This ONE bolt is ruining my life!

[Zishan]

Got some service done a few weeks ago....a number of things. I was running 25mm HR rear spacers. After all the work was completed and the car was back home, I decided to re-install my 18/19's. Installed 3 wheels....get to the last one, passenger rear, and I stripped the 17mm bolt holding the spacer to the hub/wheel stud.

I hose it down with some penetrating lubercant and the next day I grab a 16mm socket. I go to hammer it on with a newly purchased mini-sledge hammer. It's on there good now.

Snap 2 of my Craftsment rackets. The next day, I buy a larger rachet and tackle the pesky bolt again. Rounded the bolt more.

The next day, I go to Sears and purchase one of those stripped/rounded bolt removing kits, with the special shaped sockets. Those are a no go.

A day or two later....another NSXer that was in town stopped by and as a mechanic, suggested drilled a small hole in the side of the bolt to relieve some of the tension. Still a no go.

Being the hard headed type, I pull out my trusty dremel and try shaping the bolt back to a hexagonal shape. No go, ruined the bolt more.

Tried hammering a 15mm socket on tonight and that still won't fit.


So now, I'm completely out of ideas. Any suggestions?

I've thought about freezing the bugger and snapping the bolt and stud off?
I've thought about welding the 16mm socket to it?

Problem is the spacer is installed and I have limited room to work with.

Picture is attached for your viewing pleasure. I know I know, how do I get myself into these situations??? :frown:

 

[CL65 Captain]

Work from the other side (back side) and grind off the head of the stud and knock it though (toward the spacer/outside/wheel side).

 

[Zishan]

Work from the other side (back side) and grind off the head of the stud and knock it though (toward the spacer/outside/wheel side).

I'm not sure how that would play out....the studs are ARP or APR, the super strong ones.

I guess I can try....as I've tried just about everything else... :redface:

 

[CL65 Captain]

I'm not sure how that would play out....the studs are ARP or APR, the super strong ones.

I guess I can try....as I've tried just about everything else... :redface:

You can grind ARPs. I snapped 2 ARPs on the track and I know that I have also dremeled an ARP stud before too so as to remove the tip on the end - they're aren't as "strong" as you think.

 

[socalx]

i like the idea of getting to the back as posted above if you can.

i was going to suggest drilling out the center of the stud, but i see from the picture that some of the stud is no longer present. please let us know what you do

 

[drew]

The next day, I go to Sears and purchase one of those stripped/rounded bolt removing kits, with the special shaped sockets. Those are a no go.

Why is that, it looks like what you need? You need the ones with the external hex...

Next, put the other 4 lugs back on and tighten them down! You are putting all the pressure on a single lug...

This looks challenging indeed! This is hardened steel and it is going to be difficult to cut or drill.

Methods of attack:
Cut off as much of the stud as you can (if it doesn't fit through the bolt out)
Apply heat
Try the sears bolt out again, hammer it on if required!

If that doesn't work, apply more heat and use slow drilling with small drills. Keep it up until you "cracked" the nut. It will come right off. Buy lots of

Another avenue is to try a plasma bolt removing service. (I used to have one on speed dial with my FD).

A sawzall with a carbide blade can do some serious damage, as well as take off the stud...

 

[Zishan]

You can grind ARPs. I snapped 2 ARPs on the track and I know that I have also dremeled an ARP stud before too so as to remove the tip on the end - they're aren't as "strong" as you think.

Wow, you snapped 2? Yup, I presumed they were invincible!

i like the idea of getting to the back as posted above if you can.

i was going to suggest drilling out the center of the stud, but i see from the picture that some of the stud is no longer present. please let us know what you do

I will try working the back of it tomorrow and post results. I should have taken it back to the shop and thanked them for impacting it on in the first place....but for some reason I always try doing things myself. :redface:

 

[W]

You already have one hole in the nut, just drill it bigger. Just be careful not to bottom out on the spacer. If it's still stuck, drill on the other side and so on.

I don't know what type of relationship you have with the shop that over torqued the nut but you may want to bring this up to them before you go any further.

 

[angus]

I would have had this off in about two minutes. The spacer will not be so good anymore but it'll be off.

Use a zip cut blade on an angle grinder and go right down the center of the stud, slicing it and the nut in two and presto!

Problem solved.

Yes, I have had this happen twice before.

Have fun. AND WEAR A FACE MASK.

 

[Zishan]

Thank you gents for the kind replies and suggestions. Looks like I have a few things to try this evening.

I was feeling hopeless.... :redface:

 

[gdae]

I was gonna suggest you blast ... but you might try the other methods first.:smile:
Sorry, Z. Good luck!

 

[pgilliam1]

A cold chisel would probably/eventually chisel it off small pieces at a time especially if you heat it first. Make sure the chisel is sharp. Been there too. This too shall pass.
Good Luck and Happy Motoring!

 

[Edresh]

Try a product called freeze off, its an areosol can that you spray on to freeze the nut, you may try hot and cold method that may break it free, I like the idea of putting the other bolts on first, make sure to use a anti sieze lube on the lugs.

 

[NSXEXY]

i would cut off the tip of that stud, then grind it flat with the tip of the nut, then drill straight through the center of the stud. starting with a small drill then work your way up to a drill thats about the same size of the stud. that will eat up the threads and your nut should be free.

 

[swerve2007]

remove the hub assembly and take it to a machine-shop to mill the stud/hex flat with the inside face of the spacer. that way you can pull the spacer off without killing it and still have some of the stud left for its' removal.

 

[nsxot1c]

Just use an air chisel, you can split the lug in 2 and possibly even save the stud.
Easy and done, in a matter of minutes. It's definitely strong enough to split the lug in 2

 

[KyleMo]

Here in good old eastern Canada where vechiles rust like no other, we use torches alot. And I would use them to cut the stud off. Then replace the stud & nut. To be honest, anyone good with a torch could likely cut the nut off the stud without damage to the stud or spacer, but since the stud is already ruined I'd cut it off. Then once the spacer is off, a hammer and one good hit will get the remainder of the stud out of the hub. Just a suggestion.

 

[Zishan]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't had a chance to tackle it just yet.


The main problem here is I'm a garage mechanic that likes to learn as I go. I do many things on the NSX myself. Having said that, I'm very limited on tools, like a torch.

 

[Ponyboy]

I'd use a low yield nuke to seperate the hub assembly from the rest of the car. Once you find the hub assembly, I'd then proceed to stomp on it and bash it with a heavy blunt instrument of your choosing.

Seriously though, once all general tool solutions have been exhausted, the air chisel would work. And it'd get it done quickly...

 

[swerve2007]

i agree the air-chisel may work BUT you are dealing with a hardened stud so i can guarantee that this will not be a surgical extraction- you will ruin the spacer. removing the hub will take you 30 minutes at most, a machine shop will charge you 20 bucks for a quick mill-job AND you still will have a good spacer to use after you pull the stud out. i am really just trying you prod you in the right direction here- do it right and it will be worth it.

 

[Zishan]

After googling "air chisel" I can completely agree, it appears it would resolve the issue.

Unfortunately, being the basic wrencher/hobby garage mechanic, I don't have air tools. :frown:

That's on my to-do dream list, including a lift, 3-4 car garage, gorgeous wife to bring me refreshments, etc. :biggrin:

I may attack it from the rear as Swerve suggested. I will post method and result.

Sincerest gratitude to all who replied here.

 

[joe]

This may sound crazy and let us know if it works. If you drive the car in a very controlled slow speed area and leave the surrounding nuts loose this may cause the nut to back off by itself. I have heard people who cannot get a stubborn lug nut loose use this method rather than destroy a mag wheel. I have neverr tried this..

 

[angus]

This may sound crazy and let us know if it works. If you drive the car in a very controlled slow speed area and leave the surrounding nuts loose this may cause the nut to back off by itself. I have heard people who cannot get a stubborn lug nut loose use this method rather than destroy a mag wheel. I have neverr tried this..

That has worked in the past on cars that:

- do not have hubcentric wheels

- do not have a stud that is mangled to prevent loosening.

that would not work here since even if the stud was undamaged, the spacer fits tightly on the hub so there is no force being exerted on the studs.

 

[angus]

After googling "air chisel" I can completely agree, it appears it would resolve the issue.

Unfortunately, being the basic wrencher/hobby garage mechanic, I don't have air tools. :frown:

That's on my to-do dream list, including a lift, 3-4 car garage, gorgeous wife to bring me refreshments, etc. :biggrin:

I may attack it from the rear as Swerve suggested. I will post method and result.

Sincerest gratitude to all who replied here.

OK, while the air chisel could work - it is EXTREMELY dangerous and could easily result in bodily injury or damage to the car.

The zip cut like I suggested (while you still need to be careful) is so easy and fast that you will not believe it - you'll kick yourself for not doing this from the start.

Like I said, go straight down the center of the stud vertically and it'll take less than 30 seconds, this will EASILY and cleanly slice the stud and nut in half and your spacer will be off.

I have done this and it is the fastest, easiest solution by far - you may even be able to re-use the spacer.

 

[synergy004]

Z

The zip cut is the easiest route you can go. Hope you get it squared bro. If I was in town i'd drive down with Keoka and knock that bugger out. Let us know what route you go. That bad boy made me chuckle on the Mona Lisa work Sorry had to :biggrin:. My bro did the same thing a couple years ago and about blew up his car because of something simple that gets the best of us..


Next route if you do not go with what Wil suggested is to drill it out. Will take some time.

=g=

OK, while the air chisel could work - it is EXTREMELY dangerous and could easily result in bodily injury or damage to the car.

The zip cut like I suggested (while you still need to be careful) is so easy and fast that you will not believe it - you'll kick yourself for not doing this from the start.

Like I said, go straight down the center of the stud vertically and it'll take less than 30 seconds, this will EASILY and cleanly slice the stud and nut in half and your spacer will be off.

I have done this and it is the fastest, easiest solution by far - you may even be able to re-use the spacer.