Unofficial weight reduction thread

[RYU]

Yes, thanks for clarifying. That was a typo/brain_fart on my part.

I mentioned not removing the sound deadening because you don't track the car and the car is noisy enough for street driving. I guess it depends on your tolerance level. The small weight benefit is not worth the added noise for me.

I think he meant abs modulator NOT srs module
The abs got much lighter and better with the newer modulator

 

[Old Guy]

I don't recall you specifying the vintage of your car. I also don't know about the early cars; but, the later cars (post 1997) definitely have pre tensioners in the seat belts and those pre tensioners are controlled by the SRS module. Remove the SRS module and you lose the pre tensioner function reducing the effectiveness of the seatbelts. You could address that with a fixed 4 point harness - not the most practical or comfortable solution for daily driving.

 

[MrHugo]

Yes, thanks for clarifying. That was a typo/brain_fart on my part.

I mentioned not removing the sound deadening because you don't track the car and the car is noisy enough for street driving. I guess it depends on your tolerance level. The small weight benefit is not worth the added noise for me.

I agree. Don't remove sound deadening because NSX is a great daily driver sports car. I wonder how much nosier is the single pain divider glass.

Must have for me: A/C and Stereo

I am currently running a very loud exhaust setup and been running it for last 8 years. I am going to tone it down by a lot and make the car much more drive-able. I love the sound, but I realized how annoying it is when I took the car to Las Vegas few months ago.

I just did corner balancing at West End a week ago and I am surprise how light the car is with me inside.

 

[gaymondleerpv]

View attachment 146666

I agree. Don't remove sound deadening because NSX is a great daily driver sports car. I wonder how much nosier is the single pain divider glass.

Must have for me: A/C and Stereo

I am currently running a very loud exhaust setup and been running it for last 8 years. I am going to tone it down by a lot and make the car much more drive-able. I love the sound, but I realized how annoying it is when I took the car to Las Vegas few months ago.

I just did corner balancing at West End a week ago and I am surprise how light the car is with me inside.

I guess that depends on how much you weigh but yeah thats very light. What exhaust are you running? I used to have the rm dtm with CT test pipes (before I had the ctsc autorotor installed) and that was too loud. I just switched to the autowave clone of the taitec lightweight and thats louder than the rm exhaust for sure. I don't know how often I'll be driving the nsx but the stereo had no sound so I didn't know which amp was bad or if the head unit was doa so i just removed it all except for the rear center. I was going to take the nsx this weekend to drive to santa barbara but with no cruise control (after swapping to the momo tuner and nrg setup) and ccu out for repair no thanks, gallardo has no cruise control and seats after 1 hr feel worse than probably sitting on a stack of books so I''ll either take the boxster spyder or the lx570

 

[RYU]

I live in SB so if you want to see my cruise control setup with the Momo Tuner, happy to show you.

 

[gaymondleerpv]

I live in SB so if you want to see my cruise control setup with the Momo Tuner, happy to show you.

Thanks for the offer, I thought about that but just yanked it out while getting to the alb module. Also took out door lock module while I was there as it was acting funny anyway. SRS thing, that needs to go. srs loom/wires I'll think about while I wait for my ccu to be returned so I can open the floor vents and get to the srs module. Now there is almost zero chance of locking the keys inside accidentally. Something must seriously be wrong with me when I spent 2+ hrs getting the alb out rather than spend 2+ hrs driving up and down the switchbacks at the end of my street

 

[RYU]

Thanks for the offer, I thought about that but just yanked it out while getting to the alb module. Also took out door lock module while I was there as it was acting funny anyway. SRS thing, that needs to go. srs loom/wires I'll think about while I wait for my ccu to be returned so I can open the floor vents and get to the srs module. Now there is almost zero chance of locking the keys inside accidentally. Something must seriously be wrong with me when I spent 2+ hrs getting the alb out rather than spend 2+ hrs driving up and down the switchbacks at the end of my street

the door lock issue was prob the common sticky mechanism issue. not an electrical issue.

 

[gaymondleerpv]

the door lock issue was prob the common sticky mechanism issue. not an electrical issue.

The door lock on the drivers side would keep moving up and down if I pushed it all the way manually. It would drain the battery if left that way. If I use the power lock it would do the same thing or once in awhile it would do it a few times and settle on a perfect spot and be fine. Is that the sticky mechanism issue?

 

[Relbart]

Hi guys.
¿What you think about remove stabilizer bars?

My case, i bought a kit for reemplace all suspension bushing kit but stabilizer bar bushings dont fit (not big problem anyway), but before, this "mod" was in my list of crazy things for remove unsprung weight (stabilizer bar is sprung but end links are 50% of his motion ratio).
This is the direct effect (very small), but a huge indirect effect when a coilover supports a % of the other wheel (unsprung weight) of the axle.
Without bars, the suspension will be 100% independent, very nice for comfort and handling.

I have a very stiff suspension setup, at least for street (i dont use the car in track):
Front Spring Rate: 549 lbs/in (9.8 kg/mm)
Rear Spring Rate: 672 lbs/in (12 kg/mm)
So body roll is not a problem, but not sure without the bars.

The other thing is about weight transfer between axles, if im not wrong a front axle bar is stiffer than the rear, this make the car understeer, 91-93 have stiffer front, but the all around car setup still have big oversteer.
All NSX models later changed for softer springs rear for control this effect.

If i remove both bars (front is slightly stiffer), i will have more oversteer but my spring setup beetween front and rear is 5% softer rear (less oversteer) than stock F:3kg-R:4kg to aftermarket F:10kg-R:12kg, 25% vs 20%, so i will keep at least the same oversteer than stock if springs compensate.

Im not a expert, maybe im wrong in something but i dont found any problem removing bars, even great advantadge.
The question is, if this were so simple ¿why brands dont use stiffer springs without stabilizer bars? thats why i think im forgetting something...

Any opinion?

Nsxprime links about sway bars and suspension:
https://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/swaystrutbars.htm
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Suspension

 

[5:04]

Just as a data point, since the thought of K swaps is becoming more common. I weighed my K Swapped NSX with pretty much everything installed.

The car weighed 2711 with a half tank of gas before the work. The car had a full interior, a/c, heater, and audio. Various items were removed to get to this weight.

The weight with the new engine and trans in was 2270. The car had a nearly full tank and 42lbs of things I take to the track in the trunk. The only other form of weight loss was the bumper beams being removed. This had everything except the side skirts, splitter, intercooler, exhaust and charge piping. The exhaust and I/C piping will be titanium and not weigh much. I'm guessing another 50-70lbs in weight. I'm shooting for around 2300lbs with an 1/8th tank, a full interior and working a/c.

I'll check back in with a final weight in the next couple months.

 

[MrHugo]

Just as a data point, since the thought of K swaps is becoming more common. I weighed my K Swapped NSX with pretty much everything installed.

The car weighed 2711 with a half 1/4 tank of gas before the work. The car had a full interior, a/c, heater, and audio. Various items were removed to get to this weight.

The weight with the new engine and trans in was 2270. The car had a nearly full tank and 42lbs of things I take to the track in the trunk. The only other form of weight loss was the bumper beams being removed. This had everything except the side skirts, splitter, intercooler, exhaust and charge piping. The exhaust and I/C piping will be titanium and not weigh much. I'm guessing another 50-70lbs in weight. I'm shooting for around 2300lbs with an 1/8th tank, a full interior and working a/c.

I'll check back in with a final weight in the next couple months.

I knew the K series engine is lighter but didn't know it is 500 pounds lighter. Thats really Light!!!

Is the K series going to be turbo'd?

 

[Hass]

Took the nsx for weight check. I weighed myself at home then on this scale first to check the accuracy and it was spot on. I was surprised with the results.

Nsx Weight with full interior and trunk include cd changer. Added weight HID and Grome USB connector.

Roughly 2 gallons of gasoline in the tank
- Spare Tire, bracket and pump removed
- Shorai Battery
- Antenna delete
- Comptech Headers lighter than OEM manifold
- Comptech exhaust lighter than OEM
- No cats
- Sun visors removed
- Windshield Wipers removed
- Removed the engine cover
- BC Coilovers lighter than OEM
- MoMo Hub and MOMo Steering wheel
- CF headliner & pillars..1 lbs saved lol

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EZMzxGU1oY4&feature=youtu.be

 

[gaymondleerpv]

What about removing the sound deadening under the sound deadening mat on the firewall? The threads I see only hit the mat and the floorboards. I stripped everything out so I will probably get the dry ice and isopropyl alcohol 91% and get to work removing everything tomorrow or maybe sunday. Thanks for any advice

 

[Relbart]

I read 11lbs sound deaning rear seats and 5,5lbs under seats.

Full sound deaning, copy-paste:

"That's correct I weighed it all. Sound deadening is made of tar and heavy plastic type stuff. I'll be generous and say 45-50lb because the tar remover soaked into the tar a little so probably added some weight. That weight if from all the sound deadening from the entire cabin. Floor boards firewall and other small spots.
It took 4 grocery bags to hold it all. Each bag weighed about 13-14lb
The trunk sound deadening was already removed so I don't know how much that would weigh".

Type-R save 39lbs changing floor mats and removing sound deaning (¿all? i dont know)

Extra pic about a track-NSX: About 47 lbs. of wiring harness, computers & relays that wont be necessary.

 

[gaymondleerpv]

Thx I got the rear mat easily, now my dumb ass is using a heat gun to get the painted sound deadening off the firewall. Point of no return now, have to push forward and finish it. And I dont want 95% of it off, 100% and clean enough to eat off of it. Ok I'll see if I can just finish the drivers side today. install my newly acquired df carbon seats and drive it

 

[Biff_Malibu]

Here's how my Zanardi weighed out at West End. My car has full interior, and no specific weight saving modifications. Front spare is removed. Sicence of Speed headers and exhaust. JDM Type R mesh cover, and Type S steering wheel. 17" ZE40 wheels.

A little over half a tank of gas, with no passenger. I do have the whole car wrapped in Xpel Ultimate, which the installer mentioned is about 30 pounds worth of film.

IMG_0422 by Biff Malibu, on Flickr

 

[gaymondleerpv]

Did you have an alignment done just weigh your car? What was the cost to do either or both?

 

[Biff_Malibu]

Did you have an alignment done just weigh your car? What was the cost to do either or both?

I was there for an alignment, and the scales were already out so Chris helped me weigh the car. Took no time.

As far as cost, the alignments are $150.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[redbaronace]

So it appears that many have chosen to replace the battery with a motorcycle battery. Can people provide some feedback on how this has worked out for you thus far. I would love to reduce some weight and this seems like a logical place to do so.

I am in Seattle where the temps drop below freezing rarely. And during those months, I the car will be in the garage and not driven.

I also plan to keep the car on a battery tender.

Your thoughts and recommendations on which battery to consider would be much appreciated.

 

[solidol]

So it appears that many have chosen to replace the battery with a motorcycle battery. Can people provide some feedback on how this has worked out for you thus far. I would love to reduce some weight and this seems like a logical place to do so.

I am in Seattle where the temps drop below freezing rarely. And during those months, I the car will be in the garage and not driven.

I also plan to keep the car on a battery tender.

Your thoughts and recommendations on which battery to consider would be much appreciated.

Unless you daily it, or always on the tender then Shorai works fine. Otherwise it's PITA and not worth it. Get Optima yellow top instead and live a happy life.

 

[RYU]

So it appears that many have chosen to replace the battery with a motorcycle battery. Can people provide some feedback on how this has worked out for you thus far. I would love to reduce some weight and this seems like a logical place to do so.

I am in Seattle where the temps drop below freezing rarely. And during those months, I the car will be in the garage and not driven.

I also plan to keep the car on a battery tender.

Your thoughts and recommendations on which battery to consider would be much appreciated.

For 8 yrs i've used the Odyssey PC680. In those 8yrs i've gone thru 3 of these batteries. One of them discharged to zero too many times because of a faulty CTek charger. Theoretically I could have gone thru 2 batteries or an average of 1 battery ever 4 years. I'm too lazy to deal with the exotic batteries that require very specific care requirements. It's just too annoying to not have a car start so I don't the extra 10+ or so pounds of savings. The 680 has enough umph and is the lightest battery i'm comfortable putting in the car. It's virtually maintenance free just like a big lead acid. My car is on a tender when not driven.

You can also try an S2000 or an old Civic battery. They also have much smaller form factor and you can buy a battery holder on Ebay for them.

 

[redbaronace]

For 8 yrs i've used the Odyssey PC680. In those 8yrs i've gone thru 3 of these batteries. One of them discharged to zero too many times because of a faulty CTek charger. Theoretically I could have gone thru 2 batteries or an average of 1 battery ever 4 years. I'm too lazy to deal with the exotic batteries that require very specific care requirements. It's just too annoying to not have a car start so I don't the extra 10+ or so pounds of savings. The 680 has enough umph and is the lightest battery i'm comfortable putting in the car. It's virtually maintenance free just like a big lead acid. My car is on a tender when not driven.

You can also try an S2000 or an old Civic battery. They also have much smaller form factor and you can buy a battery holder on Ebay for them.

Did you Odyssey PC680 require a special mount or bracket?

 

[RYU]

Did you Odyssey PC680 require a special mount or bracket?

Dali use to sell them but now you'll have to modify a generic one.

 

[Honcho]

You can also go with the Type-S battery. The holder is available through the Acura parts chain and the battery too (from the Zanardi). It's about 15 lbs lighter than the standard battery, IIRC.

 

[solidol]

I had 680 for two years driving every weekend or so. It was fine but would die if you let it sit longer than two weeks. Your TTL may vary.