Went in for an A/C recharge, left with a bill for $1,200. :(

[latzke]

I thought your a/c was frigid, far colder than my car, which has never had a recharge (1995, 46k miles).

It really only approaches how cold it should be when cruising at decent speed - not in stop/go/slow traffic. This may explain why it seemed to work well when you rode in it a few weeks ago (that and cooler temps where we went and starting from cool garage).

The other day after setting in high-altitude sun in 100-degree weather for a couple hours it took it 12 miles of driving to make two occupants (who just finished walking 2.5 miles in same heat) not even borderline comfortable. Unacceptable. I intended to set a precedent for our marriage when I used vehicular A/C to make my wife's lips blue on our honeymoon in Maui.

 

[enkrypt3d]

I have a spare ac compressor that works great for sale if anyone needs it....

I had a similar situation with my nsx - brought it in to replace the ac compressor and they quoted me $1300 and then a few days later they called me and said it'd be $2600 (Twice the original amount) b/c the front engine mount was broken and needed to be replaced.........

 

[SOURCE 1]

Mitch,

1st.) We charge 99.00 for an a/c evac and recharge ( including dye in case you ever have a leak). Snap-on machine of the highest quality.

2nd.) they are not being truthful. If it blew cold at all you DO NOT have a crack in an a/c line... More than likely it needs a couple o-rings and a recharge. Maybe 2-300 worth of work..

Always get a second opinion if it seems odd. And to me, it does.


Oh and he assumed they would break on removal? Really? Then he is probably not doing it right.

Meanwhile his assumptions are costing you 1300? ugh These stories make me nuts

 

[McFridgeGuy]

Cracked line sounds shady. However if so, there are aluminum epoxies where you can repair minor cracks in aluminum tubing (I deal with supermarket refrigeration).

I find the shaft seals usually wear out on the compressors on older cars, can usually get away with a yearly top off of R-134a. I would 100% avoid that Propane DIY refrigerant. That stuff is just scary.

I find most auto mechanics aren't probably trained on the A/C systems, not all but most. I would get a few opinions where you get your AC system looked at.

 

[diddy]

Please do us all a favor a take it somewhere else for a second opinion.

 

[TomCat]

HiJack alert!
AC gurus...could someone please look at my (tomcat) post.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163549
I am trouble shooting and things are not adding up.
Why cold for a few minutes?
Why is high pressure valve area cold...sometimes?
Thanks
Tom
[email protected]

 

[Meeyatch1]

So they replaced my high pressure lines, both condensers, and one of the fans....and today I was driving and went over some railroad tracks and when I was pulling away did not push my clutch in all the way and minorly grinded going into gear and at that exact moment my A/C stopped blowing cold air on any temperature setting except 60 degrees (the coldest option). What the heck could possibly be wrong now??

 

[Briank]

So they replaced my high pressure lines, both condensers, and one of the fans....and today I was driving and went over some railroad tracks and when I was pulling away did not push my clutch in all the way and minorly grinded going into gear and at that exact moment my A/C stopped blowing cold air on any temperature setting except 60 degrees (the coldest option). What the heck could possibly be wrong now??

I would say check the connections for the blower motor, unplug and re-seat. Correction; Should have said connections to the power transistor.

 

[Briank]

HiJack alert!
AC gurus...could someone please look at my (tomcat) post.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163549
I am trouble shooting and things are not adding up.
Why cold for a few minutes?
Why is high pressure valve area cold...sometimes?
Thanks
Tom
[email protected]

Tom

The tread you referenced says you found the problem a clogged receiver dryer. So you did not solve the problem?

 

[Meeyatch1]

I would say check the connections for the blower motor, unplug and re-seat. Correction; Should have said connections to the power transistor.

Where is that?

 

[Briank]

Where is that?

There are 3 plugs on the front of the blower assy. The 2 pin is for the blower motor, the 3 pin is for the power transistor and the third is for the recirc. dampper I think its a 6 pin.

 

[Meeyatch1]

There are 3 plugs on the front of the blower assy. The 2 pin is for the blower motor, the 3 pin is for the power transistor and the third is for the recirc. dampper I think its a 6 pin.

Are the ones you are referring to large gray connectors just abover the negative battery terminal and near the under hood fuse box? Because those three connectors are all plugged in.

 

[Briank]

Are the ones you are referring to large gray connectors just abover the negative battery terminal and near the under hood fuse box? Because those three connectors are all plugged in.

Yes those are it. Unplug, check for backed out pins and re-plug. Just do the 3 pin first and then see if its working again. Then try the 2 pin, leave the 6 pin alone. Since you have high mileage I would also suspect your blower motor may be at the end of its life.

 

[Meeyatch1]

No difference.

If the blower motor is a possible fault, why would it still work on the lowest temperature setting?

 

[Meeyatch1]

What is the self-diagnostic test?

 

[Briank]

http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Troubleshooting_the_Climate_Control_System

 

[Briank]

No difference.

If the blower motor is a possible fault, why would it still work on the lowest temperature setting?

When you go to min or max temp or turn the fan control to max the blower high relay closes and applies full battery voltage to the motor. A sick motor will run with full power applied but not with reduced voltage.