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value of 2001 nsx with salvage title?

Joined
19 November 2005
Messages
50
what would you pay for one? car is stock, minor hit in the rear, properly fixed, average mileage, well maintained, no other issues. thanks for your opinions.
 
What ever the Retail Value is, divide it by half.

That's what the dealership does.
 
Re: Math skillz

Ojas said:
Perhaps you mean retail divided in half or retail multiplied by half. If not, I have a salvage NSX for you. ;)


KBB 2001 NSX T with 30k miles
Suggested Retail Price: $70,310
Half of that: $ 35,155

That's how the dealership will pay.

Of course you will pay more than that when buy it from them, so I assume around 40 grand.

Vance
 
Unless ultra-low mileage, pass on it...

Vancehu said:
What ever the Retail Value is, divide it by half.

Ojas said:
Perhaps you mean retail divided in half or retail multiplied by half. If not, I have a salvage NSX for you. :wink:

With NSXtasy/Ken A.W.O.L., guess we got another number-cruncher/egghead at the helm... :tongue:

Vanceu, as you stated... it would be:

Retail = Retail x 2 = Double Retail :biggrin:
1/2
 
Curious to know how a "minor hit in the rear" would salvage a $60000 car.
Insurance companies aren't looking to hand out payoffs. I'ld look a little deeper into the repairs.
 
What are they asking? Would be really skeptical if it was only "light rear" and not more.
 
A friend of mine (won't reveal) backed his into a tire barrier a few months back, and from looking at it you would guess maybe $5k-$7k with a little elbow grease. Well once up on the lift, and several hours of inspecting, the damage estimate cracked $30k :eek: (it is amazing how much parts/labor adds up on an NSX. If it was me, I would do all aftermarket to save some money, and do more elbow grease, and fix it. In this case though it was totaled, and sold out as a parts car. The main thing to look at is frame and suspension. Everything else can be done with used parts or aftermarket. (it may take a year, but you should be able to find all of the parts used for pennies on the dollar. Substitute some aftermarket parts, and you will have a better car than what it once was for the same price. It also helps to do some of the work yourself, and/or with the help of experienced friends.

Get the car on a rack, and inspect the frame and alignment. If it is wacked, that is where you will spend thousands right off the bat.
 
Well, the Suggested retail price fo the car in excellent condition is 70 grand, therefore, the damage has to be over 70 grand to conisder totaled (Savage).

No reason to pay out that much money if the damage is lower than the car's value
 
Vancehu said:
Well, the Suggested retail price fo the car in excellent condition is 70 grand, therefore, the damage has to be over 70 grand to conisder totaled (Savage).

No reason to pay out that much money if the damage is lower than the car's value


Not true. I used to buy and sell salvaged cars and the damage estimate could be as low as half of the estimated blue book value and in rare cases less. For example: A 2000 NSX is stolen, airbags and wheels are the only items missing upon recovery. The insurance company's client is paid off because the car is recovered 2 months after the date of incident. The car cannot be returned to the client because he or she had already been paid off. The car is a loss to the insurAnce co. so the title is branded "Salvage". Salvaged for 12K in repairs.
 
brandonson said:
The truth.
That's it. Get the thing up on a rack with someone you trust to see if it's legit or not. Could've backed into a pole, who knows. A salvage title is pretty serious, but you never know. I'd err on the side of caution in a any salvage deal though. Unless you're looking to rip off the next guy...
 
GHOSTRIDER said:
Curious to know how a "minor hit in the rear" would salvage a $60000 car.
Insurance companies aren't looking to hand out payoffs. I'ld look a little deeper into the repairs.

I was wondering that as well...
 
When you buy a car like the nsx you want it pristine, and untouched.
When you get into an accident with it big or small regardless you would never look at it the same. its not what your payin(payed) 70k for. so you insist with insurence to salvage it and you go get a new one.


An as far as value i think it has to salvage it to have the worth of the car, so to salvage a 70k car you would have to exceed a parts and labor bill of 35k or more. But with my experiences salvage titles dont matter when you can prove the perevious damage was light and was fixed professionaly and documented with all factory original parts. Its pretty much what the person values the car at when they at it.
 
Every salvage pay off has its own details, however I worked with a body shop for 5 years and I saw the insurance companys fix more and more cars rather than pay them off..I even saw one van that was worth 17k get 21k in repairs by the time it was done.....I would look very closely at this car before buying.
 
another thing to add in to yourself....


if you ever decide to sell the car are you going to be willing to have a car valued at less than 20,000 in a matter of years?

if you get this, be VERY EXTREMELY UNMISTAKENLY SURE that you want it until it can be driven nomore, or be prepaired to eat a big chunk when you go to resell it.

also, i don't know of any banks that will finance a 'salvage' title... so you must have the cash in hand... just shop around and finance the rest; youll have a car that dosen't have a questionable history, is worth something if you need the asset, and woln't start off needing thousands of dollars in work just to bring it back up to the same level a beaten car with a clear title would show...
 
Let me add two more cents., If the salvaged car is asking for over 40 grand. Dude, you can very much buy a 97 with low mileage in that range with clear title. Little too risky if you still want a later model year, but they're very much the same car between 97 to 01. Minor changes, but very much the same.
 
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