Coilover issues

[manh3]

I recently installed a set of stance coilovers and for some odd reason the front passenger adjustment cup is rubbing against my endlink of the swaybars. Does anyone else have this issue and can I remove the front sway bar and install the front type r brace. It's really starting to annoy me. Should I place a rubber piece between the two metal pieces. It makes a clunking noise on every little bump.

Also can you guys post some alignment specs cause my rears are sporting a lot of negative camber.

Thanks guys.

 

[liftnot]

I recently installed a set of stance coilovers and for some odd reason the front passenger adjustment cup is rubbing against my endlink of the swaybars. Does anyone else have this issue and can I remove the front sway bar and install the front type r brace. It's really starting to annoy me. Should I place a rubber piece between the two metal pieces. It makes a clunking noise on every little bump.

Also can you guys post some alignment specs cause my rears are sporting a lot of negative camber.

Thanks guys.

take it to Jerry at Greenlight Acura in KM about the rubbing issue.
if you can, make an appointment with Darrin at West End alignment in LA to have it aligned for street.

If you slammed your car, you may need Thom's rear camber kit to dial out the neg. camber. my is slammed too much and the most Darrin can do in the rear was 2.5neg. before the camber kit. now its set at 1.5 neg. with Thom's kit and i don't wear out the rear tires so fast.

 

[NSXGMS]

I recently installed a set of stance coilovers and for some odd reason the front passenger adjustment cup is rubbing against my endlink of the swaybars. Does anyone else have this issue and can I remove the front sway bar and install the front type r brace. It's really starting to annoy me. Should I place a rubber piece between the two metal pieces. It makes a clunking noise on every little bump.

Also can you guys post some alignment specs cause my rears are sporting a lot of negative camber.

Thanks guys.

I don't know much about Stance products but I know that the Tein Flex offers similar specs and price and is a much more trusted and reputable product for the NSX. Any reason you went with the Stance over the Tein?

As far as your issue who did the install? Jerry at G-Light can handle this issue but typically he is not a crackerjack on suspension troubleshooting. If anyone other than Jerry, John at Revenge, Nick at Applied or Acura of Escondido did the install I'd take it to any of them and have it diagnosed.

I would not recommend removing the front sway bar. Your car will be much more prone to oversteer and, frankly, there's just no good reason to remove it. If something is rubbing/touching the solution is to determine what it is that's rubbing and why--not simply yank out said rubbing parts.

The Type-R chassis bar can be removed but a good mechanic should be able to get it to fit properly. It is a plug-and-play JDM part and the only issues one would have is if the car has been in a previous accident and the mounting points don't line up with the pre-cut holes in the bar. Often if the bar's holes are egged out slightly by the mechanic there is enough room to get the bolts through. I do recommend the type-R chassis bars and they are a suspension improvement, IMO.

Your alignment may be an issue as well and it may not presently be in the spec range nor possible to get it into spec with this suspension or if there's been a previous accident or damage to your NSX. Someone who knows what they're doing needs to determine that and I'd say John at Revenge Motorsports in Santee is probably your guy. A rear camber kit may solve the problem but ultimately I'd want someone who really knows NSX suspensions and alignments to determine that.

 

[manh3]

I went went Stance because I wanted to try something new and a couple guys here on Prime had nothing but great things to say about their products.

If there was like another 1/4 of an inch the rubbing between the cups and endlink would not be rubbing. My buddy actually did the install for me and everything is well except for the slight rubbing, are the end links adjustable cause if they are then I can adjust them to gain some clearance.

 

[stuntman]

Can you take a picture of the problem?

I'm actually going to be down in San Diego dropping some race motors off at Darton Sleeves this Thursday. Maybe we could meet up and I can check it out if you're free.

Shoot me an email - [email protected]

+1 on iffy about Stance. They don't quite have the history/backing/technology/resources of other Asian brands such as Tein, JIC, HKS.

 

[manh3]

Stuntman I just e-mailed you my info. I really wanted the KW set up but they're not out yet.

Thanks.

 

[stuntman]

Stuntman I just e-mailed you my info. I really wanted the KW set up but they're not out yet.

Thanks.

I got your email.

They are now available and we are taking orders:

Post #48
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112078

 

[Hugh]

If you slammed your car, you may need Thom's rear camber kit to dial out the neg. camber. my is slammed too much and the most Darrin can do in the rear was 2.5neg. before the camber kit. now its set at 1.5 neg. with Thom's kit and i don't wear out the rear tires so fast.

The rear toe setting has a much more profound effect on rear tire wear than negative camber. I'm at -2.3 and get about 12,000 miles out of my 285/35-18 GSD3 tires. The car isn't "slammed" but it is about 1 inch lower than stock via Tein Flex coilovers.

 

[stuntman]

The rear toe setting has a much more profound effect on rear tire wear than negative camber. I'm at -2.3 and get about 12,000 miles out of my 285/35-18 GSD3 tires. The car isn't "slammed" but it is about 1 inch lower than stock via Tein Flex coilovers.

+1

The 'factory spec' rear toe-in is a major factor in rear tire wear. Depending on the application and driving conditions, anything less than -2.5 to -3.0 usually doesn't cause poor and uneven tire wear conditions. Excessive rear toe and even -2.5 degrees of camber will cause higher inner-tire wear.

0.02

 

[Larry Bastanza]

I recently installed a set of stance coilovers and for some odd reason the front passenger adjustment cup is rubbing against my endlink of the swaybars.

Thanks guys.

Take the drop links (end link) off and swap the right to the left and visa versa, problem cured.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[manh3]

Thanks Larry, I'm going to try it out this weekend. I just got the last nsxdriver issue, great reading.

 

[nsxinkl]

Should I place a rubber piece between the two metal pieces. It makes a clunking noise on every little bump.

I have just installed gt-one/gt-rom coilovers on my car. It makes a clunking noise on every little bump. Is this normal for coilovers? What can i do to reduce or get rid of these noises. I had bilstein with eibach springs previously and i didnt have this problem.

TIA

 

[Hugh]

I have just installed gt-one/gt-rom coilovers on my car. It makes a clunking noise on every little bump. Is this normal for coilovers? What can i do to reduce or get rid of these noises. I had bilstein with eibach springs previously and i didnt have this problem.

TIA

Was the installation done with air tools by any chance? Is the clunking coming from the rear?

If the answer to both questions is yes then the links between the lower rear shock mount and the sway bar got destroyed and will need to be replaced. The threaded shafts of the links are slotted (or keyed at the end for an allen wrench) and are meant to be held in place while the nuts are properly torqued down. If the nuts were re-installed with air tools then what happened was that the shafts rotated and destroyed the bushings inside the links.

 

[enkrypt3d]

Can you take a picture of the problem?

I'm actually going to be down in San Diego dropping some race motors off at Darton Sleeves this Thursday. Maybe we could meet up and I can check it out if you're free.

Shoot me an email - [email protected]

+1 on iffy about Stance. They don't quite have the history/backing/technology/resources of other Asian brands such as Tein, JIC, HKS.

I would also like to see pictures of this issue as I am hearing the same clunking sound... it makes my NSX sound like an old truck! It's driving me crazy!

Now when you say end links, you're talking about that 3"-4" link that connects the ends of the sway bars with the lower control arm right? Trying to picture it in my head Thx

EDIT: So I had to go down and take a look at mine and this is what I found:

The connectors are broken on both driver side front and passenger side front... what would cause this? I think this might have something to do with the noise no?

Sorry to hijack the thread... :redface:

 

[Hugh]

Now when you say end links, you're talking about that 3"-4" link that connects the ends of the sway bars with the lower control arm right? Trying to picture it in my head Thx

A picture is worth millions of firing synapses.

The link is designed to be held in place while the nut is tightened with a torque wrench to the proper spec. If air tools were used, chances are the link was destroyed and the clunkfest your hear are its death throes.

Whenever you take your NSX into a shop, it's a good idea to print the relevant pages from the online service manual for the tech and make sure they understand that the car is 99% aluminum and requires proper torquing procedures. Ask to see their torque wrench collection. If they don't have any or they look like brand new....leave!

 

[enkrypt3d]

Thanks Hugh... looks like I'll be replacing those end links! See my pic above. Also in the bottom half of that diagram, it shows the end of the sway bar sitting far below the bottom of the shock body... when mine is sitting above it... is that right??
EDIT: nevermind I see that its a diagram of the rear not the front...

And what are these pieces called that are broken? Toe links?

 

[Hugh]

And what are these pieces called that are broken?

Scrap metal! :biggrin:

52320-SL0-013 LINK ASSY., L. RR
52330-SL0-013 LINK ASSY., R. RR.

 

[enkrypt3d]

Scrap metal! :biggrin:

52320-SL0-013 LINK ASSY., L. RR
52330-SL0-013 LINK ASSY., R. RR.

hahaha! So u think over tightening caused them to break? Also are they front or rear specific parts? I need the front ones if so.

Thanks for the help man!

 

[Hugh]

hahaha! So u think over tightening caused them to break? Also are they front or rear specific parts? I need the front ones if so.

Thanks for the help man!

No, I think tightening them with air tools made them as strong as Kryptonite! d0h!

You're killing me! Next thing you know you'll be asking me to wipe your ass for you. :biggrin:

I posted the part numbers for the rears since those are the ones that got farked when the shocks were changed. The fronts aren't used as mounting points for the shocks.

Parts you can look up here: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/

The picture I posted was straight out of the online service manual right here on Prime.

You voted for Obama didn't you? :biggrin:

How the hell did you snap your front tie rods? Did you run over a drive-by shooting victim? Are the roads in LA as bad as in the northeast with potholes and uneven pavement?

 

[enkrypt3d]

No, I think tightening them with air tools made them as strong as Kryptonite! d0h!

You're killing me! Next thing you know you'll be asking me to wipe your ass for you. :biggrin:

I posted the part numbers for the rears since those are the ones that got farked when the shocks were changed. The fronts aren't used as mounting points for the shocks.

Parts you can look up here: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/

The picture I posted was straight out of the online service manual right here on Prime.

You voted for Obama didn't you? :biggrin:

HA very funny like i said I know the diagram is of the rear link assy (I have not checked those yet) And yes I am on the same site you are...

Of course I found the part numbers you gave me but I dont think I need those. (I am not the op of this thread btw )

And yes I do know my way around the NSX. I'm not concerned about the rear end right now I'll look at that later when I have more time.

The picture I am showing you is of the FRONT not the rear as you probably didn't read my message before. So yea I know that these links do not connect to the bottom of the shock body. I just need the part numbers please. My political affiliation is irrelevant.

I have no idea how they are snapped I am as surprised as you are...

Does it matter that I have the car lowered? It might put more stress on that small piece of metal...

And yea I was hanging out with my homies (fellow gang members) and went on a drive by...then went to get some OE.

Found it finally:

51320-SL0-003 LINK ASSY., R. FR.
51330-SL0-003 LINK ASSY., L. FR.

It seems like this piece of metal is pretty weak... is there any aftermarket options to replace these things?

 

[enkrypt3d]

http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=69

Found these... I sure hope he has them in stock! Sorry to hijack this thread... I also have the same clunking sound so I have been trying to find the best way to go about fixing it... any other suggestions are welcome!

 

[Hugh]

Hey....just got back from dinner.

I did overlook your front end problem. I couldn't find the parts online either. Looks like they're missing diagrams for the front suspension. The part numbers you found are correct though. I also have a hard copy parts diagram.

In any case, lowering the car could be adding additional stress but I noticed you were using the stiffest setting for your sway bar which might also be contributing additional stress since it's much closer to the front of the car than stock. Try the middle hole.

I have Dali street/race (0.875" dia) bars using the middle mount and my car is lowered about an inch from stock. I am still on my original links.

When you're on a drive-by, what's your weapon of choice?

 

[enkrypt3d]

Hey....just got back from dinner.

I did overlook your front end problem. I couldn't find the parts online either. Looks like they're missing diagrams for the front suspension. The part numbers you found are correct though. I also have a hard copy parts diagram.

In any case, lowering the car could be adding additional stress but I noticed you were using the stiffest setting for your sway bar which might also be contributing additional stress since it's much closer to the front of the car than stock. Try the middle hole.

I have Dali street/race (0.875" dia) bars using the middle mount and my car is lowered about an inch from stock. I am still on my original links.

When you're on a drive-by, what's your weapon of choice?

TEC9 of course... :tongue: Do you know of any other vendors that sell the above aftermarket parts (other than Dali) I dont think he has them in stock!

 

[Hugh]

TEC9 of course... :tongue: Do you know of any other vendors that sell the above aftermarket parts (other than Dali) I dont think he has them in stock!

Shoot Mark an email and ask. According to his site those adjustable links seem like they are a race part and he says only one is needed for the front and the back. However they do look really strong and can definitely be used in pairs. I never knew these existed until you found them. Thanks! He really needs to re-design his website you the user, not HAL can find shit.

Or just pick up OEM links from a dealer. Any Acura dealer should have the same online system as Delray Acura and be able to give you a 20% discount.

 

[enkrypt3d]

Shoot Mark an email and ask. According to his site those adjustable links seem like they are a race part and he says only one is needed for the front and the back. However they do look really strong and can definitely be used in pairs. I never knew these existed until you found them. Thanks! He really needs to re-design his website you the user, not HAL can find shit.

Or just pick up OEM links from a dealer. Any Acura dealer should have the same online system as Delray Acura and be able to give you a 20% discount.

Yea way ahead of ya bro... I emailed him a few hours ago. I doubt I'll get a response over the weekend... The wording is a bit strange on the ad,

"Adjustable Drop Links: set: 1 front & 1 rear" does that mean a pair for the front and rear? Or just one rear and one front? What good would that be? lol Even if you are racing....

It is strange tho, basically I have no front sway bar, and I have noticed the clunking sound is barely even noticeable unless I hit a harder bump... it seemed like when I had these sways connected, the clunking sound would be much louder.

So it makes me wonder if my mechanic put in the bushings on the sway bars... I can't see it in the pics I took... hmmmm what do u think?

Also, I moved the links to the stiffest setting to get the most out of my sway bars. I have it on the same setting in the rear.