. , even with the heat on.
CDub said:
Larry Bastanza said:BTW, I have a set of RM headers (remember those? LOL.....)
Miled, maybe I am thinking of the original headers, marketed by Comptech before 1998.
I guess I was lucky not to get those.
prova4re said:
prova4re said:Miled,
I got the Comptech headers at Nsxpo from Comptech for under 1,500 inc shiping.
Hi Brian,
That's a very good price. The prices I quoted above were from Science of Speed's website for comparison purposes vs. the Taitec.
Originally posted by prova4re
My Tubi didnot need the dremel mod, the flange was flush when I installed it.
Brian,
Next time you get your car up on a lift (while running), put your hands over that connection and see if you can feel any exhaust leaks. I think almost, if not all Tubis (including other exhaust manufacturers) tend to line the flange pretty evenly with the pipe, thereby not allowing the gasket to crush properly upon tightening and hence causing exhaust leaks. My eyes used to tear from the RM exhaust I used to have and could never figure out why. After removing the RM unit (to install the Tubi) I found that the gasket was neever crushed; and the reason it wasn't crushed was becaue the RM unit had the flange lined up evenly with the pipe. Dremel tool was used on the Tubi and no more.
Originally posted by NSXLNT
Is this discoloration on mufflers/tailpipes/headers really indicative of something overheating and/or wrong? It happens all the time on motorcycle pipes, on every bike I've owned for over twenty-five years.
Hi Keith,
Agreed that discoloration is normal and nothing out of the ordinary.
While my Tubi and DC Sports headers are not turning blue or purple, they have discolored a little bit ( I don't put a lot of miles on the car )
The tips themselves don't turn blue or purple (somehow Larry B.'s does!
but they clean up nicely with a quality chrome/metal polish. I used to buy something at the motorcycle shops called Simichrome? and I think there was a product called Blueaway?
Any of the products listed will clean most of the tarnish off.
Originally posted by CDub
Hey Larry,
When you have a chance to see the Taitec headers, can you comment on the workmanship of the Taitec comparing with the CT ones. The quality was noticeable between the CT and DC.
Larry, please let us know your thoughts between the Taitec & Comptech headers whenever you do the install with Russ.
70 degrees here in OC. Have you consider relocating?
I don't know if he has or not, but the current single digit weather here has convinced me that I'm game for a relocate!
prolego said:Spacing was almost perfect, hangers did not have to be bent, and original rubber hangers were used.
Hangars on my car did not have to be bent either, and original rubber hangars were used well.
The way my second unit fits now is overall 2" left of center on both sides. If the entire unit could be moved that amount to the right, the pipes would be centered perfectly on both sides; and I have no problems top-to-bottom alignment as I did on the first one. Short of cutting the exhaust pipes 2" and re-welding (not an option), there is nothing else that can be done to fix this. I was going to consider the DC Sport headers (to see if that would correct the alignment), but it appears that Comptech is a much better unit.
There must be some tricks or am I lucky??
You should play Lotto while the streak is still hot.
I also love the fact that at idle it's very quiet, just like stock.
Arshad said:Sorry to dig up this old thread, but I finally got my Tubi + DC headers installed today. There were no alignment issues with the install (my tubi is serial #45). The only thing required was a very minor bending of the hanger on the driver side to give the exhaust an extra cm of clearance. I haven't taken any pics yet, but it's aligned quite well on both sides and is about 2-3 cm from the valence at the closest point. Hopefully this is far enough away that it won't cause any of the bumper heat damage that some others have complained about.
So chalk one more up for DC+Tubi combo. Has anyone with DC+Tubi NOT had it align correctly?
Hey Arshad,
With the exception of a few comments/suggestions below, it appears that your install has contributed to yet another DC+Tubi combo success. The pics you posted look great, and the tips look even on both sides! Congrats!
I did show the installer the pictures that Larry sent me of the dremelling required on the flange, but they decided to attempt it without it first to see if it just worked. It turned out to have a small leak on both connections to the cat but rather than dremel it, they just put some kind of expanding sealing foam to stop the leak. Do you guys think that is ok?
I don't think it was a good idea to use the expanding sealant. They should have removed the required tubing from inside the flange as suggested on previous posts. You definitely want the washer on each connection to crush like they are supposed to. FYI... the torque setting for the self-locking nuts is 25 lb-ft. Make sure they're not overtightened.
They also had to remove the bottom heat shield from the cat attached to the front header to make it fit correctly. They said that this shouldn't be an issue -- does that sound correct?
Hmmm... if the fitment was right, then there would be no need to remove the shield. See if you can work something out to get that shield back on.
The sound is also incredible, especially when you rev it up and it hits VTEC. WOW!
Agreed!
The gurgling that others have mentioned is there, but it's not that apparent to me.
I like the gurgling... reminds me of the older style Ferraris.
Does it get better with time?
The exhaust will get better with time. The gurgling will remain the same. NIIIIICE!!!
My only complaint is that around 1500 rpm there is a rattling sound. I can't hear it from inside the car, but standing outside while my friend rev'ed it, I can hear it when it drops revs. Additionally, if he holds it steady at 1500rpm, the rattle is constant. If he revs it higher or lower, the rattle goes away completely. Does this sound normal or does it sound like something that just needs to be adjusted? I'll have a closer look at it tomorrow and also try and take some pics.
You should have another look underneath and make sure no part of the exhaust/catalytic is touching anything, which may be contributing to this rattle.
But man, you should've seen the grin on my face after I first took the car for a spin..
My sentiments exactly...
coolnsx said:
prova4re said:The rears are a neg 2, my tires only lasted 8,000klm.
Arshad said:Thanks for the tips miled. I noticed that when I back out of a parking spot with my windows open, I smell more 'exhaust fume' then I used to with the OEM exhaust (could the exhaust still be 'breaking in' after a month?).
No problem. Regarding the exhaust smell, since you're running your OEM catalytics, it should be pretty much the same as it were with your OEM exhaust.
I'm afraid that you may be right about the sealent -- maybe there's a leak still. I should probably take it back into the shop so they can jack it up and check for a leak.
Definitely get the car back up on the lift and have another look at it. If the exhaust pipes don't have a full seal with the catalytics (due to the piping on the Tubi being flush with the flange and not allowing the washer to crush), you will have an exhaust leak. In reference to the exhaust install only, think of it this way. Did Honda add sealant when your OEM exhaust was installed at the factory? Exactly... neither should it be done to this install.
Or could the smell be from the O2 sensor getting knocked loose and wrong AF mixture?
If your air/fuel mixture hasn't been changed since you had your OEM exhaust, and you didn't have any issues with it then, the smell is most likely coming from a leak in your new set up.
I'm very happy with the fitment. No burning or blackening on the valence/bumper either.
The fitment looks perfect.
Also the gurgle isn't very apparent to me. I think the rattling at 1250 rpm is probably where the gurgle is supposed to happen. My friend describes it as a gurgle, but it sounds more like a rattling to me and I can see the exhaust tips vibrating if I keep it at 1250rpm.
If you're by yourself and would like to hear the gurgle sound, while sitting on the driver seat, follow this scenario: Have your door open and stick your head a bit out of the car. Blip the throttle two or three times and let go of the pedal. As the RPMs come back down (and just before it reaches idle speed), you will hear the famous gurgle sound. The gurgle is apparent enough and this is the only time you will hear this sound. It cannot be heard if you are pressing on the pedal.
Then again I've only heard it while outside the car in a parking garage where the sounds are magnified. I should probably try the same test outside...
The sound will be less magnified outside, but you will still be able to hear it nevertheless.
Ciao...
