail on the install. I really like how you redid the vinyl on the rear bulkhead with leather. That looks really nice!

One quick question... It looks like in the trunk you redid all the carpet. How did you get the carpet to smoothly mold against the vertical recessed area on the left (where you put the flat tire) where it curves in and then back out?

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My guess is that he re-carpeted over the OEM piece.
 
My guess is that he re-carpeted over the OEM piece.

Yes, I know that. However, the OEM is a molded carpet and when you try and recover it is almost impossible to get it to recess like the OEM in the area against the rear firewall where the spare goes. You can get it to curve in, but at a certain point it either wants to sit flat or start to bunch in and/or crease to make the curve. Understand what I am getting at?
 
Yes, I know that. However, the OEM is a molded carpet and when you try and recover it is almost impossible to get it to recess like the OEM in the area against the rear firewall where the spare goes. You can get it to curve in, but at a certain point it either wants to sit flat or start to bunch in and/or crease to make the curve. Understand what I am getting at?

its easy, carpet has some stretch to it....something like his trunk sould take a good intaller an afternoon to do...

you must have been using backed carpet, if so you can steam it, which will soften the backing and make it all fit perfect.

they just used a car audio carpet, you can see by the cut seams, screws holding crap together etc etc....this is really a basic install for most car audio shops...atleast ones that would sell the pioneer and focal stuff he is using.

FWIW i also have done a woofer firing forward, and one firing up....his box looks WAY to big for me, i would not let anyone ride in the car like that (sorry).
the woofier firing up did the best, single 8 inch, ported...it used the firewall like a horn (kinda like an old camero back glass)...that thing pounded...sounded great too, i just didnt like giving up ANY room.

I now run 2 8 inch pioneer flat woofers behind the seats....works really well except for the lowest of lows. My car is so loud anyway that i couldnt hear or feel that anyway so i use a 6 db filter @ 30 htz.
 
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