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Prospeed rdx injectors & ecu rom tune kit

I went to the track this weekend and i was even with a new Porsche C4S on the straights. (killed him in the corners though)
 
Nothing yet... waiting for someone to step up =)

Are you only interested in having someone locally do a 3.2L FIC setup? I'm more than willing to invest my time and pay for my own dyno/tuning locally to get before/after as well as some tuning tidbits to share with you directly, assuming we can work out a very good deal on the products. :)

Message me if you think this is something feasible.
 
Brian,
What do you suggest for a 2002 3.2 with a whipple sc using low boost and AEM FI/C. Would that be the Injector Dynamic 725cc?

Thanks
Mike
 
I'm in the process of using rdx injectors in my low boost. waiting on Brian's high pressure tune ;)

Cool, i was hoping those would work. Think i will any have any problems using the stock fuel pump with this and the ctsc (AEM FI/C)?


Thanks
Mike
 
Cool, i was hoping those would work. Think i will any have any problems using the stock fuel pump with this and the ctsc (AEM FI/C)?


Thanks
Mike
Honestly, if it was me.. the stock fuel pump would be the first thing to be replaced. I think it *would* work though but i'm not one to take such a risk.
How is that going to work? What year is your car?

is the RDX injectors at 410cc even sufficient for a supercharged NSX?:confused:
At 56-58psi of rail pressure they are enough to support 400hp. Keep in mind.. the factory 240cc injectors have to be pressurized at ~109psi in order to flow enough volume to support the 7lbs of boost. In terms of controlling the injectors for an OBD1 when not in boost, that's what I need Brian for :smile:. I prefer to use the F/IC for boost only conditions. Credit goes to DDozier for helping me conceptualize this setup.

From the first post: At 58.8psi they flow 510cc/min
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Honestly, if it was me.. the stock fuel pump would be the first thing to be replaced. I think it *would* work though but i'm not one to take such a risk.


At 56-58psi of rail pressure they are enough to support 400hp. Keep in mind.. the factory 240cc injectors have to be pressurized at ~109psi in order to flow enough volume to support the 7lbs of boost. In terms of controlling the injectors for an OBD1 when not in boost, that's what I need Brian for :smile:. I prefer to use the F/IC for boost only conditions. Credit goes to DDozier for helping me conceptualize this setup.

If you do that, you should dyno the car with the stock set up, and then dyno it after with the new injectors and FIC. I would be very interested to see the results. I have heard you won't get much more power at all if you stay at the same boost. The nice thing about going FIC is you can go to 8 or 9 lbs and have much better control than the old school set up.
 
If you do that, you should dyno the car with the stock set up, and then dyno it after with the new injectors and FIC. I would be very interested to see the results. I have heard you won't get much more power at all if you stay at the same boost. The nice thing about going FIC is you can go to 8 or 9 lbs and have much better control than the old school set up.
I might do a before dyno if it is convenient (it often isn't). I'm also not after the Nth bit of hp/tq. I'm after the cleanest combustion I can get, at a budget price, and super solid AFRs. With added meth/water, i'm looking for a solid and dependable track ready setup. The HP/TQ numbers will fall where they fall. There are already a lot of stock low boost dynos out there. I have no reason to think mine will be different with the basic I/H/E mods.

I've been data logging a lot with the stock Autorotor CTSC setup. My AFRs at partial throttle (closed loop) generally are stoic. It's during partial boost and sometimes even WOT (open loop) the AFRs fluctuate between 11.3 and 12. I meticulously tuned that darn RRFPR and that's the best I could do. It's the nature of the RRFPR and the Boost-a-pump. I've got OCD and I really want to clean this up w/o using an EMS. I like keeping the factory ECU in place. Since it's difficult to tune the Short & Long Term Fuel trims with an F/IC on the OBD1 I hope with Brian's tune the car will run stoic out of boost with the RDX injectors (58psi). I also hope to harness all the benefits the RDX mod provides on the NA cars while out of boost. I'll use the F/IC to take over injector and timing control once in boost... that's the plan at least :redface:

Yes, Brian has tried to convince to simply use the F/IC w/o his chip but i'm a stubborn guy! haha
 
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Honestly, if it was me.. the stock fuel pump would be the first thing to be replaced. I think it *would* work though but i'm not one to take such a risk.


At 56-58psi of rail pressure they are enough to support 400hp. Keep in mind.. the factory 240cc injectors have to be pressurized at ~109psi in order to flow enough volume to support the 7lbs of boost. In terms of controlling the injectors for an OBD1 when not in boost, that's what I need Brian for :smile:. I prefer to use the F/IC for boost only conditions. Credit goes to DDozier for helping me conceptualize this setup.

From the first post: At 58.8psi they flow 510cc/min

So to get this straight. The 240cc with, i guess a boost-a-pump would be running at 109psi and if i change to the RDX the psi would be half that. So the pump can run 56-58psi without the boost-a-pump?

If the car was a 91 with 100k+ miles and i was doubling the fuel psi i would probably be more worried about the pump. I was just wondering if the pump could support the sc psi requirement without boosting it.

Thanks
Mike
 
So to get this straight. The 240cc with, i guess a boost-a-pump would be running at 109psi and if i change to the RDX the psi would be half that. So the pump can run 56-58psi without the boost-a-pump?

If the car was a 91 with 100k+ miles and i was doubling the fuel psi i would probably be more worried about the pump. I was just wondering if the pump could support the sc psi requirement without boosting it.

Thanks
Mike
Mike, probably best we not derail Brian's thread even more :redface:. I'll be happy to happy to share my $0.02 on a different thread.

***eagerly awaiting the high pressure RDX tune!***
 
Mike, probably best we not derail Brian's thread even more :redface:. I'll be happy to happy to share my $0.02 on a different thread.

***eagerly awaiting the high pressure RDX tune!***

No problem, i understand. Thank you for your help.

Didn't think we were derailing it since the discussion was about the product.


Mike
 
I also thought the information was helpful. "The more you know"
 
So the pump can run 56-58psi without the boost-a-pump?
I am not sure if a stock (even if brand new) can flow enough to support 56-58psi 410cc injectors at 12-14 volts. I do not know the flow rate of the stock pump but it's in the archives somewhere. This is why the boost-a-pump is used to increases the voltage to over-drive the OEM fuel pump so it pushes more fuel and acts like a bigger pump. Also keep in mind your factory fuel pump has an in-line resistor in place that drops the voltage in low load conditions which is bypassed in a CTSC install.

Something like a Walbro 255 or Denso/Aeromotive equivalent should be able to support this without any issues.
 
I went to the track this weekend and i was even with a new Porsche C4S on the straights. (killed him in the corners though)


Really? Because a C4S has 385hp and I get absolutely smoked on the straights by ANY 997, yet alone an S. :confused:

Following Ray05NSX's 997 C2S. Notice every straight he pulls by a WHOLE BUNCH. Granted the 4S is 121lbs heavier than the C2S, but it's still WAY faster than an NSX.
Sorry, but I call BS on staying even with a 997 C4S unless he was babying it.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JQ72p3Nt9CA?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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I can't believe I am just now coming across this thread!!! :eek:


Just read the first page and I already want to buy. :biggrin:

Will be coming back to read the whole thread.
And then probably putting an order in.... :cool:
 
Really? Because a C4S has 385hp and I get absolutely smoked on the straights by ANY 997, yet alone an S. :confused:

Following Ray05NSX's 997 C2S. Notice every straight he pulls by a WHOLE BUNCH. Granted the 4S is 121lbs heavier than the C2S, but it's still WAY faster than an NSX.
Sorry, but I call BS on staying even with a 997 C4S unless he was babying it.

<IFRAME src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JQ72p3Nt9CA?rel=0" frameBorder=0 width=640 height=360 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

I miss road racing :(. nice driving and beautiful track.
 
Really? Because a C4S has 385hp and I get absolutely smoked on the straights by ANY 997, yet alone an S. :confused:

Following Ray05NSX's 997 C2S. Notice every straight he pulls by a WHOLE BUNCH. Granted the 4S is 121lbs heavier than the C2S, but it's still WAY faster than an NSX.
Sorry, but I call BS on staying even with a 997 C4S unless he was babying it.

<IFRAME height=360 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JQ72p3Nt9CA?rel=0" frameBorder=0 width=640 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

the nerve of some people... you don't know me, yet you dare call me a liar. :rolleyes:
 
the nerve of some people... you don't know me, yet you dare call me a liar. :rolleyes:

I'm going to be nice and call it an exaggeration.

2012 997 C4S - 3131 lbs/385 hp = 8.1 lbs/hp

Assuming we take you at your word that you do in fact have a 250 lbs weight reduction which would required a complete gutting of the interior including a/c, seats, carpet, and lightweight hood, trunk, rear lexan hatch, etc, etc ( in the weight reduction thread you said 150 <--which is believable) and say 300 hp with rdx and mods based on your 259 rwhp dyno.

2750 lbs/300 = 9.2 lbs/hp

Now if we use a realistic weight reduction of 150 lbs
2850/300 = 9.5 lbs/hp

So what would your NSX have to weigh with 300 hp to keep up with a C4S? 2430 lbs.

And therefore -
yet you dare call me a liar.
rolleyes.gif

yes.
 
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