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New Part for July: Type-R style front chassis bars

Joined
6 February 2001
Messages
801
Location
San Diego, CA, USA
Yes it is a month late but what can you do?

Front Frame Type-R Style Stabilizer Bar: Dali: bead blasted: $99.00

dali-front-frame-stabilizer-bar-full.big.jpg


Just like the JDM Type-R front or upper chassis bar but better because we made it. All billet 6061 T-6 construction, not an overpriced 50 series extrusion or a heavy steel tube. Length adjustment feature allows for you to dial it in for the different years width variations between frame crossmembers or retain one or both of the OEM tie down brackets for that potential emergency or remove them both to save weight. A tad less expensive than the other options too. Available in bead blasted natural aluminum or.......


a nice black anodized finish: $109.00


dali-front-frame-stabilizer-bar-black-fake-zoooom.jpg


We're so awesome. :biggrin:
 
That adjustment mechanism screams out, "weak point when under stress" to me.
Its actually quite similar to how a steering tie rod gets adjusted, which has exponentially more stress than some chassis reinforcement bar.. I'll get one whenever MJ gets his street/track bars back in stock:tongue:
 
Its actually quite similar to how a steering tie rod gets adjusted, which has exponentially more stress than some chassis reinforcement bar..

You caught me - that's where I got the idea, it is exactly how the NSX rear tie rod is made. :redface:

I'll get one whenever MJ gets his street/track bars back in stock:tongue:

that would be end of Aug or early Sept. If you were a wild man like Capt. H you could step up to the track bar size.
 
I got my installed today. Very......happy.:biggrin::biggrin:

The concept works, rock soild piece with adjustability. Simply brilliant design.
 
Is it easy to install without any modification?

Does it have any benefits for the NA1 coupe with just Eibach springs?

Yes and yes...

Both these points were explained in the first post. :)

Its a must if you have your car lowered. Add sway bars for more of an effect.
 
Would you please provide more detail why it is a must for lowered car? I was under the impression that the coupe chassis is stiff enough?

Thanks, :wink:

I was wondering the same thing, why is it a "must" for a lowered car?

Oh coupe chassis is stiff enough, but it can always be made to be stiffer, and a stiffer chassis never hurts.
 
Would you please provide more detail why it is a must for lowered car? I was under the impression that the coupe chassis is stiff enough?

Thanks, :wink:

well it doesnt have to be lowered for it to work...

you can never have a chassis that is "too stiff" and any improvements that can be made, should be made. (ie lowering, sway bars, chassis bars etc [thats not to say that lowering the car stiffens the chassis]) simple stuff really guys..

Koolaid I thought for sure u'd get this.. :confused:
 
well it doesnt have to be lowered for it to work...

you can never have a chassis that is "too stiff" and any improvements that can be made, should be made. (ie lowering, sway bars, chassis bars etc [thats not to say that lowering the car stiffens the chassis]) simple stuff really guys..

Koolaid I thought for sure u'd get this.. :confused:

Oh ok, it's the "must" part that threw me off :biggrin: I was trying to figure out how loads might change when the car is lowered and other random stuff lol

True, a stiffer chassis never hurts.
 
yes, this part can be use a few ways,

MJ made a great part (plus great price) that I am sure in near future will be used for others uses,:wink: all it needs will be different ends, or added plates. And because of the adjustments, it is easier to install in tight spots but still have the stiffness enforced once you tighten it. You can just put your hand on the bar after tightening, you feel the strength of the bar working. I can move the NSX back in forth a bit with one hand on the bar that's how tight it is.

Yes, I had a fabricator use L shape aluminum plates, measured and drilled and cut. (about 2 hours of RD) Once its done, it can be made real fast.

In this area, if you look at your NSX, is a tight spot. Just like the NSX-r bottom brace, where it bolts on, this is just the top side of the bolts for your front suspension arms to the chassis frame.

I have seen this done when putting a roll cage (look on Track forum for race car build) you will see these areas are good for connection for stiffness and cage.

And for $99 bucks, you just gave yourself some Bling(it looks cool I think) factor when you open the hood, and no other NSX has it yet. :rolleyes:

It may fit with a spare tire ( I don't have one) the way it is right now, but...
the plates can be cut a bit different, to put the bar just next to the radiator without touching and hood still clears...you have access to the spare tire.:smile:

get two for $200 bucks, still cheaper then the NSR-r and others out there.

What did you have to do to make it fit there? Any custom brackets or does it just fit in there ?
 
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