Fully Built Turbo Nsx 800 + HP "Coming Soon"

[E-Nough Logic]

Don't let Vegas get to you, anytime someone talks about making 600+ he's always a debbie downer. Factor X was a road race car, not a drag car so half of that 80k was not helping them at all.

After personally running 9's with the stock S2K Glass transmission and having to shift into 5th I would guess it's possible on the stock NSX manual trans. I have no idea about this auto trans idea though, I have heard it's sucks just like all the other Honda transmissions even when built.

If you are running a manual trans maybe some gear treatments and a cuff would work. I think one of the best additions to keep the trans together is good shock proof transmission oil which I Linked below. This worked great on a few road race cars(K series not NSX) we had losing 4th gear. They have a heavy shockproof but it's not recommended if you have synchros as a slippery oil counteracts the purpose of the synchros. If you had a dogbox of faceplates the trans it would work. I think proper staging and preloading helps save axles.

The drivetrain is far from bulletproof but you can definitely extend its life with certain precautions.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=43&pcid=8

 

[peiserg]

all this drivetrain talk just reminds me i've got my nsx sitting for going on 7 weeks now because i popped my halfshaft and simultaneously ruined my upper and lower control arms/wheel hub... sigh.... waiting on parts is painful..

 

[jorligan]

all this drivetrain talk just reminds me i've got my nsx sitting for going on 7 weeks now because i popped my halfshaft and simultaneously ruined my upper and lower control arms/wheel hub... sigh.... waiting on parts is painful..

Now you want to share how this happened?

 

[Vega$ NSX]

Ha a Debbie Downer. At what point did I ever say he shouldn't or couldn't attempt this? All I did was say was there are potentially things that will come up that he probably isn't anticipating and to be weary of them because they can be very expensive. If it was so simple and easy to get into the 9's, then why after 20 years hasn't it been done yet?

 

[NetViper]

Ha a Debbie Downer. At what point did I ever say he shouldn't or couldn't attempt this? All I did was say was there are potentially things that will come up that he probably isn't anticipating and to be weary of them because they can be very expensive. If it was so simple and easy to get into the 9's, then why after 20 years hasn't it been done yet?

You are no downer. You speak from experience, unlike many others here (though this thread is full of very knowledgeable FI guys).

 

[kookoo4nsx]

I would say eliminating every single ounce of extra weight would be of high importance. Stereo, passanger seat, carpet, abs, ac.

 

[EAC]

I was kidding.

Check out the x275 class. Guys are going 7.50's on a 275 tire. Crazy to watch and impressive how far these guys have come with traction control.

Mini tub to get width is not going to help much. Little help sure, but not really. Tire height is what is going to help. When I went from a 24.6 inch tall tire to a 26.1 inch tall tire in the same width I was BLOWN AWAY. Car hooked good.

The order of getting more grip on a car is as follows:

1. Softer side wall
2. Tire height
3. Tire Compound
4. Tire width

Here lets read:

http://www.enginebasics.com/Chassis Tuning/Tire Contact Patch.html

I remember reading an article about the ferrari enzo WAY back when it was going to come out about how the engineers where upset that they had to increase the sprung weight of the car going to a larger diameter rear wheel, but it was the only way they could get the car to hook and be somewhat drivable. I think it runs OVER A 27" DIAMETER TIRE. DAMN!

Another example. Buddy with a mustang was running the widest tire he could that was 25.8" diameter and the car was a mess. All over the track. IT was a full slick and he didn't understand how guys pull wheelies and what not. I told him he needed more diameter. 25.8" was not going to cut it. He went from a 305 width slick to a 275 width slick and jumped up to a 27.4" tire and the first time out it hooked so good he bogged. Next run he lifted the front wheels. Now explain to me how a SAME MANUFACTURER, SAME COMPOUND TIRE, that is SMALLER IN TIRE WIDTH can do that.....I'll tell you how. Width is not all that and a bag of chips, but man it sure makes the car look good.


JR

 

[NA1MT]

You better snatch up that roll cage in the classifieds, cause they won't even let that down the track when they tech inspect you. There are a lot of things you aren't either thinking about or just not mentioning here. Your BBS with 500hp prolly only put down tq numbers in the 300s so your tires would be fine for that. What you are doing is building a race car that will not be practical or safe to be used as a daily driver. How often did your tuner tell you that you will need to freshen up engine internals when you are mashing it daily with 35psi of boost? I wish you luck.....I will certainly be following this build.

 

[EAC]

Yep, there is alot he's leaving out.

Roll cage (NOT BOLT IN) is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive). Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation.

Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. 2009 NHRA rule book states mesh nets carry a manufacturer date and a 2 year expiration/re-cert, while ribbon are good forever. Check with your local track or division).

NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and a minimum of 6 runs are required. -Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years)

Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)

Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle). The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off.

A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 1/2017). Shield is permitted, and modifications to helmet or shield are prohibited. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.

A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.

Extended Wheel Studs

etc.

 

[sca037]

You better snatch up that roll cage in the classifieds, cause they won't even let that down the track when they tech inspect you.

Would that Carbing Alunminum cage even be drag legal?
I believe Cody had to get a steel rollcage to run at Pike's Peak.
Some factory Porsche race cars that came with AL cages are not allowed to road race in some sanctioning bodies (like the SCCA).

I could write a book about what I don't know about drag racing, but who would want to read that? ;-P
Brian

^^^ Dang it, EAC beat me to it!

 

[NA1MT]

He will have to destroy the car to reach his goal. There is a place in Australia I believe that makes a gear set that will hold the power.......the cost I believe was around $10k, and they were straight cut gears so they would SUCK for daily use. Suspension setup wil be close to $10k and at least $5k in brakes. Hell......why don't you just buy my car....lol. My motor will handle your HP goals. You would just need to swap the turbo out.

 

[E-Nough Logic]

10k in suspension? 5k in brakes? I ran 9's on an s2k with a $300 set of springs. You don't need crazy brakes for most drag setups. Any road racing setup would need more suspension and brakes as well as a cage but no one criticizes those setups.

 

[NA1MT]

Your right........he should just do an NA2 upgrade and he will be fine. What brake and suspension upgrades would you recommend on a car that will be capable of 140 miles an hour in the 1/4 mile? He also stated that he intends to daily drive the car. He is going to need to spend easily $50k to do it safely once he gets done with everything......unless of coarse he wants a death trap....which is exactly what a 9 sec S2000 with a set of $300 springs would be.

 

[NA1MT]

So......do you have the time slip to scan in or better yet a video of the pass showing us your 9 sec pass? Cause around here if you pulled that you would get kicked out of the track with no slip and nothing would post on the board either.

 

[jorligan]

Yep, there is alot he's leaving out.

Roll cage (NOT BOLT IN) is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive). Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation.

Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. 2009 NHRA rule book states mesh nets carry a manufacturer date and a 2 year expiration/re-cert, while ribbon are good forever. Check with your local track or division).

NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and a minimum of 6 runs are required. -Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years)

Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)

Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle). The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off.

A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 1/2017). Shield is permitted, and modifications to helmet or shield are prohibited. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.

A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.

Extended Wheel Studs

etc.

Note to self, let off the gas at the end. Always wondered why Cody left off the gas at the end. I am assuming that once you hit these numbers, that you are banned? How would they know on the tech inspection that your car could do these kind of numbers, I am talking about a turbo NSX.

 

[E-Nough Logic]

No brake upgrades would be required for a 140mph NSX at the drag strip. The stock brakes are more than adequate, I've trapped 142mph in a civic stock brakes with rear drums and had absolutely no problem stopping in time. You have a lot of room to slow down and you aren't doing it repeatedly like on a road course. How many here track their cars on stock brakes with pads and rotors? Way more abuse.

On the street it is dependent on his style of driving. If he makes pulls back to back at 150+mph then upgrades would be warranted. Not everyone races at 150+mph on the street though.

 

[E-Nough Logic]

So......do you have the time slip to scan in or better yet a video of the pass showing us your 9 sec pass? Cause around here if you pulled that you would get kicked out of the track with no slip and nothing would post on the board either.

Kicked out of the track for stock brakes and suspension? Never heard of it. Granted there were plenty of other reasons for it to be kicked out those were not on the list.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-qWA5Ezank&feature=g-user-u

 

[mrbozo1]

OK guys enough of the naysayers. This is how it is. If you run faster than 11.5 you must have a 6-point cage/roll bar. If you run 9.99 or quicker all the rules change significantly. Once you run 9.99 or faster EAC stated all the correct rules. But if your goal is to run 9.99 and once you run your 9.99 and have the time slip your job is over. They can Kick you off of the track if they want as long as you have your time slip. I believe if and when he runs in the nines,whether it is 9.99 or 9.1 he will have been the first to run in the nines and have bragging rights. He does not need suspension,brakes, and hopefully wont break his tranny or axles. You can go to test and tune at a drag strip, go through tech and have the car teched to run 11.5 no quicker. He can make some passes to the 1/8 mile and shut it down just like Cody did. The hardest part of drag racing is the first 1/8 mile. I think for hiim to run in the 9's he will have to run a 1.4-1.5 60 foot and run the 1/8 mile in 6.3-6.5 sec @110 mph. Once he has this figured out he will just make a full pass at 9.99 or better, take his time slip and get kicked out. They will almost always give you your time slip unless you are a goof about it. It is very possible to have a nine second street car with today's technology, as I drive a 10 second street car that still has a stock motor and 130,000 miles on it.Let's get together and wish him the best and hope he hits this milestone because in a few years their will be quite i few 9 second NSX's, but hopefully this will be the first. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted.:biggrin:

 

[NA1MT]

I never said he "needs" to have brakes and/or suspension to go to the track.....I said to be driven on the street as a daily driver he should have brakes for safety. As for suspension, with a properly set up car, I bet you can get down the track with a substantially lesser amount of power faster than one without it. They will not give you a time slip here if you ran in the 9s and were teched for 11.5.....tell you to get out and not come back. I hope he does get there, just trying to help him out with cost projections of what he is going to need. What do I know though, I like Vegas, actually do have a car that makes big power and know the difference between $5 suspension and stock brakes. I already went through the aggravation and expense of blowing up 2 motors after paying to use the "best" tuners in the area. Anyone that thinks it's ok to more than triple the stock power of any car without upgrading the brakes/suspension of that car and drive it around like that daily will probably end up on Darwins list anyway.

 

[Elite]

I'm betting he hits 9's easier than most are thinking. It's not rocket science. Most NSX's who have been to the drag strip have not been setup for drag, they are just nice NSX's with good hp who want to see what the car can do. Even Factor X's attempts were missing some points(I was present at some of their 10 second passes in Vegas). If he hits the points in this thread, he'll hit it. Like mrbozo1 just said, I believe there will be more 9 second NSX's to come(and with less money spent as things are learned and passed on).

Regarding track inspections. They don't know when inspecting, but they do know how the numbers on the time-slip extrapolate even if you let off. They'll keep and eye and give warnings, then possibly kick you out(a lot of the time without your time-slip if it was too fast/quick). If you are "close" to the magic cutoff numbers, you'll likely be OK, but if your 1/8 mile numbers show you would have run a mid nine, or if your 1/8 mile mph extrapolates out to 150mph or something.. You will get kicked. An NSX with this HP could trap around that mark..

 

[v8killer]

OK guys enough of the naysayers. This is how it is. If you run faster than 11.5 you must have a 6-point cage/roll bar. If you run 9.99 or quicker all the rules change significantly. Once you run 9.99 or faster EAC stated all the correct rules. But if your goal is to run 9.99 and once you run your 9.99 and have the time slip your job is over. They can Kick you off of the track if they want as long as you have your time slip. I believe if and when he runs in the nines,whether it is 9.99 or 9.1 he will have been the first to run in the nines and have bragging rights. He does not need suspension,brakes, and hopefully wont break his tranny or axles. You can go to test and tune at a drag strip, go through tech and have the car teched to run 11.5 no quicker. He can make some passes to the 1/8 mile and shut it down just like Cody did. The hardest part of drag racing is the first 1/8 mile. I think for hiim to run in the 9's he will have to run a 1.4-1.5 60 foot and run the 1/8 mile in 6.3-6.5 sec @110 mph. Once he has this figured out he will just make a full pass at 9.99 or better, take his time slip and get kicked out. They will almost always give you your time slip unless you are a goof about it. It is very possible to have a nine second street car with today's technology, as I drive a 10 second street car that still has a stock motor and 130,000 miles on it.Let's get together and wish him the best and hope he hits this milestone because in a few years their will be quite i few 9 second NSX's, but hopefully this will be the first. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted.:biggrin:

I'm with Mr. Bozo on this one. 9.99 one time is very doable without splitting the atom. Sure he needs a roll bar, upgraded suspension and brakes, etc. A lot of us already have all of the above except the big power.

 

[E-Nough Logic]

I never said he "needs" to have brakes and/or suspension to go to the track.....I said to be driven on the street as a daily driver he should have brakes for safety. As for suspension, with a properly set up car, I bet you can get down the track with a substantially lesser amount of power faster than one without it. They will not give you a time slip here if you ran in the 9s and were teched for 11.5.....tell you to get out and not come back. I hope he does get there, just trying to help him out with cost projections of what he is going to need. What do I know though, I like Vegas, actually do have a car that makes big power and know the difference between $5 suspension and stock brakes. I already went through the aggravation and expense of blowing up 2 motors after paying to use the "best" tuners in the area. Anyone that thinks it's ok to more than triple the stock power of any car without upgrading the brakes/suspension of that car and drive it around like that daily will probably end up on Darwins list anyway.

Oh well I guess my 9 second pass and numerous 10 second passes in several cars doesn't qualify me to at least give some input on getting into the 9's. And I guess 900+whp isn't "big power". It depends on the track, they gave me my timeslip for the S2k with 11.5 tech, just told me to slow down, didn't even kick me out.

I'm not saying don't upgrade or not to keep safety in mind. I just think jumping to 10k in suspension and 5k in brakes is a little ridiculous is all, and that the 9 second pass could be done with little to no upgrades in that area. I think how much power and how he will use that power on the street would dictate brake upgrades not 9 second goals. I have had a lot of success with stock honda parts and simple upgrades, and have a keep it simple stupid KISS attitude when it comes to reaching your goals.

 

[Vega$ NSX]

Look nobody is saying it can't be done. They are just saying it's not easy nor cheap and a lot harder than you would initially think.

Look forget the physics and forget the hypotheticals. Just look at plain and simple common sense. If it was so easy to do, why hasn't anyone done it yet in over 20 years? There are plenty of 9 second Supras, S2000's, Evos, Civics, Vipers, Corvettes, Mustangs, STI's, etc. the list goes on and on. So why no NSX? I'm telling you it's a lot easier and less expensive to make a Civic get to 9 seconds than it is an NSX. Maybe it's the physics, maybe it's the lack of or high cost of parts, or both. The bottom line is that if it was that easy and cheap to do it, it would have been done by now.

 

[Elite]

Look nobody is saying it can't be done. They are just saying it's not easy nor cheap and a lot harder than you would initially think.

Look forget the physics and forget the hypotheticals. Just look at plain and simple common sense. If it was so easy to do, why hasn't anyone done it yet in over 20 years? There are plenty of 9 second Supras, S2000's, Evos, Civics, Vipers, Corvettes, Mustangs, STI's, etc. the list goes on and on. So why no NSX? I'm telling you it's a lot easier and less expensive to make a Civic get to 9 seconds than it is an NSX. Maybe it's the physics, maybe it's the lack of or high cost of parts, or both. The bottom line is that if it was that easy and cheap to do it, it would have been done by now.

Yes and No. Think about the old joke: "Whats the difference between a 400whp Supra, and a 1200whp Supra?" .. Answer: Nothing, they both run 12's.

But then you have the Supra's that are setup for drag(and nothing elaborate/expensive, just more than a set of DR's on 18" wheels and off to the track etc), and they can be as fast as anything else.

Not many people have cared to try with the NSX. It's never been a car that anyone thinks about it's quarter mile times. It's more a road course car etc.

By applying some basic drag racing principals in conjunction with a lot of horsepower in a car that weighs roughly 3k pounds, 9's is around the corner.

 

[Blacknot]

Blacknot you are correct when I first started on this forum everyone was suggesting not to pass the 400 hp mark not safe .I ran my BBSC for years at 508 RWHP on 15lbs of boost on stock block with no issues the tuner is everything after a good build.This Turbo set up is not your usual basic set up we will be running up to 35lbs of boost which I dont believe anyone else here has done before everything is top of the line to much to list but build thread starting soon.Side note I ran 11.1 in the 1/4 mile spinning 1st gear on worn down drag radials with 541 RWHP with 200 more hp & slicks 9s seem very possible

I built my Civic 10 years ago with 703whp running very low 10's on 32lbs of boost. This was before boost by gear and before hardly anyone in the country was running FWD that fast. I rarely post in here because im tired of argueing what can and cant be done. I look foward to seeing your results and im sure you can do it. Traction and hooking up which im sure you know is going to be the hardest part. Mt car trapped 147mph but at the time couldnt get it into the 9's my best was 10.20 with a 1.5 60ft. RWD with traction can get you deep into the 9's with 147mph traps :smile: