Don't know if you have seen this but it's worth mentioning:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96146
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96146
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Please Help With Engine Stall/Idle Problem
- Thread starter TypicalNSX
- Start date
i would take the car to a good nsx mechanic. a quick diagnosis would be probably cheaper than all the parts that gets replaced by trial and error.:smile:
who knows a good nsx mechanic in southern california that won't rip me off?
That would be Larry. And FWIW Daedalus knows his stuff too.
It was stated that the given symptoms were not indicative of either the Main Relay or injectors. It is not surprising that they did not solve the problem.
As for taking it to mechanic: you learn little and, so far, the cost of the education has been very inexpensive. You learn little from success anyways.
TypicalNSX is doing the right thing: Keep going!
Here is some more information:
I would really follow up on NY2NV's lead, sounds promising.
The MIL/CEL (check engine light) is only required to activate when the emissions are affected. The ECU may see a problem, but it may not be telling you about it.
Though, it doesn't really sound like a vacuum leak: A vacuum gauge is inexpensive and is an extremely good diagnosis tool.
depending on the mechanic you can learn a lot. :smile:
a diagnostic should not be that much. im all for dyi but so far, the suggestions right now are just guesses. some educated, some not.
new main relay is 70-80$ and taking apart the injectors, sending them out for cleaning, install them back on? time + efforts + down time.
its a good learn expereince of course but you can always get a diagnostic from a mechanic and then if you can fix the problem, go repair the car yourself.
that way you pay 100$ for diagnostic and save on the parts and time you didnt have to waste.
its my 2cents.
when i was 16, i replaced parts on a car till i fixed it. I was expensive and timing consuming. Now, with more experence, schooling and technical knowledge, i find that trouble shooting and parts testing is much easier, faster and cheaper when i can replace the defective item the first time. Saves me time and the customer money.
hopefully he can get this resolved with out going to a mechanic. :smile:
hows the coolant looking in the car? check to make sure its full. when there is less than optimal coolant, when the engine warms up the idle ghosts up and down. check to see if its full.
happy motoring.
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check these in the order specified.
1) other idle control valve
2) fuel supply
3) egr valve OR idle control valve OR atmospheric pressure sensor.
check egr. if i had to go by symptoms alone, i would start there.
1) other idle control valve
2) fuel supply
3) egr valve OR idle control valve OR atmospheric pressure sensor.
check egr. if i had to go by symptoms alone, i would start there.
thanks for the input ron98.
whats the other idle control valve? i'm not sure if the 95+ have them.
fuel supply do you mean pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator?
i've suspected it to be the egr valve but some people have told me you don't need the egr valve to run anyways, i guess because the ecu has its own preset settings.
whats the other idle control valve? i'm not sure if the 95+ have them.
fuel supply do you mean pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator?
i've suspected it to be the egr valve but some people have told me you don't need the egr valve to run anyways, i guess because the ecu has its own preset settings.
Hi there
you do not need the egr valve to run. its only an emission device and many people take them off.
if the EGR valve stays open when its not suppose to, it will flood the engine with exhaust gases and your car will die just like you discribed.
EgR does not activate till engine is warmed up and will not be on during idle. If it is stuck or held open or opens when the car is warmed up upon idle, the car will idle rough and die.
you do not need the egr valve to run. its only an emission device and many people take them off.
if the EGR valve stays open when its not suppose to, it will flood the engine with exhaust gases and your car will die just like you discribed.
EgR does not activate till engine is warmed up and will not be on during idle. If it is stuck or held open or opens when the car is warmed up upon idle, the car will idle rough and die.
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under the "other idle adjustment"
there is the idle adjustment screw.
have you checked that? it is located on your throttle body. On the later years, the idle adjustment screw is acturally covered by a layer of puddy like material. You can take a flat head and chip away the puddy to access the adjustment screw.
Back the screw out about 6 turns then work your way back till you get the desired idle. make sure the car is warmed up to operating temp.
since the Trouble shooting flow chart says check the idle adustment screw first, i would do that first.
there is the idle adjustment screw.
have you checked that? it is located on your throttle body. On the later years, the idle adjustment screw is acturally covered by a layer of puddy like material. You can take a flat head and chip away the puddy to access the adjustment screw.
Back the screw out about 6 turns then work your way back till you get the desired idle. make sure the car is warmed up to operating temp.
since the Trouble shooting flow chart says check the idle adustment screw first, i would do that first.
hmmm that egr thing is worth looking at more closely, thanks.
the idle is fine where i want it. its just that the car stalls after coming down from the rev. when its sitting there its fine. the rpms just go down too far below the idle and dies.
if i adjust the idle, will the idle just stay high as in 1000rpm or a little above forever? cold and hot?
the idle is fine where i want it. its just that the car stalls after coming down from the rev. when its sitting there its fine. the rpms just go down too far below the idle and dies.
if i adjust the idle, will the idle just stay high as in 1000rpm or a little above forever? cold and hot?
If there is a problem with the EGR valve you will get a CEL, its position is monitored by the ECU so as long as you are not getting a CELL it's unlikely you have a problem with the EGR valve.
Have you checked the dash pot and the flow valve in the line to it.
The idle speed is controlled by the ECU for the most part assuming everything is set up properly.
Have you checked the dash pot and the flow valve in the line to it.
The idle speed is controlled by the ECU for the most part assuming everything is set up properly.
hun. well take a look at the 3 listed steps above that does not cost money, then if your still stumped, take it to your local nsx mechanic. you can always ask them to explain whats going on and that way im sure you will still get a first hand education. also you'll probably learn some trouble shooting procedures.:smile:
when going by the book, these 3 steps are the trouble flow chart to resolving a idle stall when warm symptom..
when going by the book, these 3 steps are the trouble flow chart to resolving a idle stall when warm symptom..
the problem is that i've taken it to the local nsx mechanic near me here in san diego, well the one that i know of and quite frankly i wasn't too happy with the service. don't want to name names but i'm having an extremely hard time finding an efficient shop that won't rip me off. i've been advised to go see tony in kearny and as of right now theres nobody picking up the phone. i'll try again soon
this is the reason i started doing my own stuff because most mechanics will not care about ur car as much as u do so its always better to check prime on diy stuff because if its easy enough, you can do it without having to get ripped off, and u might learn a lot of stuff too.
if all else fails in my area i might have to take it up to valencia to your shop ron98. how much will it cost for you to diagnose my problem? are you going by the book for a 91 or a 95-96?
this is the reason i started doing my own stuff because most mechanics will not care about ur car as much as u do so its always better to check prime on diy stuff because if its easy enough, you can do it without having to get ripped off, and u might learn a lot of stuff too.
if all else fails in my area i might have to take it up to valencia to your shop ron98. how much will it cost for you to diagnose my problem? are you going by the book for a 91 or a 95-96?
dash pot? whats that
you have a pm.
everything is done by the book. Once i see the car in person and hear /feel the symptoms, i'll be able to have a better gauge as to where to start.
also you can watch me do the tests and i'll explain it as we go along so you will also getting first hand information.
acura nsx manual section 11 sub section 5.
ah give me a second, i'll post a picture.
easy way to find it.
looking at the engine bay from the driver side.
look at the intake tube leading from the box to the Throttle body.
right on top of the intake tube, there will be a little metal fitting and a black tube sticking out. Follow that tube to the left hand side of the TB and slightly down and you'll see it.
Have you taken it to Jerry at Greenlight Honda in Kearny Mesa? He probably services over half of the NSX's here in San Diego. He is very knowledgable and honest.
If I were closer to Ron98 or if it was very expensive to fix, I would have gotten the car up to RON98. He's pricing is very reasonable and he spends a lot of time here on this forum helping members.
I know your feelings about not taking it to a mechanic. I went through almost 15 parts of swapping with another NSX, until I concluded that my problem was a bad fuel pump. And boy did it feel good once it was fixed, without having to go to a mechanic. :smile: It would probably have been cheaper to have gone to the mechanic in the first place as Ron98 stated, but I made it a mission to find and fix the problem myself.
Good Luck.
If I were closer to Ron98 or if it was very expensive to fix, I would have gotten the car up to RON98. He's pricing is very reasonable and he spends a lot of time here on this forum helping members.
I know your feelings about not taking it to a mechanic. I went through almost 15 parts of swapping with another NSX, until I concluded that my problem was a bad fuel pump. And boy did it feel good once it was fixed, without having to go to a mechanic. :smile: It would probably have been cheaper to have gone to the mechanic in the first place as Ron98 stated, but I made it a mission to find and fix the problem myself.
Good Luck.
thanks for the advice, actually i know jerry very well, he sprayed down my throttle body to clean once and it worked, this time it stalled and he did the same thing and guess what, i didn't work, he told me it still needed to learn since the computer was reset. i doubt that was the problem.
the person that actually rebuilt my motor was mike at factor x. currently he isn't returning my phone calls so thats why i'm trying to fix it myself. i wonder how reliable other built motors are out there.
TypicalNSX, I have pretty much the same problem as you. I have a 92 5spd and when mine is cold it doesn't act up. When the car is hot, not moving, with the clutch pressed in, all I do is move the shifter out of any gear into neutral and the RPMs go really low and come back up again. Sometimes the car will die but not usually. Remember the car is stoped not moving and the clutch is pressed in and holding. Now, when I move the shifter back into any gear the RPMs will raise up and then come back down again. It is the oddest thing but I haven't had time to diagnosis it yet. So, if anyone comes up with the solution I would sure like to know.
sounds like its a dirty throttle body for u. for me, its something totally different. i would spray the throttle down. thats usually the case 99% of the time.
I have this same exact problem. Did you ever get a solution?
Thanks,
Fox
Thanks,
Fox
- Joined
- 15 March 2008
- Messages
- 46
ditto
When coming down from revs in stop-n-go traffic mine almost stalls then picks back up to idle at the last second. It did stall once on the last drive. I kept my foot on throttle the remaining time. It's seems to be getting worse.
Had an O2 sensor replaced at the dealer under warranty Thursday. CEL had no code for idle any other issues. Dealer cleard it and I have no CEL currently.
Sounds like this may be more common. Any solutions?
Your idle passage in your throttle body is clogged.
TypicalNSX,
In the 1995 manual, locate the "Idle Setting" procedure and perform it. This is only for 1995+ cars, since they are TBW. Page 11-128
HTH,
LarryB
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There is no higher achievement than memorizing the service manual. :biggrin:
Well, perhaps a few Iron Maiden stickers..... nah, the manual wins!
I too am having this exact same problem! Mine is a 1995. I have the 1991 manual, and the 1997-2005 manual, but not the 1995 manual. Any chance someone can post the procedure here? (Or a scan of that page from the manual). Man, that would sure be a life-saver!
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