Need help, civic wont start after 7days parking.

[LJSB]

Yes a stuck thermostat would cause a car to overheat. You will also have no heat in the car when you put your heater on. It's very inexpensive to replace a thermostat so that's an easy problem to fix. Maybe you got a bad replacement starter.

I'm not trying to solve the OP's problem but I feel your post needs to be more clear.


A thermostat stuck closed can cause a car to overheat especially if the ambient temps are above 40 degrees F.

A thermostat stuck open will not cause a car to overheat. You also would have no or little heat in very cold weather if the thermostat is stuck open.

 

[syndicate]

Ok. I would unplug the alarm completely. You said there was an ignition wire coming from the alarm to the cars wiring. Is the car's starter wire (black wire with a white stripe) cut in half? Make sure the starter wire is connected without alarm interferance.
Is the gsr swap new or have you been running it for a while. You might have wires not correctly hooked up if the swap is being installed for the first time.
If you want to completely rule out the starter itself, there is a small black terminal plugged into the side of the starter. This is the solenoid trigger. I cannot remember off the top of my head whether it needs a ground signal or 12v, but if you unplug it and give the exposed teminal (on the starter) the correct signal and the thick cable going to the battery is still hooked up, the car should crank regardless of the clutch position.
Please verify the car is not in gear first!!!!
I would also hit the solder joints of the main relay with an iron anyway to help rule it out.

 

[BTL3.0]

Ive been driving this swap for 4 yrs with no issue. This is the first time it has ever done something like this.

Yes the ign wire is black with white stripe. It was cut in half to wire up the alarm starter kill wire. I did bypass the alrm by reconnecting the ign wire to itself without starter kill wire.

I also did the starter solenoid test. Thick wire from starter to red battery post. When i did this, i can slightly hear the solenoid move, it click very slightly.

Im away on family emergency, therefore i cant not run anymore diagnostic or try to replace the starter.

 

[BTL3.0]

Just an update for anyone following this.
I just got back into town yesterday. Today i took the battery and starter off to go get it tested. Both tested out good. No replacement needed. Battery was checked twice at two different time.

I took a known working battery from my other dd car to try. Same thing, no go.. Nothing happen, only hear click from starter relay, main relay, and fuel pump priming.

I returned the starter i bought ince i didnt need it
I then tested the voltage going into the clutch interlock switch which shows: 12.33-12.36v. I bypass the switch using the paper clip method. No go.

I then test the voltage from neg. battery terminal to starter terminal wire (unplug from starter) and it shows: 12.3-12.4v while someone turn the key to crank/ign. Repeated 4x, same result. So this mean the starter are getting voltage just fine.

Check the starter relay (new one will cost $55). Put key in, turn one click, the relay made a click. I was holding the relay in my hand, so i felt it too. Turn key to ON, then to IGN and the relay click again. Turn key to OFF and relay click. So the relay still ok, correct???

I then tried to jump it. Hooked up jumper cable. Go To start, nothing happen. Same as before, as expected because i tried this before and it did not wrk.

Kept trying, wiggle the key out of frustration, kept cranking, and cranking, and cranking.

Then some how in the mist of all that frustration cranking, she starts. Let it idle for couple mins. Drove her around the block couple rounds. Engine warm up to normal temp, she did not overheat this time.. Turn her off, wait a bit. Start it up and it came alive. Idle is smooth.

Work called so i had to leave it the way it was. Drove my other car to work.
Got home around 8pm. Went out to start her, BAM! She fired right up. Like nothing ever happen.

I did clean the IGN switch right after the problem started, since its common for not starting issue.

So now i dont know what actually cause it.. It narrowed down to either the ign switch or maybe fuel pump.

But if the fuel pump went out, would u still hear it priming the line? I still get fuel pressure everytime i try to crank it. I gave a fuel gauge ontop of the fuel filter, so when my friend crank it, it still show pressure going up.

So for now, she works. No need to replace anything, not even the t-stat..no overheating.. But i will try again tomorrow, will drive it to work on the highway and really see if it will overheat.

Stay tune. I will update more when i get more.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[Hapa88]

Kept trying, wiggle the key out of frustration, kept cranking, and cranking, and cranking.

Then some how in the mist of all that frustration cranking, she starts.

So it cranked over this whole time? Your first post said it didn't crank.
Anyway, glad it seemed to have fixed itself. Sounds like it could be the ignition switch. I'd get some electronics cleaner and spray it in there to clean it out.

 

[BTL3.0]

When i said crank i meant my hand turning the key to IGN, from II to III(ign). The whole time. Turn to ign, let go, turn to ign, let go... Repeat, repeat.. Then some how, somewhere it start.. Y? I dunno.

Can i just buy the ign switch cable withouth having to buy the key cylinder and key? I dont want to have two keys. One to unlock, one to start car.

 

[syndicate]

Get an old priest and a young priest and perform an exorcism.


Sounds like the switch is the culprit.

 

[BTL3.0]

Can I just replace the ign switch without the key cylinder??

 

[Hapa88]

Let's first establish what exactly is happening since it definitely isn't clear from your description.
When I use the word "crank", I use it to mean "crank over" as in the the engine is cranking over.

When you put the key in the ignition and turn to start the car does it:
a) turn the motor over continuously, but the engine does not fire up or start.
b) cause a clicking noise, but the engine & starter do not move
c) intermittantly switch between a) & b)
d) something else not listed

 

[BTL3.0]

Ok lets clarify a little because i think i confused everyne with my wordings.
Put key in. Turn to start car like normal, it wont start. So this is what i hear.
Turn key from 0 to Ign:
a) Fuel pump buzz(priming fuel line)
b) Main Relay Click
c) Starter relay click

Then

Dead silence. No sound from motor, no sound from starter.. Nothing.. All the lights and radio inside and outside works.. Headlight, blinker, brakes..even the door chime work.

Repeat turning key from 0 to IGN
I hear a, b, c again...
And will only hear a, b, c.. No matter how many time i repeat the process.

No motion from motor, no motion from starter or it solenoid.. Had someone turn key to IGN while i listen for starter click under hood.. Nothing..

Then some how it started yesterday..

I hope that clarify things up a little.

Im starting to look at ign switch on ebay.. Just in case.

I drove the civic to work today, no issue whatsoever. Drove it home perfect. No overheat.. Nothing. As if there were nothing wrong in the first place.

Now, could ECU be faulty?? I am running a jdm p72 square ecu, been running that for 4yrs now, as oppose to the rectangle USDM p72 ecu.. No chip or ecu mod.. Just stock ecu.

 

[BTL3.0]

It did it again last night. Got off work, went to start and it wont. Hear one noticable click from starter then went silence again. Push start it and drove home. Start it this morning and it start good. No hiccup.
So still unsure.

 

[Hapa88]

I'd try spraying some electronic cleaner into the Key cylinder. Sounds like the ignition switch in the key cylinder could have some gummed up contacts.

 

[BTL3.0]

You mean spray it directly into the key hole? It wont mess anything up will it? Ive never done that before. I do have a can of that in the garage, will try it out tomorrow afternoon.

 

[BTL3.0]

UPDATE!!!
I may have fixed the problem. After hours of research and tests this might be the fix after all.
Read on honda-tech forum and a guy with an accord had the same problem. He replaced just about evrything and still dead. It turns out he somehow knock the Ground Wire from Tranny to Chassis off it ring terminal. Well, it was loose. Hence all his problem.

So from that i went ahead and replace the same ground wire. Tranny to Chassis Ground wire. Went to start and she fired right up. No hiccup.. All dash lights lit up fully. After further examination of that wire, i notice a lot of green oxidation had build up on both end of the wire on the ring terimals.

I also replaced the ignition switch harness, $28, thinkinh its the switch since its also a common failure on civic. That didnt help at all. Wasted money, but i wouldnt have known that at the moment.

So my total cost for this repair minus a month if headache.
$28 ign switch from ebay (could've done without, now i know)
$5 4gauge cable from walmart
= $33

I went ahead and replaced the rear left brake caliper too since it was sticking. Ebrake only worked on one side.
$60 Refurb caliper
$7 valvoline synth brake fluid
=$67+$33
Grand total $100. Not bad for doing it myself and now i know even more about the car..


So in the end, if the ground look green or discolored, replace it first. Since its the cheapest repair out of everything.