After 120,000 miles my stock clutch has finally given up the ghost. I am looking at aftermarket clutches and wonder what experiences (goood or bad) you guys have had with after market clutch installations. I am presently looking at Spec, and Clutchmasters, but will consider others. And is a light weight flywheel worth the extra $$$ ? Oh! and where would you recommend having the insatallation done, my local Acura dealer (Great NSX technician) will not install aftermarket parts!!! :frown:
Replacement clutch...who's got the beef?
- Thread starter darcon
- Start date
If you got 120,000 miles on the stocker 
why would you go with anything else.
why would you go with anything else.
I concur! The OEM clutch is really nice. Unless you are planning on adding serious power, why not go OEM?
I agree. I think the stock clutch is unreal. My only question is how you got 120k out of your stock clutch? 
:biggrin:
:biggrin:
I had no problems with oem and if your car is stock and you are happy with that and don't drag race or track the car alot,and don't expect to go FI then get oem.I've been happy with my tech at Motorworld Acura in Wilkes Barre,if you go that route ask for Brian to do the work.FWIW I have the comptech powergrip 1,and like it.
Darcon,
You should replace it with a NEW oem clutch and get another 120K miles.
HTH,
LarryB
You should replace it with a NEW oem clutch and get another 120K miles.
HTH,
LarryB
I found this website from SOS a great resource. What it comes down to is how much you want it to behave like your OEM clutch.
Thanks for the 120K of encouragement.... I've got 41K on my 97 and always assume a new clutch is around the corner. You've given me hope :biggrin: that I can go couple more years.
If you go with aftermarket, let us know how you like it.
Thanks for the 120K of encouragement.... I've got 41K on my 97 and always assume a new clutch is around the corner. You've given me hope :biggrin: that I can go couple more years.
If you go with aftermarket, let us know how you like it.
Why you want an aftermarket clutch?
If you looking for durability, follow larry's advice.
Light flywheel can be combined with a stock clutch, i have done it, and i'm happy with it.
If you looking for durability, follow larry's advice.
Light flywheel can be combined with a stock clutch, i have done it, and i'm happy with it.
I have CM and would not recomend it to anyone else based purely on the install/engagement issues I had with thier setup. It took my local dealership 3 install tries with 2 different CM setups before it worked. My dealership charged me for all three installs!!!
After hearing that the OEM clutch usually wears out at around 50k or 60k miles I was surprised that mine was still going strong at 80k or so. I cannot say that I baby the car but I do not abuse it. No! I do not drag race, but I do enjoy dropping it into 3rd gear when I am cruising at 90 or so...thanks to the instructors at the driving school just down the road in Blakeslee, PA I really learned to heel and toe fairly well. I do plan to add I/H/E/ in the near future so I feel that a slight upgrade is warranted. And while I haven't done it yet, I do plan to track the car every once in a while. I have to tell you guys I genuinely appreciate the input.
Maybe with forced induction, but not with I/H/E...darcon said:
BRIDGEWATER ACURA said:My only question is how you got 120k out of your stock clutch?
Mine is approaching 125k and still feels great.
I concur, get another OEM clutch. As to who to install it, if LB is not far away, look no further.
I went with the RPS Max series with CynR-G segmented flywheel. Nothing wrong with OEM but this is another option with my review...
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46841
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46841
Well I guess my mind is made up. After careful consideration and much deliberation and a conversation with Chris at SOS. I am going with the RPS clutch. The factors in my decision were:
1. Cost....for a few dollars more I can get a clutch with
a patented pressure plate and a lifetime warranty.
2. The added performance of a lightweight flywheel.
3. The flexibility to accomodate any Horsepower upgrades
I may choose to install.
4. And finally If I can get 120k miles from OEM, this clutch
should last forever.
Again I sincerely appreciate all of the input and counsel that you guys have offered. Where would I be without ya' ? :biggrin:
Let's make the world a better place for all of us
darcon
1. Cost....for a few dollars more I can get a clutch with
a patented pressure plate and a lifetime warranty.
2. The added performance of a lightweight flywheel.
3. The flexibility to accomodate any Horsepower upgrades
I may choose to install.
4. And finally If I can get 120k miles from OEM, this clutch
should last forever.
Again I sincerely appreciate all of the input and counsel that you guys have offered. Where would I be without ya' ? :biggrin:
Let's make the world a better place for all of us
darcon
Excellent choice! You won't regret it. It takes a litte getting used to the stiffness but you'll acquire the taste quickly and won't be able to live without it!
enjoy!
enjoy!
We recommend the factory clutch and the RPS clutch most often.
The factory clutch is good for a daily driven relatively stock car with a driver who wants similar to stock pedal effort. The disadvantage is the friction liner used is somewhat fragile. For a twin plate performance clutch, it is also fairly heavy. We offer the JUN ultralight flywheel as an option. In addition to reducing power loss from rotating mass, the lighter rotating assembly allows the driver to rev match, toe heel down shift noticeably quicker. We offer this clutch package with both bearings for $1395.00.
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...mance_products/NSX/Honda/factory_twin_clutch/
For aggressive driving and modified cars, we recommend the RPS clutch. The RPS clutch has a few design features that really makes it shine. The clutch uses a patented flywheel design with a segmented friction disc which allows the aluminum flywheel to expand radially and not warp like other 2 piece flywheels. The clutch is also lighter than the factory twin plate clutch and significantly lighter than the later factory single disc clutch. This allows the engine to spin up noticeably faster. The clutch also uses readily available German made discs and pressure plates. The disc material is a reinforced organic Kevlar liner which is very smooth in engagement. This design allows the clutch to be inexpensively rebuilt allowing it to be less expensive than the factory clutch in the long run. The disadvantage to the RPS clutch is the increased pedal effort (about 50%) due to the increased clamp load used for high holding power. Personally, I prefer the heavier clutch effort to the low effort of the factory clutch; however, everyone will have their preference. The RPS clutch is the clutch we prefer and install in our own cars. We sell this clutch for $1795.00 including both bearings.
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/drivetrain_performance_products/NSX/RPS/
Cheers,
-- Chris
The factory clutch is good for a daily driven relatively stock car with a driver who wants similar to stock pedal effort. The disadvantage is the friction liner used is somewhat fragile. For a twin plate performance clutch, it is also fairly heavy. We offer the JUN ultralight flywheel as an option. In addition to reducing power loss from rotating mass, the lighter rotating assembly allows the driver to rev match, toe heel down shift noticeably quicker. We offer this clutch package with both bearings for $1395.00.
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...mance_products/NSX/Honda/factory_twin_clutch/
For aggressive driving and modified cars, we recommend the RPS clutch. The RPS clutch has a few design features that really makes it shine. The clutch uses a patented flywheel design with a segmented friction disc which allows the aluminum flywheel to expand radially and not warp like other 2 piece flywheels. The clutch is also lighter than the factory twin plate clutch and significantly lighter than the later factory single disc clutch. This allows the engine to spin up noticeably faster. The clutch also uses readily available German made discs and pressure plates. The disc material is a reinforced organic Kevlar liner which is very smooth in engagement. This design allows the clutch to be inexpensively rebuilt allowing it to be less expensive than the factory clutch in the long run. The disadvantage to the RPS clutch is the increased pedal effort (about 50%) due to the increased clamp load used for high holding power. Personally, I prefer the heavier clutch effort to the low effort of the factory clutch; however, everyone will have their preference. The RPS clutch is the clutch we prefer and install in our own cars. We sell this clutch for $1795.00 including both bearings.
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/drivetrain_performance_products/NSX/RPS/
Cheers,
-- Chris
Pirana said:
Yes! Everything is included in the $1795 purchase price. From what I understand the Exedy clutch is better suited to racing applications. Although I believe pedal effort will be about the same.
I even considered the OEM clutch with the light weight flywheel option but the RPS setup appears to offer more durability, and the warranty plus service issues really won me over.
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