SOS - Oil Pressure Sender Upgrade Kit

[pgilliam1]

I purchased the SOS upragde kit because my oil pressure was never steady. Reading through the threads here, the sending unit seemed like the likely suspect. The OEM sending unit alone costs almost twice what the SOS replacement/relocation kit cost. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the parts, total costs and fast shipping. This is a very nice upgrade and I recommend all older NSX owners install this on their cars.

(My original sending unit was leaking so I thought that was the problem. I took the unit off and sealed it with JB Weld. That did stop my leak, but did not help with the irregular oil pressure readings)

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Thank you for your feedback, we appreciate it!

for more information:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/oil_press_sensor/

-- Chris

 

[EAC]

How was the install?

 

[CL65 Captain]

How was the install?

I wrench on my car, but due to the very tight location of the spot I took it to my shop (Source1) and let them do it on the lift. The EGR tubes on my 2000 made it a real bitch to install because of the tight clearance, so it may be a bit easier on NA1s.

 

[CL65 Captain]

How was the install?

I wrench on my car, but due to the very tight location of the spot I took it to my shop (Source1) and let them do it on the lift. The EGR tubes on my 2000 made it a real bitch to install because of the tight clearance, so it may be a bit easier on NA1s.

My sensor has been rock solid on the track where it use to dip to zero at the end of the straight. My only complaint is that it is much slower reacting than the OEM (when you blip the throttle, there is a delay in indication) and also when the car is off (key in ACC position) and I flip the switch on my Accusump the gauge use to go to 2 as it dumped, now it doesn't even register at all. I use to like that as it was an indication to me that the Accusump valve (electric pressure switch) was working.

 

[e.pie]

Just installed one of these myself. Took about 2 hours, there isn't a whole lot of room to play with where the stock sender it located, but it wasn't terrible.

Was at the track and when going straight the oil pressure would instantly drop as soon as I went flat out. Kinda freaked me out at first but then I pieced things together in my head and figured that between a baffled pan, 3qt accusump, there not being many right turns at the track I was at, no idiot light, and my engine not asploding, I was pretty confident that it was just the sender that was going bad.

Although the oil pressure does seem to read about a tick lower with the SoS sender than it did with my stock one. At idle it used to sit one tick below the middle, now it sits one tick up from zero. Not sure if that's common or not.

 

[CL65 Captain]

Just installed one of these myself. Took about 2 hours, there isn't a whole lot of room to play with where the stock sender it located, but it wasn't terrible.

Was at the track and when going straight the oil pressure would instantly drop as soon as I went flat out. Kinda freaked me out at first but then I pieced things together in my head and figured that between a baffled pan, 3qt accusump, there not being many right turns at the track I was at, no idiot light, and my engine not asploding, I was pretty confident that it was just the sender that was going bad.

Although the oil pressure does seem to read about a tick lower with the SoS sender than it did with my stock one. At idle it used to sit one tick below the middle, now it sits one tick up from zero. Not sure if that's common or not.

My OEM would drop at the track, but my SOS does NOT. My oil sits at 2 mark at idle and a little above half way - 4 on the gauge when driving.

 

[RYU]

I just did this swap after work today. I'm impressed with the OEM level quality and attention to detail SoS put into this kit. I like the OEM connector pin (nice touch) and the OEM style sensor. I do have a couple of comments... SoS should include some vinyl tubing/wrap for the exposed green wire (I just happened to have some) and the steel braided line is about 1/2-1" too long. Mine has a weird couple of bends to it. It's nothing that bothers me and there's no real stress on the line.. just saying... it'll make routing it neater. I guess i'm a bit anal like that.

I can also confirm that this is slower acting vs. the OEM unit but it's not slow enough to bother me.

Let me also say... this is a PITA to install only because I have big hands and getting down into the block is so awkward. I have the cuts on my hands to prove it. This is definitely a job for Ramon for the Socal ppl. haha I also dropped a bolt... not fun trying to find that thing.

Again, this is a nice part from SoS and cheaper than OEM.

 

[Gansan]

I just installed this today after procrastinating for months. Here are my notes:

- I have the OEM coolant tank, and it's not really that easy to just lay the tank on top of the engine as the instructions tell you. It balances precariously if you do that. I used a string to tie it to the strut tower bar. This pulls it higher out of the way so you can work, and you need every inch you can get!

- There is a lot of wiring harness stuff in the way. More than it looks like in the instructions, which makes me think NA2 is different from NA1, but I don't really know.

I unbolted the bracket that attaches the wiring bundle to the block, then unplugged all the connectors. Then I unclipped the connectors off the support bracket so that they could individually be moved aside. There is a small bundle you can move behind the green VTEC solenoid plug which holds it there. The fat tube of wires you can't do much about, but you can get at least some room this way by moving the smaller ones away.

- There really isn't much working room. I did 90% of the work on the block left handed, with only one hand.

- Trying to see, I was putting my face down as far as I could, and I found it helped to remove a metal bracket from the coolant tank which kept poking me in the eye.

- I was not clear on how much torque to use when tightening the pipe thread for the fitting screwing into the aluminum block. I just went as tight as I could to the point where I was pretty sure that it would not go one more revolution and still be pointing 45 degrees up and to the left.

- I used teflon tape on the threads.

- For the stainless steel braided tubing, I tightened the fittings enough so that they bottomed out on the funnel. If you look at them you will understand what I mean. I was not sure if I should put teflon tape on the cone which mates to the funnel, but I did so for all except the first one.

- The clamp for the sensor I put outside of the coolant tank bracket. The order goes: Firewall->coolant tank bracket->sensor clamp. The sensor clamp itself is very springy and if you put the sensor inside first, you have to fight the springiness to get the short bolt to mate with the hole. It was much easier to get the bolt through the clamp and bracket and started into the firewall mounting boss by doing the following:

1. Leaving the sensor out, clamp the sensor bracket shut right next to the looped section with an adjustable wrench or small clamp.
2. Holding the coolant tank bracket and the clamped sensor bracket together, get the bolt started.
3. After bolt is started, you can release the wrench which lets the sensor bracket spring open.
4. Put the sensor into the sensor bracket with some wiggling.
5. Tighten the bolt down.

- Oh yeah, be sure to spread some newspaper under the engine to catch the oil that will drip out of the sender hole when you remove it. You'll also need to clean the block under the sender where the oil runs down. I have a small mess to clean up tomorrow when it's light.


I haven't driven the car around yet, just started it up and checked for leaks. Seems to work so far!

 

[angus]

I have to say that I cannot recommend teflon tape - please use teflon paste.

 

[sparky]

teflon paste - I assume this is what Hondabond is?

curious for reasons for recommending paste over tape - better sealing? ease of use? perhaps even less risk of blocking the oil system (if a bit of tape tears of)?

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Thank you for your reviews, we appreciate it.

Either Teflon tape or a high temperature liquid sealant designed for pipe threads (Hondabond works fine) may be used. Please make sure to only use this on the pipe threads, it should not be used on the AN flare fitting. When applying the tape or liquid sealant, make sure to only apply to the fittings so that extra material does not make it into the orifice of the sensor.

cheers,
-- Chris

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Based on popular request, we're now powdercoating the sensor bracket black for a very stealthy installation.

 

[EAC]

I attempted to install this today. Holy cow, there's noway I can get my gorilla hands in there. I have EVERYTHING removed too.

Can this be done from underneath?

 

[sparky]

yeah it's a bastard of a location, but tool selection helps. I worked from the top. From memory I pre-assembled the sender/tube/mounting block. To remove the mounting block bolts I used a 10mm socket on very long extenders to a small ratchet drive (it was almost against the metalwork on LHS of engine bay, under/near the air inlet, airbox was removed of course, and the brackets under the main fuse box from memory). To get mounting block back in I used same ratchet extender method but held the bolts temporarily with sacrificial rubber bands, and other tricks!

But it did take much longer than I expected, and more expletives than usual :smile:

There is some access from underneath, I didn't go there but it may help. Sorry, this is only a partial explanation..

 

[EAC]

Thanks, I hope I can get it from underneath. I don't mine skinning my hands, and usually can put myself through hell but with this; I can't even get a finger on the top bolt.

 

[NSX2398]

Given the contortions you'll need to use, appropriate protection on the driver's side fender is a must too .. ask me how I know.

 

[EAC]

Tried again this morning, there's just no way possible. :frown:


I have a 96, are they different than na1's?

 

[TANTO]

Not to take away from the SOS product as it looks great, but what were the Realtime boys and the current track only guys using?

FWIW, don't ever use teflon paste, or any paste WITH the tape as the tape pushes all the paste into the flow path. I had a hydrualic leak on my maxjax recently and went around to the plumbing supply stores to see if there was a better tape than the generic plumbing stuff i had on hand. I found a blue product called Blue Monster which is supposed to be a bit better. With these tapered threads you just have to take the them down all the way. The tape isn't really doing much. I'm curious what airframe mechanics are using.

 

[sparky]

... there's just no way possible. :frown:
I have a 96, are they different than na1's?

I doubt 96 is much different ... but this is possible!

Let's check where you're at. I assume you have completely removed the air filter, including the small bracket for one of the three main bolts that sits under / near the fuse box, unbolted the coolant reservoir and strung it up so its out of the way and maybe also loosened the engine fuse box and removed under brackets (not sure if this is needed).

Working from memory so there may be something else to remove, but now ... working from top, if you have a 12"- 15" thin stick as a test device you should be able to pass it down behind and under all the tubes (it's now horizontal and parallel to crankshaft) and touch the heads of each of the two M8 bolts that hold the OEM sender mounting block to engine block (see inset on NSX manual page 8-3). Can you do this ?

Now if you have a 3/8" or 1/4" ratchet drive with a mixture of long extenders (say 6", 4" and 2") you can use this in place of stick test above and loosen the bolts .... yes?

 

[EAC]

I doubt 96 is much different ... but this is possible!

Let's check where you're at. I assume you have completely removed the air filter, including the small bracket for one of the three main bolts that sits under / near the fuse box, unbolted the coolant reservoir and strung it up so its out of the way and maybe also loosened the engine fuse box and removed under brackets (not sure if this is needed).

Working from memory so there may be something else to remove, but now ... working from top, if you have a 12"- 15" thin stick as a test device you should be able to pass it down behind and under all the tubes (it's now horizontal and parallel to crankshaft) and touch the heads of each of the two M8 bolts that hold the OEM sender mounting block to engine block (see inset on NSX manual page 8-3). Can you do this ?

Now if you have a 3/8" or 1/4" ratchet drive with a mixture of long extenders (say 6", 4" and 2") you can use this in place of stick test above and loosen the bolts .... yes?

I'm in the middle of a BBSC Supercharger so everything on the drivers side is removed. I'll give it another try next weekend with a 1/4", I didn't this weekend because I lost my 10mm socket. :frown:

 

[dirtbag]

I did this over the weekend. Unfortunately it was only a 3 beer project as I'd like to consume more beer. I have small hands and tiny fingers so it was pretty easy.

I did notice the aluminum mating block had the NPT exiting from the side instead of the back as shown on the instructions. I'm assuming this is for added clearance due to the wire loom, so that's a good design change.

For those who are thinking of tacking this, a ratcheting wrench to remove/install the block will be of great benefit as it can be tricky getting a socket in there.

The product is fantastic! Thanks SOS!

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

I did this over the weekend. Unfortunately it was only a 3 beer project as I'd like to consume more beer. I have small hands and tiny fingers so it was pretty easy.

I did notice the aluminum mating block had the NPT exiting from the side instead of the back as shown on the instructions. I'm assuming this is for added clearance due to the wire loom, so that's a good design change.

For those who are thinking of tacking this, a ratcheting wrench to remove/install the block will be of great benefit as it can be tricky getting a socket in there.

The product is fantastic! Thanks SOS!

Thank you for your review. Yes, based on user feedback, we moved the pressure port which makes installation much easier, especially on the 2000+ cars which have the different EGR and air injection components that get in the way.

-- Chris

 

[EAC]

Thank you for your review. Yes, based on user feedback, we moved the pressure port which makes installation much easier, especially on the 2000+ cars which have the different EGR and air injection components that get in the way.

-- Chris

Where did you move it? Mine is still sitting in the bag as I can't install mine. I can't even begin to get my hands remotely close to it.

 

[blodi]

I installed the sensor upgrade when I did my BBSC install last spring. I was seeing basically a "0" reading on the gauge at idle when the car was warm. Never got the idiot warning light though, so I figured it was just the sensor.
I put in the SOS one.....no difference. Still seeing almost zero at idle and warm engine. I figure if my oil pressure was actually this low, my engine would be toast by now and I'd see the idiot light on, which does come on when I turn the car on before I start it, so I know the light isn't out. Yes, my oil level is fine.
Any ideas? Maybe a bad connection? What should the voltage be at the sensor at idle?