Camber Correction Kit bearings

[Thom]

Extra bearings...Here's the link to the company that makes the polymer bearings with the part numbers you'll need if you ever need to replace the polymere bearings on the NSX camber kit. They are a standard size and should be available if you ever need them. They sell them in any quantity you'd like.

The creaking sound you hear does not mean the bearings are worn out, repack them with grease or spray (soak) with WD-40 while they still resid on the car; creaking will go away.

http://www.igus.com/iglide.asp
Search by Iglide material drop down and select Z or J.

If you get the Z bearings, these are a little harder material, less expansion, much more expensive.
Get 4 each, select sleeve, Nominal Bearing ID (30), select (metric)
ZSM-3034-20
and
Get 4 each, select flange, Nominal Bearing ID (30), select (metric)
ZFM-3034-20

or

If you get the J bearings, these are a good hard material, quiter, less expensive.
Get 4 each, select sleeve, Nominal Bearing ID (30), select (metric)
JSM-3034-20
and
Get 4 each, select flange, Nominal Bearing ID (30), select (metric)
JFM-3034-20

 

[NSXCessive]

Hi Thom, I have the aggressive kit you had produced... which bearings did you use in the kit JSM-3034-20? I guess it wouldn't hurt to order and stock some spares in case they go bad over time on my car.

 

[Thom]

First production kits had the Z bearing. Later kits had the J bearing. I couldn't tell you when the change happend. Z bearing is green, J bearing is yellow.

J bearing has a slightly softer compound and should provide more sound deadening.

 

[NSXCessive]

First production kits had the Z bearing. Later kits had the J bearing. I couldn't tell you when the change happend. Z bearing is green, J bearing is yellow.

J bearing has a slightly softer compound and should provide more sound deadening.

The ones you sent me were yellow-ish in color so they must be J bearing. Thanks,

 

[turbosgt]

Thom,

When are you going to do another production run????? Your killing me...:biggrin:

 

[liftnot]

Thom:
after 20k+ miles, they still works great. dido on WD-40 to take care the squeeking.

 

[evof575gtc]

thom, i missed out on the first batch.
i really need your aggressive camber correction kit if you happened to still have some stashed away.

 

[Juice]

I'm with them. :biggrin: I'm in desperate need of these as well. Not sure why you only made a limited run...

 

[pingu81]

Make MOARRRR! :biggrin:

 

[Zishan]

I think Thom is busy racing and doing the family thing!

Shameless plug, but I might have a set for sale.... :biggrin:

 

[NSXCessive]

Has anyone had these yellow-ish looing bearings go bad yet? I got some new noise this week coming from the suspension sounds like a poping or clanking under braking and accel or travelling on bumpy roads.

 

[Zishan]

Has anyone had these yellow-ish looing bearings go bad yet? I got some new noise this week coming from the suspension sounds like a poping or clanking under braking and accel or travelling on bumpy roads.

Sounds like the same issue I was having...so sounds like your bearings are bad.

 

[NSXCessive]

Sounds like the same issue I was having...so sounds like your bearings are bad.

Didn't put very many miles one them maybe 2~3k of street driving. Did you buy the J bearing again or did you switch to the Z harder material one?

 

[Zishan]

From my experience, there are 2 issues. The first issue I had was the bearings making noise, like they were in too tight. Thom advised soaking them with WD40 and letting it penetrate the bearings.

The second issue I had was a loud clunk sound that developed over time and would be present during breaking and acceleration. I discovered the upper control arm was sliding back and forth (as the car would break or accelerate). It's like the camber bushings that Thom made had left a slight gap and the control arm would now move slightly. When I discovered this, I went and got a new kit put in. That back and forth noise was resolved, but the popping sound from the bearings is still present.

Not sure exactly what bearings I have in there now, but I had one of his last kits installed.

Anyways, being one of the first, I've had to endure some difficulties as the kit evolved. In the process, I damaged and stripped some parts. Completely avoidable, but was due to my lack of experience and lack of patience. Any competent mechanic would have not made the mistakes I did, but I learned the hard way. And now I'm fed up with messing with it. I'm going back to OEM. At the time of purchasing the kit, I was driving my car. I rarely drive it now so the camber kit is not as important to me anymore.

 

[NSXCessive]

From my experience, there are 2 issues. The first issue I had was the bearings making noise, like they were in too tight. Thom advised soaking them with WD40 and letting it penetrate the bearings.

The second issue I had was a loud clunk sound that developed over time and would be present during breaking and acceleration. I discovered the upper control arm was sliding back and forth (as the car would break or accelerate). It's like the camber bushings that Thom made had left a slight gap and the control arm would now move slightly. When I discovered this, I went and got a new kit put in. That back and forth noise was resolved, but the popping sound from the bearings is still present.

Not sure exactly what bearings I have in there now, but I had one of his last kits installed.

Anyways, being one of the first, I've had to endure some difficulties as the kit evolved. In the process, I damaged and stripped some parts. Completely avoidable, but was due to my lack of experience and lack of patience. Any competent mechanic would have not made the mistakes I did, but I learned the hard way. And now I'm fed up with messing with it. I'm going back to OEM. At the time of purchasing the kit, I was driving my car. I rarely drive it now so the camber kit is not as important to me anymore.

I never thought to check the possible clearance issue maybe mine is doing the same sliding back and fourth on the pivots? So I just went outside and grabbed the A arm thru my wheel spokes and moving forward and backwards I can hear and feel it lightly clanking... Bingo! Its only happening on the Right side and the Left side is tight right now no clank there and no movement forward & backwards.

I don't have any creaking or noise from my bearings at all. Not sure if switching to the Z would solve any problem related to the A arm moving forward and contacting pivots? Maybe Thom and chime in on this before I go and buy new bearings I don't need?

 

[heretic]

Hey, I have Thom's kit installed and I really don't like the way the car feels now.
How easy is it to go back to stock? Other than buying new or used upper A arms? I don't have the old bushing from my stock arms any more.

 

[Zishan]

Hey, I have Thom's kit installed and I really don't like the way the car feels now.
How easy is it to go back to stock? Other than buying new or used upper A arms? I don't have the old bushing from my stock arms any more.

I have an extra set of bushings...if you need....PM me.

 

[Thom]

The squeeking and clicking are do to lack of lubrication. Saturate the bearings with WD40. The noise will go away within the day...

 

[NSXCessive]

The squeeking and clicking are do to lack of lubrication. Saturate the bearings with WD40. The noise will go away within the day...

Thom I tried this did not resolve my problem... I sent you a PM.

 

[KyleMo]

When I put my bearings in, I lubed them with brake slider lube. It's high temp & won't evaporate. I put it on the yellow bearings and also on the aluminum bushings, which will allow for movement without noise and slightly less wear due to the lube between surfaces. I've put like 6500miles on the car since installation and have heard absoultely no noise at all. Just my .02 cents

 

[Zishan]

Some people are having problems with the control arm sliding back and forth. In my case, lubrication will not resolve the noise issue.

 

[liftnot]

My bearings are still good. Here is the info if you need spares.

Pos P/N QTY UOM Price $ Total $

1 JFM-3034-20 4.00 $/Pc $5.83 $23.32
2 JSM-3034-20 4.00 $/Pc $4.99 $19.96

Greg Hamilton @ igus, Oregon
Ph: 888-803-7237
Email: [email protected]

For lubricans we recommend...3-In-1 Oils, Petroleum-Based Grease, Waylube Oil, Lightwieght Oils. We don't recommend WD-40, PTFE Sprays, Silicon Oils, Greese or Spray, or Fluorocarbons...hope that helps.

 

[SEEYABOSS]

noisey camber kit

hard bang noise in rt rear over the slightest surface variation even in parking lots doing 5 mph. HELP ! LESS THAN 2K SINCE INSTALLED, MOSTLY HIGHWAY CROSS COUNTRY. also get the clunk movement back and forth type noise.nois

 

[liftnot]

I was finally able to duplicate the noise during a H&R spring installation AFTER I removed the lower shock mount and slid the upper control arm back and forth and there was the clicking noise coming from the "J" bearings being worn out.

I lubed with 3-in-1 and the squeeking is gone but I plan to take the camber kit assembly apart and replace it with a new set of "J" bearings and hopefully the alloy section of the camber kit is not damaged.

Back in Jan.,(5k miles ago) the car was able to hold the align spec. but now I can eye-balled my rear wheels and able to tell the camber and the toe is off.

Anybody has a set of oem bushings I can buy just in case my camber kit is beyond repair?

 

[NSXCessive]

Re-tensioned mine and the noise has seemed to have gone away for now. I have very little almost no play after re-tensioning the pivots. Follow Thom's instructions if you find you have excessive play ~2mm.

He did send out instructions to everyone's PM. If not follow his directions below for removing the play:

There are two ways to remove the play you speak of:

1. Perform this on one side at a time.
   
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1. Loosen the bolts to the Pivots enough that you have play, both front and back; four bolts
2. Force both the front pivot toward the rear of the car and the rear pivot toward the front of the car; basically move the pivots towards each other.
3. While holding this tension re-tighten the bolts. You may need someone to help you.
4. What you are accomplishing is removing the play and ensuring the pivots are seated against the flange bearing; which is to say the polymere bearing is sandwiched.

1. OR Remove the sleeve bearing and replace it with a flange bearing; This will remove the 2mm of play
   
   ​

1. This will require filing on your control arm to remove the casting protrusions and flaten up the side the bearing will seat on.

-​

Thom