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RYU's "properly molested" NSX build thread

On your Toda oil pump gear did it fit in the factory housing without any modification? SOS Is working on my block and I gave them a new oil pump and Toda gear but they are telling me the Toda gear is slightly binding in the new housing. I’m just curious if you experienced the same issue and had to do some machine work.
Andrew
 
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On your Toda oil pump gear did it fit in the factory housing without any modification? SOS Is working on my block and I gave them a new oil pump and Toda gear but they are telling me the Toda gear is slightly binding in the new housing. I’m just curious if you experienced the same issue and had to do some machine work.
Andrew

FWIW when I bought a Toda oil pump gear and new OEM oil pump the clearances were perfect with no modifications needed.

I have Toda oil pump too, and it was a direct fit in my low mileage engine. You can see it here:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/170650-BBVNSX-93-EDM-NSX-From-Portugal!?p=1715959&viewfull=1#post1715959
 
I finished a lot of tedious work on the car this weekend. The kind of work that yields low social media engagement. You know... like changing ball joints. They're a pain in the ass to do. No one sees the work, but you feel the difference right away as a driver.

I finished the dual wideband O2 sensor update. After I deciphered the cryptic HKS instruction manual I managed to get the display I wanted. Just imagine programming a complicated early 2000's digital device with only 2 buttons and a scroll wheel thru a monotone LCD screen. It was like UP UP DOWN DOWN LEFT RIGHT LEFT ^100. Then imagine doing this with the aid of a loosely translated "ingles" manual from Japanese. No photos will do this process justice so i'll just save you from the photos.

Then I also updated/R&R'd the S2K EPS steering rack. I was starting to notice some squeaking and potential play through the steering wheel. It wasn't obvious but noticeable. I contacted [MENTION=6927]nsxmugen[/MENTION] and he's just an amazing guy. Very willing to help. I decided to hard mount the rack onto his housing which is hard mounted to chassis. In my latest setup there is zero squish from the rubber gaskets he was using to isolate NVH thru to the wheel. Oddly enough no noticeable NVH was felt through my very short test drive. This process is a bit of a pain in the ass because to get to the steering rack with the car on jackstands all of my underbody NSX-R covering has to come off. The main battery has to come out. My compressor and air tank for my axle lift kit has to come out. The battery bracket/tray assembly has to be removed and the NSX-R chassis bracing has to all come off. Not to mention the odd contortions your body has to get into the remove the splined u-joint under the dashboard. Definitely not my favorite job. It ranks right up there with removing the gas tank.

I also updated the Torque Sensor for the EPS. Wow, what a difference. It almost has too much assist. I didn't realize the original TQ sensor I had may have been out of spec. I have to dig into this more with [MENTION=6927]nsxmugen[/MENTION] but it feels the same as an S2K rack in terms of assist. I need to do more testing with better tires to provide a proper verdict. My initial knee jerk reaction was "it's too much assist". I might go back to my old sensor. Perhaps there's a way to calibrate the sensor to provide an assist level that's in between? It's still no way as much assist as your typical Accord though or my 2019 Clarity. It feels like a tad bit less assist than an NA2 rack as well. Need more time to test......................

Here's a photo of the "girdle" I used to lock the steering rack from moving left/right. This stainless steel bracket sandwiches between the bracket and the rack in place of the rubber gasket. I'm sure if I had more time and more CAD skills I could design a proper bracket in Fusion 360 but I feel safe with this option and will solve the problem going forward.
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I also rebuilt my front Brembos. It's been sitting in a box since 2015 NSXPO at Thunderhill because of bad vibrations under braking. As mentioned earlier, 1 or more of the pistons may have seized. The calipers need a fresh coat of powdercoat. They've seen better days. I wanted to get them on the car and tested before I spent the money to get them refinished. After several miles of testing they seem to work as normal. These have a 38/42mm piston size so the front bias with the stock rear NA2 brakes are insane. My 00+ ABS was being exercised like crazy yesterday. Now I'll have the messy job of taking these off (again) to prep them for a refinish. I think i'm getting too old for this haha
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I also decided to build that plenum spacer. I'm not sure if the decrease in viewable rear view window will be worth it but I suppose it's worth a try. A friend of mine will help CAD it up. It will be interesting to see what some additional plenum volume will
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Lastly, this cabin air filter is GREAT! Desmond W. from facebook provides these. He even gives 2 extra filters.
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RYU, who is doing your 3.6 engine build? I have been considering this myself but I don't know which is the best shop to tackle this.
 
Just a few updates. Sadly no photos because I joined in the fabrication. Dirty hands does not make for good smart phone hygene.

1. The HJS cats have been fab'd and installed. I'm very excited about these cats. The one surprise is how noticeably bigger and heavier they are compared to standard HF cats.

2. After the last few track days with the Comptech V2 exhaust. I suspected I blew out all the stuffing. Are you sitting down for this? Well, I decided to cut a big access door on top of it so it can effectively be rebuildable. I wasn't comfortable selling it "blown" like that. So I ordered a bunch of mixed stuffing materials from Burns Stainless. I'll go through in detail how I go about rebuilding it. Interestingly enough... I'm glad I chose the Comptech exhaust to cut open. The shell is made from quite heavy gauge stainless so even with the door cut out structurally weakening it, it still all held together nicely. The tips are still aligned. Time will tell if under sustained track temperatures if it will maintain it's shape... At least now i'll be able to get back the subtle exhaust note the Comptech is known for.

3. The Wavetrac LSD does require some additional clearancing to fit a 6spd. What exactly that clearancing is I don't yet know but our guy has already successfully rebuilt Nemo's 6spd with the same LSD so mine is being worked on now.

I'm hoping everything goes in before the end of the year. It would be a nice to start off the year with the 3.6L and the 6spd. Then i'll only have to worry about the tune.
 
nothing more embarrassing than a rattle can blown exhaust at a track day...I blew up a DC exhaust at pocono..... yowza just awful sounding.
 
nothing more embarrassing than a rattle can blown exhaust at a track day...I blew up a DC exhaust at pocono..... yowza just awful sounding.
Oddly the comptech sounded pretty good in it's blown state. Depending on how one uses the term "blown". In my case all the stuffing just burned away. The physical integrity of the muffler was just fine. It was just a heck of a lot louder and it progressively got louder throughout that track day. I attribute the strenght to the heavy duty carcass. The stainless used on that muffler is quite good.
 
The DC was bad...
 
Just a few updates here and there over the holidays...

I'm still in search for the perfect braking solution. Oddly enough I liked the performance of my Rotora 13"/14" BBK the best but those are long gone (sold) and would not fit under a 17" rear wheel. I'm not sure I liked my Brembo solution which I talked about the rebuild a few posts back. I dug into my pile and pulled out my front Stoptech ST40 kit. By itself, it hate the brake bias when paired with the NA2 OE rear brakes. The current solution i've been testing is using a custom setup I built using a Boxster rear brake caliper and a AP Racing rotor. This gives me a 59% front bias setup. Note: 2002 Type R OEM bias is 55%. 4 corner Stoptech is 63%. Front only kits are somewhere north of 75% or higher ---> basically immediate front tire lock up which I hated. The only thing I hate about a 4 wheel BBK setup on the NSX are the shitty choices of e-brake assemblies. This brembo setup is annoying me at the moment.

Front off-the-shelf ST-40 Stoptech kit.
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This is my custom rear BBK setup. It's a 330mm rotor but the Brembo e-brake solution or any other e brake solution is lowsy compared to stock. I'm considering going with a electric parking brake assembly.
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Also, i've said this before... the 17/17 wheel/tire combo is AWESOME. Everyone should try it.

The other big To-Do item was to get my HJS cats fabricated. I must say.. I couldn't be happier. My car runs a bit rich at the moment while I refine the tune (rich is safer) so the exhaust smell is awful. These even almost make the smell pleasant. The flow is great. They feel like Test Pipes in terms of power and throttle response. The sound is about 25% louder than the stock cats but about 75% quieter than test pipes. There is just a tiny tiny bit of decel rasp which was obnoxious with TPs and not audible with stock cats. This is all from my highly not calibrated ear and ass dyno btw. They weigh nearly twice as much as the SOS standard cats (shown in the picture) but oh, so worth it. Again.. very happy with these despite the price penalty. I'm curious how these will perform on the CA SMOG Sniffer test.
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Lastly here's my photo dump of a project i've had in mind for a quite a long time. I purchased a Comptech V2 exhaust some years ago. As my car blows out exhaust flames on occassion the first few track days with the muffler burned up all the stuffing. I could tap on the muffler and hear jingle bells from all the emptiness inside. I set this aside for a while thinking of ways to rebuild it. I didn't want to sell it to some poor chap expecting non-blown out Comptech muffler. I like the size and fitment as well as the heavy duty SS construction. Cutting the shell for example took a lot longer than I expected because of the thick guage steel that was used. Definitely not like the cheap ebay mufflers that you can cut with tin snips. It was the heavy construction that gave me confidence to cut it open and install an "access door". Most mufflers deform into a limp noodle when structurally compromised in such a way. Admittedly I did a piss poor job with the cutting wheel. I also did a shitty job with the riv nuts. I will have a stainless frame water jetted and welded around the opening asap as the muffler rebuild seems to be working out quite well.

OK.. less chat. more photos. (the lines are from my vacuum cleaner). Very simple and effective straight through exhaust design.
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Christmas dinner stuffing
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1st layer
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My plan was to have the outer layer be the better sound absorbing glass mat fill.
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Inner layer closest to heat source be the SS "scrubble" as Burns calls it.
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[MENTION=25108]illwillem[/MENTION]'s cat's dream world balls of SS yarn balls
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Forgot to take a photo of the step prior to this which is another layer of scrubble
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For the riv nuts
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Ugly but surprisingly effective. I'll modify the cover with some water jetted parts if this proof of concept works out for the long term. I'M SO SICK OF BLOWN OUT EXHAUSTS :D :D :D
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Regan,

Regarding the brake setup, curious why you didn't go with the Stoptech ST40 solution for the rear. I have the ST40 kit on the front and rear of mine and it is superb (especially on the track). I've had no issues with my e-brake that Stoptech provides with their rear setup.

Mark
 
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Regan,

Regarding the brake setup, curious why you didn't go with the Stoptech ST40 solution for the rear. I have the ST40 kit on the front and rear of mine and it is superb (especially on the track). I've had no issues with my e-brake that Stoptech provides with their rear setup.

Mark
The ST setup F/R is definitely very good. I think it's probably the best thought out BBK that's paired properly with the OEM master cylinder. At the moment, Stoptech/Centric is super backordered on the NSX ST40 kits so you can't even get them. The e-brake setup has no ETA. I was headed down this path in November but decided to just try something new as I have a large pile of random parts for experiments with various cars over the years.

Asides from a tried and true off the shelf solution like the rear ST40 BBK, my setup uses a little lighter monoblock Boxster S caliper with a more favorable bias (at least in my mind because not many humans can feel 3% difference in bias). The ST40 kits uses the same 2 piece caliper with 34/38 front pistons and 28/28 rear pistons, but on the same bulky caliper. I'm now on 34/38 F & 29/31 R. It's marginally a winner for bench racing conversations! LOL

EDIT: If there is any tiny bit of silver lining. I'm approaching the low end of 2600lbs of total vehicle weight with a full interior so a little bit of weight savings here and there is nice. I'll see if this rear BBK solution will be good for the long terms. I may just end up with an ST40 kit when it becomes available.
 
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I forgot to mention something else i've been screwing around with. As suggested here and on Facebook: How much more volume can I add to the CF plenum i'm running? As it turns out... NOT MUCH.

Given the way the plenum has to be elevated to clear the top of the alternator and the ITB linkages as well as the rear strut bar I can only increase the height of the plenum by 15mm before it makes contact with the glass hatch.

I can run this 3D printed 10mm spacer to add *some* volume but I decided it was not worth it for such a little amount added.
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. . . at the moment, Stoptech/Centric is super backordered on the NSX ST40 kits so you can't even get them. The e-brake setup has no ETA.

. . . I have a large pile of random parts for experiments with various cars over the years.

Supply chain woes and bins full of spare parts . . . totally get it.
 
the ponyboy club...
 
Well... We're planning for a swift engine removal and drop-in affair late next week. I believe the only thing transferring over from the my stock (current) setup will be the AC compressor, ITBs, alternator, and OS Giken clutch. HQ is doing their best to put together all the small knick-knacks like rebuilding everything in the Comptech heads which were pretty much bare when I got them. 6spd is fully rebuilt with the 4.23 and wavetrac LSD.

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Yep really a treat to see parts get passed on and documented so nicely..:cool:
 
Asides from the repair to cyl #5 it was just reseated for the 37mm intake valve with full Supertech valvetrain and new HQE cams. Unfortunately, whatever power this engine will make (IF ANY!) I won't be able to attribute it to any one thing. Let's see how far this kitchen sink will go. TBH I'm a little nervous about tuning it. I'll approaching this very timidly with extreme caution.
 
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