Venair reinforced from SOS are $83.92 more, so the price is right. Though SparktecMotorsports states that they fit 90 - 05, whereas SOS states 97 - 05 are different. Difference being NA1 to NA2.
91 NSX Red/Black
09 VW Jetta TDI White
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02 NSX with 21k miles Replace Timing Belt and Water Pump just because?
- Thread starter jcabral
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- timing belt water pump
Venair reinforced from SOS are $83.92 more, so the price is right. Though SparktecMotorsports states that they fit 90 - 05, whereas SOS states 97 - 05 are different. Difference being NA1 to NA2.
91 NSX Red/Black
09 VW Jetta TDI White
So it does sound like it may be something I should do this Spring, since all of my hoses on my 94 are original. I guess I'll call SOS and ask if they can at least get close to the price. I'd rather do business with a known company from the forums. Thanks for the heads-up. To the OP, sorry for the thread hi-jack. I'll get back on topic now. Thanks!
I dont care for silicone due to dirt typically likes to stick to them. I replaced all my OEM hoses myself and was deffinatly worth it. Dont forget the hoses on the oil cooler because they tend take a beating and were pretty bad shape on mine while all the other hoses looked pretty decent.
I don't mind the dirt, as long as I can still wash it off when I'm detailing the engine. As far as the oil cooler hoses, really appreciate the heads-up. I'll order those from the Acura dealer, unless there's a better place. Thanks again!
There he goes again.Posting bad advice isn't enough - he has to spew mindless rants in response to accurate, constructive information from others. Tell us again, Tim - if someone follows your bad advice and doesn't change their timing belt years past when it's due and it fails, how much are you going to pay for their engine replacement? Yeah, we thought so.
I've talked with the folks at Honda/Acura about how they run their parts inventory. Dealers don't keep a lot of parts around, except for parts that are used regularly. Parts that are not commonly used are stored and maintained in the Acura parts warehouse, and shipped to the dealers, overnight more often than not. Like most big companies these days, parts inventory and consumption are all tracked by computer, and they have minimum stock points, based on consumption, when they place reorders with the parts manufacturers. They don't want parts sitting around for years - not only because some parts can age (although that's part of it), but also because they don't want a lot of money tied up in inventory. This is very similar to the just-in-time parts ordering used at the Honda factories, where inventories are kept to a minimum. Many of the parts used at assembly plants arrive there within hours of when they go onto the cars. For example, the tire manufacturers send truckloads of wheels and tires to the assembly plant, and they are loaded into the truck so that, as they are unloaded, they are in the proper order for the cars that will be moving down the assembly line ready for them a few hours later. These days, inventories are all computer controlled, and they are kept to a minimum wherever possible.
The answer is still, you're almost certainly not going to find a timing belt that is too old to use, not in a Honda warehouse and not at an Acura dealer.
Mindless rants - man that's rich. If you don't quote the manual - you're out - off base. I just merely quoted another source - like the ROW manuals. If that's bad advice - talk to Honda, maybe they can straighten it out for you. I said if I had an 02 - with 23k I wouldn't be worried but do what you want. I qualified my statements - you just don't think anything but the US manuals should be quoted and that is fine -but this is a forum - we express other perspectives - but as I said with each post - it's up to you - do what makes you feel safe. You don't have to listen to us- any of us - read your manual and all is clear. Stick with that and you'll never have a problem!
Over and out!
Science of Speed is indeed a reputable business with great expertise and a variety of aftermarket as well as stock parts.
If you're only ordering stock parts, you can also get them from your dealer, although they may charge you list price. Here is another option, a great guy offering terrific discounts (typically 28 percent), and part of a "bricks-and-mortar" dealership:
When I bought my baby in April last year, it had done 21000 miles but 11 years since the timing belt..............I gave it no thought and changed belts, pumps, hoses.............
Science of Speed is indeed a reputable business with great expertise and a variety of aftermarket as well as stock parts.
If you're only ordering stock parts, you can also get them from your dealer, although they may charge you list price. Here is another option, a great guy offering terrific discounts (typically 28 percent), and part of a "bricks-and-mortar" dealership:
I do order my stock parts from my local dealer, but they have proven to be extremely expensive. I understand the nature of the car, but some of these prices are making me think the Lamborghini was cheap to repair. I paid $3.25 a piece for fender liner clips. That has made me start checking prices elsewhere. I will definitely give Timothy a call and see what he can do on the stock oil cooler hoses. I am probably just going to replace the expansion tank too when I do the main coolant hoses, since it's original. I've had enough BMW's blow theirs that I just don't feel like taking the chance this summer. Thanks again for the referal.
-Chris
For only the TB and WP, typically somewhere around $1700, give or take a few hundred.
It's often done with other scheduled maintenance services, though - such as all the other fluids and filters - and that adds to the cost. And then there are the services that aren't on the schedule that you might want to consider doing at this time. It's a good idea to change the cooling system hoses (either the two big ones or all twenty-some of them) at this time, both because it's a suitably long interval, and because there are savings in labor and coolant. And you might consider replacing the crankshaft pulley too. Yes it can be a substantial sum... but once it's done, you won't have to worry about doing it again for many years.
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Science of Speed is indeed a reputable business with great expertise and a variety of aftermarket as well as stock parts.
If you're only ordering stock parts, you can also get them from your dealer, although they may charge you list price. Here is another option, a great guy offering terrific discounts (typically 28 percent), and part of a "bricks-and-mortar" dealership:
+1 I get all my parts from Tim, including everything for my 7 year major service just performed. Great service, discount and free shipping!
Your car is eight years old, and parts - particularly rubber parts - can age, dry out, and crack. Rubber parts on the car include the timing belt, the cooling system hoses, and the crankshaft pulley.
The problem that happens with the crankshaft pulley, which is also called the harmonic balancer pulley, is this. The pulley consists of an outer metal piece; inside of it is a big hunk of rubber (like a big hockey puck), to smooth out any vibrations (which is why they call it a harmonic balancer pulley). After a while, that hunk of rubber can separate from the surrounding metal. When it does, it can start to wear into, and then through, the timing belt cover. If that happens, it can jump the timing in the car. And when that happens, your engine suddenly becomes a large paperweight, and that's about all it's worth.
There are a couple of things you can do to prevent this from happening. One is to replace the crankshaft pulley every so often. It doesn't have to be done at the same time as the timing belt replacement - unlike the water pump, it doesn't require all the same labor that would otherwise have to be done twice - but the 7-8 year interval for the TB/WP is a suitably long one for the crankshaft pulley. If you replace it, a new pulley itself lists for $323 (often discounted) and if you do this on its own takes about an hour to replace. Another thing you can do, in addition to or instead of replacing the pulley, is to get one of the shields that TitaniumDave makes. It fits over the timing belt cover so if the pulley starts to disintegrate, it starts making a racket as it hits the shield, giving you the chance to park the car before it reaches the timing belt. You can do either of these, or both; they're not mutually exclusive. Either way, it's cheap insurance - a few hundred bucks spent to avoid having to replace an NSX engine, which will total somewhere in the $12-20K range assuming a used 3.2-liter engine (and not at the low end if you want one with low mileage).
But hey, if you don't want to change it, don't change it.
If I was worried about my crankshaft pulley - I believe what I would do is talk with my mechanic.....just sayin - at the risk of "ranting" on another issue. Just remenber this - I had a 91 NSX and the minute after I bought it I took it to Barney (aka Barn Man) - great NSX mechanic - told him to do everything that was needed, I believe I even mentioned the pulley shield - Barney said unless I was tracking the car - he wouldn't worry about it. I know that Ken tore up the track -i.e. his avatar - but you might just want to consult an expert mechanic - I did. Again it's your car - hey it might break....
I really shouldn't answer these things with my "poor advice".....you be the judge or better yet let your mechanic that you've been trusting with your timing belt be the judge....
I really shouldn't answer these things with my "poor advice".....you be the judge or better yet let your mechanic that you've been trusting with your timing belt be the judge....
There are some parts upon which track use puts additional stress - notably the brakes and, to a lesser extent, the suspension. The engine, not so much.
There are quite a few reports of this happening here, in this topic. Some of the cars were used on the track; others had never seen any track use. You'll also see a recommendation by a leading NSX mechanic there to change them, and not just cars used on the track.
You can spend $100-300 to prevent this from happening. But again - it's your car; if you don't want to change it (or get TitaniumDave's shield), then don't.
There are quite a few reports of this happening here, in this topic. Some of the cars were used on the track; others had never seen any track use. You'll also see a recommendation by a leading NSX mechanic there to change them, and not just cars used on the track.
You can spend $100-300 to prevent this from happening. But again - it's your car; if you don't want to change it (or get TitaniumDave's shield), then don't.
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FWIW I have Dave's shield and I changed my 22-year old pulley in December during my major service. It was badly rusted and the rubber was cracked and dry, though it was not broken. I do track my car though. Based on my discussions with NSX mechanical experts, this is the recommended service interval I subscribe to:
If you live in hot, dry desert climate or track regularly = Every 6 to 7 years (i.e., every TB/WP service)
Temperate/cold climate or no tracking = Every 12 to 14 years (i.e., every other TB/WP service)
Two factors affect the pulley rubber material: (1) environment such as hot, dry air and (2) usage such as track driving. As Ken alluded to, heat and dry air attack rubber and degrade it faster. Similarly, the torque loads on the rubber during repeated rapid acceleration are much higher and wear out the bond between the rubber and metal faster. Ken's heavily tracked pulley broke and destroyed his engine. Greenberet's pulley shattered during a 186 mph speed run on the autobahn. This does happen. It is not BS. If you live in a swamp and/or drive like a grandma, then yes your pulley will probably last 20 years or more. Otherwise spend the $300 and drive worry free for 7 years.
If you live in hot, dry desert climate or track regularly = Every 6 to 7 years (i.e., every TB/WP service)
Temperate/cold climate or no tracking = Every 12 to 14 years (i.e., every other TB/WP service)
Two factors affect the pulley rubber material: (1) environment such as hot, dry air and (2) usage such as track driving. As Ken alluded to, heat and dry air attack rubber and degrade it faster. Similarly, the torque loads on the rubber during repeated rapid acceleration are much higher and wear out the bond between the rubber and metal faster. Ken's heavily tracked pulley broke and destroyed his engine. Greenberet's pulley shattered during a 186 mph speed run on the autobahn. This does happen. It is not BS. If you live in a swamp and/or drive like a grandma, then yes your pulley will probably last 20 years or more. Otherwise spend the $300 and drive worry free for 7 years.
Well I'm certainly not in a hot nor dry environment, and my "tracking" is like 3 events a year, the last of which was 3 years ago in the NSX. In fact that car as only seen maybe 5 track events and in cool conditions. I'll take a look at the pulley anyway and replace it anyway since it must come off... But after that, I am not replacing this thing every 7 years. I'll install the shield for safety and live with that. It is also possible by 2005 they had improved the build of that part. We don't know for sure. The rubber on my car looks really good everywhere. One thing we don't have here is dry hot air. It's always cool or cold and it's always freaking humid as hell.
Since my car has 77,000 and and will be getting a TB service at the end of this year, although my balancer physically looks good, I'll be replacing that as well. With only 30,000 miles on the water pump, am I to assume thats replaced as well?
Dave based on this info, I think you are fine on the every other TB interval.
Does anybody have a link for the shield?
Absolutely. It's the labor that's costly, not the part. You don't want to have to open the engine again just to replace the WP. Replace it when you do the TB.
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http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/Cedar_Ridge/Damper_Shield/
I had it installed on all my NSXs for peace of mind.
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Cody put a shield on mine during my build.
I wanted to replace the pulley but they were on back-order at the time.
Seemed like cheap insurance with a 17 y/o damper on a 600+ hp motor.
I'd bet that there are more recorded pulley/ HB failures than TB's- yet the TB is virtually all that is discussed, comparatively speaking.
I wanted to replace the pulley but they were on back-order at the time.
Seemed like cheap insurance with a 17 y/o damper on a 600+ hp motor.
I'd bet that there are more recorded pulley/ HB failures than TB's- yet the TB is virtually all that is discussed, comparatively speaking.
