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How to save 15 lbs for $60

Joined
15 May 2009
Messages
68
Go to Metalsupermarkets. Pick up one section of 3 inch square tubing .120 wall thickness 56 inches long. Also pick up one section of 1.5 inch square tubing .120 wall thickness 11 inches long.

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Just going to post images here. It's pretty self explanatory.

Mark holes to drill.

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I also put some access holes in the top of the beam so I could put nuts on the bolts easier.

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Mark your lower brackets.

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Drill and tap.

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Yeah the welds are terrible. First time TIGing aluminum. Welds on the backside look better. You can bolt the 1.5 inch beam on if you don't have a welder. After this you just drill and tap for your license plate bolts.

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Total cost was under $60 for the metal and a few hours of time. A little trimming of the foam was required since the aluminum beam is straight instead of curved.
 
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that looks really good and for the price can't beat it.
 
..however the money you save by doing this will cost you much much more if you ever get rear ended. Since the insurance will probably find out you tampered with a safety device and they could claim that there could have been less damage than really occurred. STMPO sells a similar device and I certainly hope that all the guys running those on the street aren't planning on committing insurance fraud if they ever get in an accident.

I would put a disclaimer saying "off road use only" or some such thing at the beggining of your post.
 
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Well done. I was thinking of doing the same thing.:smile:
 
..however the money you save by doing this will cost you much much more if you ever get rear ended. Since the insurance will probably find out you tampered with a safety device and they could claim that there could have been less damage than really occurred. STMPO sells a similar device and I certainly hope that all the guys running those on the street aren't planning on committing insurance fraud if they ever get in an accident.

I would put a disclaimer saying "off road use only" or some such thing at the beggining of your post.

No I will not put a disclaimer. Why did you even post in this thread?
 
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How much pound the Airbag system ??

Steering wheel and bag are right at about 10 lbs. I haven't weighted the wiring, computer and sensors by themselves. It all goes in a box with other crap I've removed and I weight the entire box. I'll weight individual components tomorrow if I have time.
 
Excellent post with great detailed pictures. I did this and the front beam as well about 5-6 years ago with 60-series structural aluminum. Can't remember if the front beam was a 3x3 or 3x2 piece. The front was much shorter than the OE length. Take your time lining up all the the holes to drill. Basically what STMPO is selling for a lot more money. Thanks for posting.

Regards,

Danny
 
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Man that’s awesome and you can’t beat the price, I’m always looking for ways to save money and weight thanks for the post. :wink:
 
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Well I guess someone else making some of our parts was eventually going to happen

I'm not mad and good job with it.

For those commenting about danger of replacing a bumper for weight savings... I would like to explain the detail of our research...

US Car manufacturing standards have charged over the years... US shipped Lamborghini’s used to come with the bumpers you see below from the dealership

lp400sus2.jpg




Today lambos look like this...



LAMBORGHINI_REVENTON.173112903_std.jpeg
lamborghini-lp640-sv_1024x0w.jpg



Standards changed in the US for Honda too... that's why the aluminum rear bumper was adapted on later models.... they are still required to use crash tested bumper beams.


But for crash testing... The nsx is a car that if you die from a rear end crash... you have to get smacked above 60-100 miles an hour based on the car's design with ridged frame rails, 3 piece subframe, complete axle assembly, 4 arms, suspension brackets, a sway bar all with a motor on it bolted in 20-30 locations... I think you could die in most cars if you were to get smacked that hard.


Funny thing is... We also learned that front impacts are the danger in the car. One of Honda's MAJOR crash test items is one of the most comonnly removed items... the spare tire.


6.1_OEM_spare_tire.jpg



The other funny thing is... honda tried to make it very clear to us to not take it out of the car... That’s why its deflated... that’s why it's steel... and that’s why it's bright orange or yellow.... :tongue: ... just like abs clips... it’s like… MAKE SURE YOU KEEP clips plugged in


6a.jpg


Then we also have seen more than 60-70% of 2002 conversions save money buy not installing the Front Crash Test Beam... We have been bugged to make a lighter one but dude... if you think the spare tire was important... man... Many NSX's on the road today have the drivers life in danger from impacts were supposed to walk away from.


Many owners have posted on hear that they have remover or replaced the beam that was still made of steel in 2005 (never changed by Honda) that increases the cost of an 02 conversion combined with no spare tire for weight savings.

Now... spending 5-7k on on pretty headlights that don’t pop up could put you in a place where no matter if you were filthy rich or just driving a car you saved money on upgrading.... your dead.

We do have a disclaimer on our rear bumper and our website... but we feel this is a fairly safer upgrade than people have assumed. We also would recommend a chromoly RSTB for the additional safety our ALUNINUM car we love to drive.

http://www.stmpo.com/product.php?productid=16134&cat=0&page=1&featured

Thanks for taking the time to hear what we learned.

Regards









 
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How about you go back to the metalsupermarket and get 10 more pieces like that and re-do the whole process 10 times again then have a gb? hmmm ;)
Great work.

STMPO is a good company. One of the few we have supporting the NSX. I have no interest in cutting in on their profits. For the amount of time that is required to build one it's hardly worth it to start trying to make them for profit. Now with a jig setup yes you can probably start actually breaking even on the cost front. I have no interest in doing that.
 
..however the money you save by doing this will cost you much much more if you ever get rear ended. Since the insurance will probably find out you tampered with a safety device and they could claim that there could have been less damage than really occurred. STMPO sells a similar device and I certainly hope that all the guys running those on the street aren't planning on committing insurance fraud if they ever get in an accident.

I would put a disclaimer saying "off road use only" or some such thing at the beggining of your post.

As already stated - The '97-up cars have aluminum beams - not only this , I believe that under cetain conditions this may actually reduce damage to the frame rails.
 
As already stated - The '97-up cars have aluminum beams - not only this , I believe that under certain conditions this may actually reduce damage to the frame rails.

1997 and up cars do have an aluminum beam... your right.

97 beam.jpg

That beam is also made from extruded aluminum with structure's inside of the outside diameter housing... the extruded aluminum beam is still designed for a heavy impact though…. That’s why it weighs 16.4 lbs buy itself. The plastic front and rear bumper combined with the styrofoam are what make up the "5 mph no frame damage" feature. (again... just what our research has determined... not stating this from facts... just what we have learned seek information)

Our beam weigh's 8.8...

http://www.stmpo.com/product.php?productid=16150&cat=253&page=1

Since this is the NSX Do-It-Yourself forum… I will try to help primers know that I want to help people… After all that has been said and done... You hold the crown as KING in this forum for making a DIY turbo kit that has been successfully installed on more NSX's than every other company but LoveFab.

Becoming enemy's with you was never a premeditated attempt on my part but it sure did look like i was and turn out that way. I believe everything happens for a reason... and the reason I am saying this now is because I do know I was in the wrong with how I initiated a website and vendor relationship with you. Congrats on all of your success...

As far as this bumper is concerned.... Anyone who owns a tig welder would not (I guess I should say “should not”) buy one of these from me. There are no custom laser or water jet pieces to have made and the only difference in quality would be that we used steel threaded nut-serts instead of bolts and nuts to keep the brackets held to the beam… a good threaded nut-sert tool cost a couple hundred after you get the arbors.

stmpo threaded nutsert.jpg

I am actually impressed that slebidia did this because he actually did this bumper project because he thought it out well… slebidia tapped the holes for the license plate knowing the stress needed to hold a plate is almost next to nothing… but nut and bolted the brackets because they are important… drilling the “access holes” made it so one would not have to stick a 12-16” wrench from the ends …. nice fabrication mind man


nice fabrication adjustment.jpg


I am also typing a second response to this because over time we did learn some things.

I will post it shortly


Regards



 
I have two options for lightening the load:

1. Stop eating - actually saves you money
2. Fill the car and tires with helium

True, you will prob die from the helium idea, but at least it would decrease weight for only a few dollars and think of all the money you will save when you are dead!!!

Jman
 
I have two options for lightening the load:

1. Stop eating - actually saves you money
2. Fill the car and tires with helium

True, you will prob die from the helium idea, but at least it would decrease weight for only a few dollars and think of all the money you will save when you are dead!!!

Jman

As for helium. Just fill the cabin with helium filled balloons. Of course visibility might be affected at that point...
 

I am actually impressed that slebidia did this because he actually did this bumper project because he thought it out well… slebidia tapped the holes for the license plate knowing the stress needed to hold a plate is almost next to nothing… but nut and bolted the brackets because they are important… drilling the “access holes” made it so one would not have to stick a 12-16” wrench from the ends …. nice fabrication mind man



Thanks! The access holes came about after covering my hand in wd40 and trying to squeeze it into the tube while holding a nut then getting getting it on the bolt. I realized that was futile pretty quick.
 
Actually for the majority of people, the time needed to fab up this part and the cost of the aluminum still makes your beam a good buy.

Thanks man.... I thought 365.00 was a good price too..

http://www.stmpo.com/product.php?productid=16150&cat=253&page=1

Plus mentioning a tig welder and being able to correctly tap holes is needed to do this for 60 bucks

STMPO is a good company. One of the few we have supporting the NSX. I have no interest in cutting in on their profits. For the amount of time that is required to build one it's hardly worth it to start trying to make them for profit. Now with a jig setup yes you can probably start actually breaking even on the cost front. I have no interest in doing that.


PLEASE DON’T THINK IM MAD… IM NOT TRIPPING ONE BIT. You did a really good job here.... I PREFER that we all try things like this. Before STMPO I set myself on a mission to understand my car and taking 4 frames down to the chassis is why I was able to come up with what we have released and also what we will release when the economy recovers and everyone who tells us how much they want our stuff... will actually get it...lol

stmpo 073.jpg


Now with a jig setup yes you can probably start actually breaking even on the cost front. I have no interest in doing that.

This too is what STMPO is about... I make parts that if someone else can knock them off and come close to the quaility... they shouldnt be able to profit much... so it's my insurance policy that isnt gaurenteed... just like insurance :rolleyes: we spend a lot of time on quality craftmanship... I hope that is noticed by all.... because it's a common comment from anyone who has purchased our products

But it also will help people enjoy the car because it keeps my part prices down regardless of how well it's made... This keeps greed in check... (something even Goldman Sachs couldnt do).

An AZ NSX owner once posted that I copy other people parts... That used to upset me because there is only one reason to copy's someone's part... same reason Goldman did what they did.... commonly reffered to as greed.

The truth is that I did copy a part... it is shown here

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123224

and 6 years ago when I built my first widebody (the gloss black nsx shown on the link)... there was only one quarter panel I wanted... the Cantrell JGTC rear quarter panel... I paid the 1900.00 for them... they cost more than every other part on that car combined.

I changed the width a bit and recreated q panels molds and have sold many sets for only $1000.00 a pair....

here is a car we fit them on...

http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=196492

Today you cant buy Cantrell Rear Q-panels anymore for some reason...

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/exterior_performance_products/NSX/aero_quarter_panels.asp

But if anyone ever wanted a set... they only cost a grand and the price wont go up... profit is more than enough at 1000 a pair.

Regards
 
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slebidia

Here is some insight to some small change we made that will also show people how are bar is different... I hope you don’t mind since you did mention our bar is priced well... but also to help you if you come across some of the issues we did…

The 91-94 bumper is oddly shaped and doesn’t show this angle very well…. The license plate bracket isn’t the same angle as the bumper. You will be able to bend your plate in place on your design and be ok… just be careful since the aluminum is tapped… if the plate falls off… that’s a pretty hefty ticket and story to tell a cop.

91-96 beam shape.jpg 91-96 steel bumper beam.JPG P1020212.jpg P1020212.jpg


The 97 and newer beam was how we created our second fixture… which has made a better part. The rectangular design showed us that when you use a 3x3 beam… the bolt locations must be changed upwards to keep the license plate correct or changed downward to keep the “ plastic valance L’s” correct. Making this minor adjustment based on what you see can help if the issue exists (which has to exist… it’s whether or not you notice it)

97 beam width.jpg 97 beam hieght.jpg P1020215.jpg


Also… the bumper may be installed with the knobs on the foam… you may have cut them off (our customers did before). Finding the location of the foam knobs on the bar is pretty simple…. A couple holes will keep the knobs on and they help a ton with fitment.

P1020220.jpg

Regards
 
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