I have the Torco RTF in the tranny and its sooo dam amazing.
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Torco oil the best oil now?
- Thread starter BATMANs
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- 13 September 2009
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- 672
What filter are you guys using with Amsoil / Torco oils? Mobil 1 or OEM?
I have it in here somewhere.
Forgot the exact number.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/162919-THE-ULTIMATE-NSX-Oil-Filter-Page-and-Analysis
Forgot the exact number.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/162919-THE-ULTIMATE-NSX-Oil-Filter-Page-and-Analysis
Update:
I couldn't be happier.
Anyone else?
I couldn't be happier.
Anyone else?
Ok, so here's my question, situation.
I have a 1991 with a NSX-R 4.23 Final Drive and also NSX-R Upgraded Differential. I'm running a one-off Exedy Twin Disc that was taken out of Cody Loveland's 2012 Pike's Peak Race car. I'm currently making no less than 581rwhp. When I did the engine, turbo and clutch, I started using Redline MTL. Now, when the clutch is hot, it grinds for a moment going into 3rd gear, but only when it's hot like after I put the car into boost and push it for a moment.
So, I'm going to flush the tranny and try either
1. OEM Acura MTL from my local Acura dealer.
or
2. Torco MTF and possibly with Torco Limited Slip Friction Modifier.
After reading this
I'm not too sure I should add the Torco Limited Slip Friction Modifier.
Any input? If I do add the Torco Limited Slip Friction Modifier, how much should I add? THey come in 4oz bottles.
Or should I not add it at all? Any other input is appreciated. Thanks!
I have a 1991 with a NSX-R 4.23 Final Drive and also NSX-R Upgraded Differential. I'm running a one-off Exedy Twin Disc that was taken out of Cody Loveland's 2012 Pike's Peak Race car. I'm currently making no less than 581rwhp. When I did the engine, turbo and clutch, I started using Redline MTL. Now, when the clutch is hot, it grinds for a moment going into 3rd gear, but only when it's hot like after I put the car into boost and push it for a moment.
So, I'm going to flush the tranny and try either
1. OEM Acura MTL from my local Acura dealer.
or
2. Torco MTF and possibly with Torco Limited Slip Friction Modifier.
After reading this
I'm not too sure I should add the Torco Limited Slip Friction Modifier.
Any input? If I do add the Torco Limited Slip Friction Modifier, how much should I add? THey come in 4oz bottles.
Or should I not add it at all? Any other input is appreciated. Thanks!
Well there are 2 types of friction modifiers. One for a Ford style of differential and the other is for a GM style of differential.
If I were you I would just go with the Torco RTF by itself as I did.
So far everything is working fine that I can tell sans friction modifier.
If I were you I would just go with the Torco RTF by itself as I did.
So far everything is working fine that I can tell sans friction modifier.
There is nothing better than Amsoil.
Thanks for posting that link. It’s an interesting article even if the author’s self-congratulatory tone puts me off somewhat.
As I’m sure the author (540RAT) knows, Shell and Ferrari have a marketing relationship and that’s why Shell oils are used in Ferrari F1 cars and are the factory fill for Ferrari road cars as well. Ferrari and Chrysler are both owned by Fiat and Pennzoil is owned by Shell. So Fiat is putting the same oil into their top-of-the-line Chrysler as they do into their Ferraris. Pure coincidence?
I’m sure Shell Helix Ultra / Pennzoil Ultra is an excellent oil. But I don’t think the choice of the factory fill for the Viper was simply because, “Chrysler is so impressed with Pennzoil Ultra, that they selected the 0W40 version of it as the only Factory Fill oil for their latest 8.4L, 640 HP, V-10, 200+ mph, Dodge SRT Viper.” I think 540RAT is overlooking the business reasons for making that choice.
Be that as it may, unless I’m reading the article wrong, the best Amsoil comes in at position 8 and the worst at position 67. And Torco comes in at position 107 of 118.
As I’m sure the author (540RAT) knows, Shell and Ferrari have a marketing relationship and that’s why Shell oils are used in Ferrari F1 cars and are the factory fill for Ferrari road cars as well. Ferrari and Chrysler are both owned by Fiat and Pennzoil is owned by Shell. So Fiat is putting the same oil into their top-of-the-line Chrysler as they do into their Ferraris. Pure coincidence?
I’m sure Shell Helix Ultra / Pennzoil Ultra is an excellent oil. But I don’t think the choice of the factory fill for the Viper was simply because, “Chrysler is so impressed with Pennzoil Ultra, that they selected the 0W40 version of it as the only Factory Fill oil for their latest 8.4L, 640 HP, V-10, 200+ mph, Dodge SRT Viper.” I think 540RAT is overlooking the business reasons for making that choice.
Be that as it may, unless I’m reading the article wrong, the best Amsoil comes in at position 8 and the worst at position 67. And Torco comes in at position 107 of 118.
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The idea of "better" oil is highly subjective. Different oils are better for different applications. In many cases hydrocracked gp-4+ oils are actually better than full synthetics, it really depends on the application and i5t's something that actually be analyzed scientifically knowing temperatures, clearances, pressure, etc. What's good for the goose may not be good for the gander. What's good for a very low tolerance high RPM N/A engine may not be good for a super torquey v8 or a turbo I-4...
It's not possible to say across the board that a certain oil is better than another in most cases. When it comes to high quality oil, it's all about compromises specific to an application. To say otherwise is rubbish.
It's not possible to say across the board that a certain oil is better than another in most cases. When it comes to high quality oil, it's all about compromises specific to an application. To say otherwise is rubbish.
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So I flushed out the Redline MTL that I had in there to try the Torco and see if it helped with grinding in 3rd gear when tranny is hot from running car in high boost.
No difference with the Torco. Grinding actually seems to happen faster, and it's much harder to put into first gear now with the Torco.
No difference with the Torco. Grinding actually seems to happen faster, and it's much harder to put into first gear now with the Torco.
U try the friction modifier?
It's a small bottle.
I think the GM one is better suited, but not sure.
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/limited.html
It's a small bottle.
I think the GM one is better suited, but not sure.
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/limited.html
Agree. And, it looks like my exclusive use of Mobil 1 is validated at least by this test: #6 I think I am going to try the 0W30 for my next change going into the winter, as I drive my NSX in temps as low as 0 F (-32 C) during our high altitude winter.
Batman, are you suggesting this to me?
yea
Another angle added to the mix.
http://www.adamcarolla.com/CarCastBlog/2012/07/synthetic-oil-with-lake-speed-jr-audi-r8/
click the Podcast
http://www.adamcarolla.com/CarCastBlog/2012/07/synthetic-oil-with-lake-speed-jr-audi-r8/
click the Podcast
Click below
This is the best oil
This is the best oil
I have not found many Blackstone UOAs for Torco but the ones I have seen show a ton of Moly and not much zinc or phosphorus. I would like to see someone send in a virgin sample for analysis.
Do you mean 0F (which is -17.8C) or do you mean -32C (which is -25.6F)? Or did you mean to say 0C which is 32F?
Denver has a fairly high variability in temperature during the winter; it can be very cold one day, and very mild the next. I would absolutely NOT use 0W30 in Denver, because it's unsuitable for those mild days. Even 5W30 isn't recommended for temperatures typical of winter in Denver. Remember, Acura recommends 5W30 only at ambient temperatures below freezing; 10W30 is recommended for ambient temps of -2F and above. I might consider 5W30 for winter use for an NSX in Chicago (normal January high 31F low 17F), but I would never use anything but 10W30 in Denver (normal January high 44F low 17F).
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Just for reference, back in 1991 Honda recommended engine oils for the NSX that had a viscosity between 9.3 and 12.5 Centistokes at normal operating temperature (212°F).
At 44°F, a 5w-30 oil has a viscosity around 340 Centistokes and a 10w-30 has a viscosity around 400 Centistokes. Whichever oil you put in your NSX’s crankcase, at cold startup it will be way thicker than what Honda’s engineers sized the oil passages for. So whatever the ambient temperature is, after starting your engine cold make sure you warm it up thoroughly before hitting the accelerator too hard.
At 44°F, a 5w-30 oil has a viscosity around 340 Centistokes and a 10w-30 has a viscosity around 400 Centistokes. Whichever oil you put in your NSX’s crankcase, at cold startup it will be way thicker than what Honda’s engineers sized the oil passages for. So whatever the ambient temperature is, after starting your engine cold make sure you warm it up thoroughly before hitting the accelerator too hard.
Do you mean 0F (which is -17.8C) or do you mean -32C (which is -25.6F)? Or did you mean to say 0C which is 32F?
Denver has a fairly high variability in temperature during the winter; it can be very cold one day, and very mild the next. I would absolutely NOT use 0W30 in Denver, because it's unsuitable for those mild days. Even 5W30 isn't recommended for temperatures typical of winter in Denver. Remember, Acura recommends 5W30 only at ambient temperatures below freezing; 10W30 is recommended for ambient temps of -2F and above. I might consider 5W30 for winter use for an NSX in Chicago (normal January high 31F low 17F), but I would never use anything but 10W30 in Denver (normal January high 44F low 17F).
0F.
0W30 and 5W30 are the same weight at operating temp. The 0W offers better cold flow and startup protection, which is important for winter driving.
The recommendation from Honda's engineers in the manuals is clear. They specify 10W30 for temperatures above -2F and they do not recommend 5W30 or 0W30 above 32F. And daytime temperatures above freezing are normal for Denver winters. If you drive an NSX in the winter in Denver, you're far more likely to be driving it in temperatures for which they recommend 10W30 and not 5W30, than 5W30 and not 10W30. (Yes, it can get below -2F but it's not common and you probably wouldn't be out driving your NSX on those rare bitter cold nights anyway.)
Of course, it's your car and you can put whatever you want into it. Even aircraft oil or vegetable oil.
Of course, it's your car and you can put whatever you want into it. Even aircraft oil or vegetable oil.
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The recommendation in the Owner’s Manual is also very clear regarding the transmission oil: “Only use an SF or SG grade motor oil, with a weight of 10w-30 or 10w-40.” It would be unwise to stubbornly and blindly cling to that recommendation instead of considering a switch to the latest Honda MTF, though.
This discussion is about oil for the engine. If you'd like to start a separate topic for fluid to use in the transmission, please feel free to do so. Or post to one of the dozen such topics that already exist.
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