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First Oil Change Since Owning Nsx

Joined
19 February 2007
Messages
68
Location
Long Island, NY
I'm changing my oil for the first time on my 1995 NSX T MIDNIGHT PEARL.
How many quarts of oil do I use for the NSX? What do I need besides the synthetic oil.
I'm guessing new oil filter, new drain plug anything else?
 
eazay...

You'll need a bit over 5quarts, I recall 5.3quarts if I'm not mistaken (?).

Don't forget to get a crush-washer w/ your oil filter, to be used w/ the drain-plug.

You don't have to replace the drain plug.

G/luck!
 
I am so sorry for saying this, but this information and so much more exists in your owers maunual. I would not attempt to do any maintenance on any vehicle without first having read it.
 
If you remove the right rear wheel it makes an oil change real easy. If you leave the jack under it, be sure to put a jack stand under the rear jack point while you are under the car. Remember to re-torque the lug nuts to 80 ft/lbs.

Fill the new filter with oil before you put it on. It just saves wear on the engine when you first start it up. Engine oil on the o-ring is good too.

As said before ONLY OEM ACURA FILTERS!!!!!!!!!

By the way, what oil has been run in the engine?

Brad
 
All Acura parts are Honda (they say Honda on them). The part # you want (says in the link I gave) is 15400-PL2-004.

The only car that fits on is the NSX and is made specifically for it.
 
The part # you want (says in the link I gave) is 15400-PL2-004. The only car that fits on is the NSX and is made specifically for it

Actually, this filter was originally designed and used for the Legend (PL2).

If it was designed for the NSX it would be have a SL0 infix
 
I'm changing my oil for the first time on my 1995 NSX T MIDNIGHT PEARL.
How many quarts of oil do I use for the NSX? What do I need besides the synthetic oil.
I'm guessing new oil filter, new drain plug anything else?

btw welcome to the Midnight Pearl club of America ;)

I don't have enough patience to do an oil change on my own... nor do I have a driveway to do it in...... so I just take it to the dealer :)
 
I thought it was 5.2 qts
or at least thats what my manual says :)

its only and ounce or two though :tongue:
 
I'm changing my oil for the first time on my 1995 NSX T MIDNIGHT PEARL.
How many quarts of oil do I use for the NSX? What do I need besides the synthetic oil.
I'm guessing new oil filter, new drain plug anything else?

As a matter of practice, I "pre-fill" the filter too. Helps to prevent any cavitations and/or brings the pump up to pressure quicker. Just extra insurance that the bearings get their fair share.

acd
 
My engine is using conventional 5-w30.....can I go with a synthic oil now?

I hear it might have issues.....
 
That's false. Switching to synthetic will not hurt your car. I have heard though, that once you switch to synthetic, you should keep it synthetic for the life of the car.
 
Please please ensure you torque both the oil filter and drain plug to spec (plug - 33lb/ft and filter - 16lb/ft. Triple check the wrench settings, filter and plug.

Just don't use Synthetic oil until way past the break-in period of the car because Synthetic oils are so good at reducing wear, it can prevent your piston rings from proper seating and wear in. Do a few oil changes if the engine is new before you go Synthetic.

I've also heard you can never change back to non-synth but I don't know the reasoning... will it promote additional wear on the rings and thus burn oil?
 
My engine is using conventional 5-w30.....can I go with a synthic oil now?

I hear it might have issues.....

The owner's manual recommends 10W-30.

Please please ensure you torque both the oil filter and drain plug to spec (plug - 33lb/ft and filter - 16lb/ft. Triple check the wrench settings, filter and plug.

Just don't use Synthetic oil until way past the break-in period of the car because Synthetic oils are so good at reducing wear, it can prevent your piston rings from proper seating and wear in. Do a few oil changes if the engine is new before you go Synthetic.

I've also heard you can never change back to non-synth but I don't know the reasoning... will it promote additional wear on the rings and thus burn oil?

What is consider past break-in period? How many miles?
 
Why are you using 5W-30 instead of 10W-30?

It might be 10-w30, I don't remember off the top of my head.

I just am wondering what HI-Rev cams would prefer....if it even matters.
 
since im probably the only NSX owner on here that works in the oil change industry, i figured this would be the best place to start posting.

the filter for the NSX is not NSX specific, its also used on the Legend. but thats the only two cars that fit the application.

a new crush washer is recommended at each oil change simply because once the washer is torqued down on, it crushes to fit the contour of the pan and the plug, and the chances of it matching up again when you reinstall the plug are slim. it may not leak noticibly or at all, but eventually it'll become a risk.

the fill is listed as 5.3 quarts, although putting 5.2 definitely wont hurt anything. just make sure the oil level stays between the min and max points on your dipstick.

a few notes about synthetic vs. conventional:

you can put synthetic in a brand new honda/acura, as well as nearly every new car on market. this is because engines undergo a break-in period at the factory, when they bench test the engine. as a matter of fact, mobil 1 synthetic is the factory fill on the dodge viper, chevy corvette, and many cadillacs. so the rule about allowing piston rings to seat before switching to synthetic doesnt apply by the time you buy your car.

a lot of people blame newfound oil leaks on switching to synthetic, but the truth of the matter is that synthetic oil at any given temperature is more fluid than conventional oil, and will make a certain sized pinhole look a lot worse than if the engine was running conventional oil. another thing to consider is the detergant qualities of synthetic oil. it cleans the engine a LOT better, so if you change over to synthetic on an engine that has a few missed oil changes or is not well taken care of, it may start to burn more oil or leak more oil as the synthetic is doing a superior job of cleaning the piston rings and areas around the engine seals.

if you have been going with conventional for a long time, and your engine has high mileage, you might not want to put synthetic in it for the above named reasons. but if you have a well taken care of vehicle, and dont lose any oil between oil changes, by all means go for synthetic.

if you have been using synthetic but want to save a buck and go back to conventional, it wont hurt anything. but keep in mind that it doesnt clean as well, will break down faster under any condition, and does not last nearly as long for oil change intervals. dont expect the same performance or mileage out of it as you were getting with synthetic.

honestly, the most important thing about oil is using the proper grade. an old school rule used to be to use thinner oil in the winter and thicker oil in the summer, but with such advanced multi-grade oils, its seldom necessary. just go with the manufacturers recommendation (10w30 on my 1992 NSX, im not sure if the later models use 5w30), as VTEC will be affected by oil that is too thick or too thin.

wow. that turned out to be long winded.
 
But it was long winded useful information. I am sure other members will find your posting useful. Thank you. :smile:
 
Last thing... remember the viscosity of your oil also is a function of the cooling of the engine.. the engineers build in a "splash" effect to cool things.. so too heavy and the splash effect can be altered... you can never go wrong by error-ing on the side of OE specs..
 
since im probably the only NSX owner on here that works in the oil change industry, i figured this would be the best place to start posting.

the filter for the NSX is not NSX specific, its also used on the Legend. but thats the only two cars that fit the application.

a new crush washer is recommended at each oil change simply because once the washer is torqued down on, it crushes to fit the contour of the pan and the plug, and the chances of it matching up again when you reinstall the plug are slim. it may not leak noticibly or at all, but eventually it'll become a risk.

the fill is listed as 5.3 quarts, although putting 5.2 definitely wont hurt anything. just make sure the oil level stays between the min and max points on your dipstick.

a few notes about synthetic vs. conventional:

you can put synthetic in a brand new honda/acura, as well as nearly every new car on market. this is because engines undergo a break-in period at the factory, when they bench test the engine. as a matter of fact, mobil 1 synthetic is the factory fill on the dodge viper, chevy corvette, and many cadillacs. so the rule about allowing piston rings to seat before switching to synthetic doesnt apply by the time you buy your car.

a lot of people blame newfound oil leaks on switching to synthetic, but the truth of the matter is that synthetic oil at any given temperature is more fluid than conventional oil, and will make a certain sized pinhole look a lot worse than if the engine was running conventional oil. another thing to consider is the detergant qualities of synthetic oil. it cleans the engine a LOT better, so if you change over to synthetic on an engine that has a few missed oil changes or is not well taken care of, it may start to burn more oil or leak more oil as the synthetic is doing a superior job of cleaning the piston rings and areas around the engine seals.

if you have been going with conventional for a long time, and your engine has high mileage, you might not want to put synthetic in it for the above named reasons. but if you have a well taken care of vehicle, and dont lose any oil between oil changes, by all means go for synthetic.

if you have been using synthetic but want to save a buck and go back to conventional, it wont hurt anything. but keep in mind that it doesnt clean as well, will break down faster under any condition, and does not last nearly as long for oil change intervals. dont expect the same performance or mileage out of it as you were getting with synthetic.

honestly, the most important thing about oil is using the proper grade. an old school rule used to be to use thinner oil in the winter and thicker oil in the summer, but with such advanced multi-grade oils, its seldom necessary. just go with the manufacturers recommendation (10w30 on my 1992 NSX, im not sure if the later models use 5w30), as VTEC will be affected by oil that is too thick or too thin.

wow. that turned out to be long winded.


Great write up!

Does anyone know the proper normal readings of the oil pressure.
 
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