Best hand application products to remove swirls and imperfections on black?

[Hondatuner20]

I'm trying to get a head start on the nsx I'm about to buy. It would appear it hasn't been waxed in a year or so and the paint is in need of some love. It is covered in swirls and has a few white door rub scuffs on the quarter panel. I'd like to stay away from using a machine as I am a novice and do not want to damage the paint. So my question is what rubbing compounds, and polishes would you recommend to remove the imperfections I have mentioned by hand. I am aware it will take quite a bit of time to do this by hand, but it will be a labor of love.

 

[nsxtasy]

You have to be careful when using abrasive products. It's generally best to start with something mild, and if that doesn't work, then move on to something stronger, and then something still stronger until the scratches and imperfections are gone. Then you go back through the same products, using the less abrasive and then least abrasive, to polish over your work.

I use Zymol HD-Cleanse on a routine basis for external paint, tar, and very light scratches. It doesn't contain physical abrasives at all. If that doesn't take care of it, then I use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Remover 2.0* as the next step; as a mild abrasive, it's designed to smooth off the microscopic edges of swirl marks resulting from improper detailing (dirty rags, overaggressive use of a buffer, etc). It's mild enough that it leaves the finish smooth and shiny. If any paint or scratches remain, I then go to Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #2 Fine Cut Cleaner*, which is slightly more abrasive and might also smooth over any scratches, but you'd want to go back over the area with the #9 afterwards. Once you're all done with these products, it's a good idea to put a coat of wax over the finish.

*Meguiar's labels its products on a scale for how abrasive they are, from 0 = light cut to 10 = heavy cut. The #9 is labeled as 3, and the #2 is labeled as 5.

 

[Hondatuner20]

I was considering using meguiars Rubbing compound, and then meguiars polishing compound. I would follow this with a wax of my choice

 

[nsxtasy]

I was considering using meguiars Rubbing compound, and then meguiars polishing compound. I would follow this with a wax of my choice

These are highly abrasive products, particularly the rubbing compound. They're typically used when using fillers (e.g. bondo). I would not recommend them for swirl marks and light imperfections. As noted above, try the less abrasive products first, and only graduate to more highly abrasive products if the less abrasive ones aren't sufficient to smooth out the finish.

 

[CL65 Captain]

I was considering using meguiars Rubbing compound, and then meguiars polishing compound. I would follow this with a wax of my choice

NO! NO! NO! Don't use either of these products. They are both very, very abrasive.

In fact, don't use anything you find at Autozone, PepBoys etc.

There a zillion good polishes. Take a look at Autogeek.com, etc. for some good products.

 

[Hondatuner20]

These are highly abrasive products, particularly the rubbing compound. They're typically used when using fillers (e.g. bondo). I would not recommend them for swirl marks and light imperfections. As noted above, try the less abrasive products first, and only graduate to more highly abrasive products if the less abrasive ones aren't sufficient to smooth out the finish.

Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #2 Fine Cut Cleaner state that it should be used with a machine, as I stated I will be doing this by hand. Will machine products still work well by hand?

 

[CL65 Captain]

Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #2 Fine Cut Cleaner state that it should be used with a machine, as I stated I will be doing this by hand. Will machine products still work well by hand?

Yes, but the glaze, fine cut is a final polish and and won't remove any scratches or swirls, it is used to finish off after you use a swirl.remover.

 

[Hondatuner20]

well then my next question is essentially my original one, what products do you recommend to use by hand?

 

[sippy2]

How about this? I used it on my sons 95 Accord by hand. It was a lot of work and think next time I will experiment with a machine.

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Z-PC

 

[stevieray122854]

If you are going to have a NSX, go ahead, take the plunge and get a DA orbital polisher like a Flex or a Porter Cable 7424. No pro detailer really does anything by hand anymore except MAYBE apply the LSP (last stage product i.e.; sealant or wax). The horror stories you have heard have probably been about people using rotary polishers and burning through the clear coat with an abrasive, that is next to impossible to do with a DA polisher. Like the Captain said, the best thing for you to do is go to a website like www.autogeek.com, http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ or www.detailedimage.com and do your research. There are a gazillion articles and blogs about what you are talking about doing and there's probably 25 different ways to go about any particular procedure. Any information by Todd Cooperider, Chad Raskovich or Greg Gellas is money. Good luck---

 

[clr1024]

If you are going to have a NSX, go ahead, take the plunge and get a DA orbital polisher like a Flex or a Porter Cable 7424. No pro detailer really does anything by hand anymore except MAYBE apply the LSP (last stage product i.e.; sealant or wax). The horror stories you have heard have probably been about people using rotary polishers and burning through the clear coat with an abrasive, that is next to impossible to do with a DA polisher.

I agree get a DA orbital polisher you will be surprised at the changes you can make in your paint, with little risk of damaging paint. I like menzerna products, they are not cheap but work well, buy a few pads, you should only really need an orange pad if the paint is in decent shape to remove the swirls, then you can use a white pad or other soft pad to put on your wax or sealant. I usually put on my sealant by machine and if I choose to wax as well, do that by hand. There is a lot of good information in the detailing section of NSX prime.

 

[nsxtasy]

Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #2 Fine Cut Cleaner state that it should be used with a machine, as I stated I will be doing this by hand. Will machine products still work well by hand?

Yes. I've used it by hand, with excellent results and no problems.

Yes, but the glaze, fine cut is a final polish and and won't remove any scratches or swirls, it is used to finish off after you use a swirl.remover.

Nope. You've got it backwards. The #9 Swirl Remover is a final polish, and although it will remove scratches and swirls, it leaves the finish smooth and can be used as a final step. The #2 Fine Cut Cleaner is slightly more abrasive (5 vs 3 on Meguiar's scale of abrasiveness), and can remove any scratches or swirls left by the #9. After using the #2, go back over with the less abrasive #9 before putting on a coat of wax.

 

[RedWings]

If you are going to have a NSX, go ahead, take the plunge and get a DA orbital polisher like a Flex or a Porter Cable 7424.

I'm with SR on this one... practice on a spare panel from a junkyard or on a daily driver that isn't an NSX

numero uno rule of detailing and paint correction :
...use the least abrasive goop necessary to achieve results

 

[AdvansCPAP]

Won't fix swirls, but does the best at hiding them if you don't feel like polishing. This is what I use for a quick detail.

 

[stevieray122854]

numero uno rule of detailing and paint correction :
...use the least abrasive goop necessary to achieve results

+eleventybillon. I have seen more detail jobs screwed to a fare-thee-well or at least take WAY longer than necessary by someone using product that is far too abrasive. I was taught to find a small spot that is not really noticeable, pick a product/pad combination that is somewhere in the middle abrasion-wise, work that spot & check the results. If it doesn't get the RIDS/swirls/holograms out to your satisfaction, either (a) work the product longer or (B) step up the degree of product/pad abrasion. If it does, carry on. Don't work outside if at all possible and be sure to inspect your work under some type of work light, hand-held or otherwise.

A product I have found that I really like and is damn near idiot-proof is the Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Kit here. This allows an amateur to achieve pro-quality results in a minimum of time. Having said that, it's not perfect as the Megs Finishing Wax is not very durable and probably needs to be substituted with something like Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant if you want a long lasting finish.

I cannot stress enough that the car be properly prepared for whatever correction work you plan on doing. That entails PROPERLY washing & drying the car and using a claybar or a HD Nano Prep towel if necessary. Again, DO YOUR RESEARCH and good luck---

 

[nsxtasy]

+eleventybillon. I have seen more detail jobs screwed to a fare-thee-well or at least take WAY longer than necessary by someone using product that is far too abrasive. I was taught to find a small spot that is not really noticeable, pick a product/pad combination that is somewhere in the middle abrasion-wise, work that spot & check the results. If it doesn't get the RIDS/swirls/holograms out to your satisfaction, either (a) work the product longer or (B) step up the degree of product/pad abrasion. If it does, carry on. Don't work outside if at all possible and be sure to inspect your work under some type of work light, hand-held or otherwise.

This is good advice. The only thing I would suggest differently is to start out with a product/pad combination that is only slightly abrasive (rather than in the middle abrasion-wise). Then, as noted, if it doesn't get rid of the problem, you can step up the abrasiveness.

 

[R13]

I had all of these same thoughts when I bought my car, which was covered in swirls, scratches, etc.

I finally came to the conclusion that I didn't know enough and didn't have enough practice to risk messing it up. I paid a local detailer ~$250 (friends discount) or so to do a no-frills paint correction. I have not regretted spending that money as all I have to do now is keep wax on the car and exercise care when washing (2 buckets, microfiber, etc) to keep it looking really nice.

I track my car, so I didn't want to get into the level of correction and associated cost that was going to get immediately negated by small stones chucked off of someone's R-comps the next weekend.

Considering I would have probably had $150+ in a DA, pads, compounds, polishes, wax, glaze, whatever, I consider it a fair trade.

If you're a future "polisher" (not hating, but using the stereotype as a descriptive), and your goal is to have a mirror-finish at all times, then it might be a good idea to have someone do the initial correction and just watch them very closely and ask as many questions as they'll answer so next time you'll already know where to start.

 

[stevieray122854]

This is good advice. The only thing I would suggest differently is to start out with a product/pad combination that is only slightly abrasive (rather than in the middle abrasion-wise). Then, as noted, if it doesn't get rid of the problem, you can step up the abrasiveness.

Good stuff, Ken. Don't disagree with that at all, in fact for a detailing noob, that's better advice than what I suggested. As one gains more experience with the various product & pad combinations, pad pressures & paint hardness, you get a better feel for what will work in a given situation.

The big problem that I have with all of this detailing stuff is that there are so many different kinds of products out there and so much of it is personal preference, it gets overwhelming. Sometimes when I go look at the various detailing websites and blogs, there's so much info in there, my head feels like it's full of bees when I get through.:biggrin:

 

[stevieray122854]

If you're a future "polisher" (not hating, but using the stereotype as a descriptive), and your goal is to have a mirror-finish at all times, then it might be a good idea to have someone do the initial correction and just watch them very closely and ask as many questions as they'll answer so next time you'll already know where to start.

Another excellent suggestion. I learned more in a couple of hours spent at Import Alliance with Eric Witt of TruShine that I ever would have on my own.

 

[farm180]

DAVES
you can find it on line
i have a 92 and she looks great
she was in the same con when i got her
after a few long cleanings and waxings she is beautful

 

[Caroline-NSX]

Try google WolfGang Product. I used it and still do today. Now that is an amazing product to use on a black car. When I first bought the car it was full of scratch and swirls. After a three stage buff using WolfGang Swirls remover with an orange pad, Finishing Glaze with a white pad, Sealant with a blue pad my car now look like a showroom shine car.I even had people asking me where did I get my car painted. It look so slick. LOL, funny thing is it original paint on the car :biggrin:

 

[Caroline-NSX]

This is what I use.It's amazing stuff.

Here is my polish machine.It's a Dual Action Polisher.

Here is their website.

www.wolfgangcarcare.com

 

[Caroline-NSX]

http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/wolfgang-swirl-remover-kit.html

 

[etang789]

Using hand application products won't really remove swirls, it will only fill and hides the swirls...

Get a DA and some nice products... seems expensive and hard to use at first but after the first 5 minutes... you will never go back to hand applications...

I use the following products...
Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
Menzerna Polish PO85RD
Collinite 915
Lake Country Dual Action CCS 5.5 Inch Foam Pad Kit
Meguiars G220
Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
Meguiars Clay Bar
Meguiars Ultimate Quik Detailer

 

[99NCNSX]

My advice,

Do yourself and your NSX a BIG favor and get a professional paint restoration done. It will be worth every penny you spend - and you'll never regret having it done. Get some referrals from other owners in your area. If you can't find a detailer that way, check Porsche, BMW or Ferrari forums.

I have a black '99 NSX that has been very carefully maintained and even before I had the restoration done I got many comments about the finish. After the restoration - it looks like it just rolled out of the factory.

Good luck with your NSX. You'll never regret the experience.

I'm trying to get a head start on the nsx I'm about to buy. It would appear it hasn't been waxed in a year or so and the paint is in need of some love. It is covered in swirls and has a few white door rub scuffs on the quarter panel. I'd like to stay away from using a machine as I am a novice and do not want to damage the paint. So my question is what rubbing compounds, and polishes would you recommend to remove the imperfections I have mentioned by hand. I am aware it will take quite a bit of time to do this by hand, but it will be a labor of love.