Engine removal

[TANTO]

What height of jack stands are needed? Assuming one uses a very low tranny jack under the engine, it seems that very high stands would be needed. Anyone actually measure? TIA

 

[Larry Bastanza]

22" iirc

 

[gsrboy]

More stuff came today

Ended up getting the Power Enterprise timing belt
Complete AN conversion for fuel lines

Cams are almost complete and headers/exhaust soon as well. Hopefully have everything completed thanksgiving.

 

[gsrboy]

Valve covers are done! Powder coated white.

 

[silverc4s]

Very impressed by your choices & skills. Want to see the final product.

 

[gsrboy]

Very impressed by your choices & skills. Want to see the final product.

Thanks man, I excited to get alot more work done this weekend when im back home.

Web Cams (bisimoto lvl 3 cams custom grinds)

 

[synergy004]

Valvecovers look great, get that bad boy moving!!!

 

[gsrboy]

Valvecovers look great, get that bad boy moving!!!

thanks man,

Head torqued down, cams coming in tomorrow.

 

[greenberet]

Head torqued down, cams coming in tomorrow.

That engine looks great!

Before you install the cams, could you measure how much lift they give (see post #166)?

 

[gsrboy]

That engine looks great!

Before you install the cams, could you measure how much lift they give (see post #166)?

ops sorry man, totally missed that.

Its about .431" intake and .37-8" exhaust.

 

[myhui]

Where did you get the ITBs? Jenvey Dynamics? Toda Racing? You already said last time that they weren't from Science of Speed.

 

[gsrboy]

nope not from sos, its jenvey's system though.

 

[DocL]

What a great project. I don't think I'd have the guts to do a rebuild myself.

 

[myhui]

nope not from sos, its jenvey's system though.

My next guess: you got the ITBs from Endyn, who sourced it from Jenvey but did their own mods? I see that Endyn also did the head work for you.

Endyn likes to use HyTech anti-reversion exhausts in-house.

 

[passline]

Incredible thread here. Glad you went with the ITBs. You have tremendous patience in that exactly a year ago you had just finished polishing out the crank and received the sleeved-out block back from Benson's. Nice job and NA is the route to go. I am slowly becoming jealous by the month as this project progresses! :wink:

 

[enkrypt3d]

/subscribed - I wanna do this to my car but still be able to pass smog tests here in CA so I probably couldn't get away with ITB's lol looks sick man! Lets see some finished shots! :biggrin:

 

[gsrboy]

Thanks guys,

I am back to school but Ill be done with finals next week. Ill get more work done then and have some more updates then. I am going to get the cams dialed in and degreed properly next.

 

[NSXclear]

Exactly a year ago, you asked how to remove the shift cables and I thought to myself that maybe you shouldn't be working on the NSX yourself.

Boy, was I wrong. :biggrin: You should be working on my NSX when your done !!!

 

[Stevon]

There is no clutch cable, it's hydraulic just disconnect it at the hose or you can leave it connected and unbolt slave cylinder then tie it off to the side, romove lower bolts on rear shocks, Remove parking brake cables from calipers, unbolt ABS speed sensors from knuckles along with their cable hold downs on control arms, disconnect caliper hydraulic lines, disconect the engine wiring harness from inside the car and leave it draped over the engine, take exhaust off from the header pipe back, diconnect shift cabes on trans unbolting and pulling cotter pins, remove all ground straps, diconnect fuel lines, vent lines, unbolt emisions vacumn solanoid assembly and lay it on engine, unbolt A/C compressor from block or release r132 and disconnect hoses. To remove engine/trans/suspension cradle I suggest dropping it out the bottom onto the ground then lifting the body away. It's not as dificult as it seems, I did it twice with a $150 engine lift in my driveway! be glad to answer and questions, have done this twice. See my project: http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/sh...=11453&cat=500

Stephen

This is the first time I actually touched the motor since I had the car. I need to drop the motor and have trouble finding any articles on this. Is there a step by step write up for dropping the motor? I have the wiring harness and coolant lines detatched. How hard is it to remove the clutch cable? Is there anything else I should watch out for?

Thanks

 

[NSX_Acura_91]

Awesome work. You make me want to drop mine and rebuild it.

 

[enkrypt3d]

There is no clutch cable, it's hydraulic just disconnect it at the hose or you can leave it connected and unbolt slave cylinder then tie it off to the side, romove lower bolts on rear shocks, Remove parking brake cables from calipers, unbolt ABS speed sensors from knuckles along with their cable hold downs on control arms, disconnect caliper hydraulic lines, disconect the engine wiring harness from inside the car and leave it draped over the engine, take exhaust off from the header pipe back, diconnect shift cabes on trans unbolting and pulling cotter pins, remove all ground straps, diconnect fuel lines, vent lines, unbolt emisions vacumn solanoid assembly and lay it on engine, unbolt A/C compressor from block or release r132 and disconnect hoses. To remove engine/trans/suspension cradle I suggest dropping it out the bottom onto the ground then lifting the body away. It's not as dificult as it seems, I did it twice with a $150 engine lift in my driveway! be glad to answer and questions, have done this twice. See my project: http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/sh...=11453&cat=500

Stephen

Haha have you read this post? He's pretty much done with removing the engine.... go back a few pages and you'll see what he's doing...

 

[Hksdrager7]

There is no clutch cable, it's hydraulic just disconnect it at the hose or you can leave it connected and unbolt slave cylinder then tie it off to the side, romove lower bolts on rear shocks, Remove parking brake cables from calipers, unbolt ABS speed sensors from knuckles along with their cable hold downs on control arms, disconnect caliper hydraulic lines, disconect the engine wiring harness from inside the car and leave it draped over the engine, take exhaust off from the header pipe back, diconnect shift cabes on trans unbolting and pulling cotter pins, remove all ground straps, diconnect fuel lines, vent lines, unbolt emisions vacumn solanoid assembly and lay it on engine, unbolt A/C compressor from block or release r132 and disconnect hoses. To remove engine/trans/suspension cradle I suggest dropping it out the bottom onto the ground then lifting the body away. It's not as dificult as it seems, I did it twice with a $150 engine lift in my driveway! be glad to answer and questions, have done this twice. See my project: http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/sh...=11453&cat=500

Stephen

your link is not working. I would like to see it.

 

[clr1024]

Subscribed, awesome build!

 

[gsrboy]

Thanks guys, the motor is all ready for the shop now. The cams are going to be dialed in thursday and the motor should be going in the car by next weekend. More updates when I get the motor back.

 

[clr1024]

Thanks guys, the motor is all ready for the shop now. The cams are going to be dialed in thursday and the motor should be going in the car by next weekend. More updates when I get the motor back.

Did you end up stroking the motor? One guy here did a 3.8L N/A said it was surreal to drive and how the NSX should of been out of the factory...was a sick project...certainly not a cheap way to go HP wise but man would love it, think it was just under 400 rwhp.

Edit: I know you had the crank polished but before were going turbo, so was wondering if you changed your mind and considered stroking it since you were going the NA route.