My evil twin must have gotten loose last night. For what it's worth, I retract and apologize for the disparaging remarks about not having a clue and pretending to know something. I still stand by both my opinions and facts regarding the subject matter, but the delivery was somewhat lacking.
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The Cartek Turbo kit...... ??
- Thread starter NSXTASY_MD
- Start date
diablo2469 said:
Yes, both more "proven" and durable. However, similar logic could be used to compare a Civic to a Ferrari, or any car to any motorcycle since cycles aren't intended to have a service life of 100k+ miles. Or a diesel truck to your NSX. What's an acceptable "price" for the perceived advantages and enjoyment of the more delicate or less durable approach? All debatable. My only real objection is to people summarily dismissing something as junk, useless, or “weak” without supporting facts.
No problem's SJS....apology accepted, this is what seperates NSX.prime and the caliber of members from all the "other" mainstream forums....this forum...like our cars, is a rarity & elite. :wink:sjs said:
PS: I read & research a lot more than I post (admittedly I need to share more of my personal hands on experience on related subjects rather than "consume" all the good information on NSXprime about X's) and I enjoy reading what most of the "veterans" of this forum have to write/inform...your posts included* :wink:
Rob, when are you planning to do the install ? I'm local to you and would love to come witness/help where i can. At the very least please keep me updated on this Carteck kit install, your trials & tribulations, etc...as you go along being I may be on the exact same boat this spring, thanks.nsxlover said:
--- Kevin
nsxlover said:
Did you get a chance to install it yet?
I am also in the area Northern VA and I am dieing to kow how this cartek install goes....
...I'm also curious as to any updates on the kit or any members whom finally installed and tested this kit !? It "appears" to have ALL the needed components to be very powerful & reliable, yet the price is definitely right* I'm surprised we're not getting more feedback on this in this forum 
mackash said:
Just saw another thread about TT kits and thought about this one. So did anyone get this Cartek Turbo kit installed?
Im still waiting to get mine back from TurboTrix Racing in Edison, N.J.- It's been 2 1/2 months of trial and error with no end. My suggestion as of now is to stick with the way the oiling system from Cartech goes. I used an external pump, upgraded the catch can, and sent it to the cap after 6' of lines and it still leaks oil out of the breather on the can under high rpm's. I have the biggest, best pump on the market and have stepped back the lines but under high rpm's the can still overflows with oil.
Today we contacted CarTech (there in the mist of moving to a knew location if you can't reach them) explained the situation and stated thats why they run it to the pan. So needless to say I am running out of ideas, money, time, and my mind. I just can't understand why it worked for Tim Shinn's setup but not mine? Oh well, here goes another week!
-Jeff
Today we contacted CarTech (there in the mist of moving to a knew location if you can't reach them) explained the situation and stated thats why they run it to the pan. So needless to say I am running out of ideas, money, time, and my mind. I just can't understand why it worked for Tim Shinn's setup but not mine? Oh well, here goes another week!
-Jeff
I seen your setup at turbotrix, and I thought that it would be done by now Sorry to hear that. I work on turbo for the passed 1.5year on my car and learn some stuff here and there the hard way, but if I can help any way just ask.
I would keep all the oil cables as short as possible. I think you had at list 7 feet of oil lines. I would relocate the pump and oil can and have it run to oil pan NOT the oil cup. Oil gets heavy and it has to move like 3 feet up to the oil cup and it might back up or overwork the pump. Also the oil can should be around 2.5x4x14 in dimensions or so. Turbo oil return should not be less then 35* in angle because it uses gravity to flow down to oil can, and use 1/2 hose return lines to oil can. Tilton differential oil pump does the work pretty good. It goes for $175 at summitracing and it will pump the oil good, but there are better ones on the market. With oil pump keep everything as level as possible with the oil lines. And when tapping to oil pan have the hole made as high as possible over the oil line in oil pan.
I had major oil problems before and I burned 2 turbochargers and lost ringland on piston #5 last year. I must changed to at list 3-4 diffrent oil designs. After low comp 9:1 engine rebuild and redesign of oil system it is been good.
I have scheduled a dyno session with turbotrix on July 30th at 11am so if you car is still there I'll give them some pointers. I think they know the AEM software the best, and tune with ease. I changed to bigger gt32 t3/t4 turbine and will want them to install aem map sensor so I can raise the boost to 12psi. This saturday I'll will be at english town mits. evo day
Dave
Sorry to hear that. I work on turbo for the passed 1.5year on my car and learn some stuff here and there the hard way, but if I can help any way just ask. I would keep all the oil cables as short as possible. I think you had at list 7 feet of oil lines. I would relocate the pump and oil can and have it run to oil pan NOT the oil cup. Oil gets heavy and it has to move like 3 feet up to the oil cup and it might back up or overwork the pump. Also the oil can should be around 2.5x4x14 in dimensions or so. Turbo oil return should not be less then 35* in angle because it uses gravity to flow down to oil can, and use 1/2 hose return lines to oil can. Tilton differential oil pump does the work pretty good. It goes for $175 at summitracing and it will pump the oil good, but there are better ones on the market. With oil pump keep everything as level as possible with the oil lines. And when tapping to oil pan have the hole made as high as possible over the oil line in oil pan.
I had major oil problems before and I burned 2 turbochargers and lost ringland on piston #5 last year. I must changed to at list 3-4 diffrent oil designs. After low comp 9:1 engine rebuild and redesign of oil system it is been good.
I have scheduled a dyno session with turbotrix on July 30th at 11am so if you car is still there I'll give them some pointers. I think they know the AEM software the best, and tune with ease. I changed to bigger gt32 t3/t4 turbine and will want them to install aem map sensor so I can raise the boost to 12psi. This saturday I'll will be at english town mits. evo day
Dave
my car has been in the shop for a cartek turbo install for 3 months now. and i dont think it has even been fired up yet for tuning. almost a full month delay because the kit had the wrong size exhaust piping\flanging and when sent back to cartek they kept getting it wrong so the shop had to go to a 3rd party fabricator to get the proper fit. of course i will be sad if it is too troublesome and doesnt perform after all is said and done. good thing i am pretty patient.
Well, here goes. Jeff, sorry to hear that things still aren't straight. Look at some of my emails to you where I describe how the oiling should run.
FYI, the pump back to the oil cap WAS the Cartech setup and I did not use it because of the continued oil blow by which they said NEVER happened after final tuning. I got my car back from them in the fall and never got to drive it again for over a year because of oil blow by through the turbos which I never solved as long as I had it hooked up to the engine oil pump. My oiling solution consisted of using the external pump to supply oil to the turbochargers as a separate circuit. This allowed a constant 20-30 PSI to the turbochargers and they ran perfectly.
To allow the turbochargers to run from the engine oiling system, you will need restrictors (60/1000 per another installer) and use AN12 hose to drain the oil from the turbochargers to the collection tank and then AN12 hose to the pump and then to the engine or to an oil cooler and then to the pan. I agree, use the shortest length of hose possible. Cartech NEVER ran the oil back to the pan on my car, I have a pristine stock oil pan to prove it. If you do run a separate circuit oiling solution, then I would use 2 pumps to make sure that if one pump fails, then you still have the second supplying oil to prevent bearing failure. By the way, Mike at Cartech told me that the Tilton pump could not be used because it would overheat and stop working efficiently. I wonder if this is because it is pumping up hill to the oil cap? I do know that others have used the Tilton pump without any problems with a single turbo setup, eg GJ but the oil eventually goes back to the pan, not to the head. Tim
FYI, the pump back to the oil cap WAS the Cartech setup and I did not use it because of the continued oil blow by which they said NEVER happened after final tuning. I got my car back from them in the fall and never got to drive it again for over a year because of oil blow by through the turbos which I never solved as long as I had it hooked up to the engine oil pump. My oiling solution consisted of using the external pump to supply oil to the turbochargers as a separate circuit. This allowed a constant 20-30 PSI to the turbochargers and they ran perfectly.
To allow the turbochargers to run from the engine oiling system, you will need restrictors (60/1000 per another installer) and use AN12 hose to drain the oil from the turbochargers to the collection tank and then AN12 hose to the pump and then to the engine or to an oil cooler and then to the pan. I agree, use the shortest length of hose possible. Cartech NEVER ran the oil back to the pan on my car, I have a pristine stock oil pan to prove it. If you do run a separate circuit oiling solution, then I would use 2 pumps to make sure that if one pump fails, then you still have the second supplying oil to prevent bearing failure. By the way, Mike at Cartech told me that the Tilton pump could not be used because it would overheat and stop working efficiently. I wonder if this is because it is pumping up hill to the oil cap? I do know that others have used the Tilton pump without any problems with a single turbo setup, eg GJ but the oil eventually goes back to the pan, not to the head. Tim
Thank you to everyone for your responses. I've decided to scrap the whole external pump idea and told Mark from TurboTrix to send it to the pan. He said it will be done on Monday(as I have heard before) so hopefully I can drive it before the summer is completely over!
Boost is now at 6.5lbs(as per Mike from CarTech) from the original 5.5lbs. Once the oiling problem is fixed, I am planning on going low compression/ high boost. Winreboot, what pistons did you go with for the 9:1 ratio? the ones that ScienceofSpeed offer? How much boost do you have now and what are your current dyno #'s? If I get a chance I will try and stop in for your run, but if not, certainly let me know how things turned out.
-Jeff
Boost is now at 6.5lbs(as per Mike from CarTech) from the original 5.5lbs. Once the oiling problem is fixed, I am planning on going low compression/ high boost. Winreboot, what pistons did you go with for the 9:1 ratio? the ones that ScienceofSpeed offer? How much boost do you have now and what are your current dyno #'s? If I get a chance I will try and stop in for your run, but if not, certainly let me know how things turned out.
-Jeff
If you run the oil return straight from turbos to oil pan it will some what work on flat road, but on any up hill road oil will back up to turbos. As long as you avoid going up hill it should not smoke.
I went with wiseco pistons, beause I was told that the aluminum alloy that they use is little better then JE and it will not have piston slap on cold engine. I had engine shop do the work in Linden NJ.
My last dyno was 334hp and 300tq on 9psi. I got high tq and small hp do to a small t3/t4 turbine. Since then I went little bigger turbocharger and want to dyno this saturday to see new results.
Dave
I went with wiseco pistons, beause I was told that the aluminum alloy that they use is little better then JE and it will not have piston slap on cold engine. I had engine shop do the work in Linden NJ.
My last dyno was 334hp and 300tq on 9psi. I got high tq and small hp do to a small t3/t4 turbine. Since then I went little bigger turbocharger and want to dyno this saturday to see new results.
Dave
Ok, count me in too ... might as well .. tried everything else. I ran out of things to complain about with my car.
I am still waiting on my mid pipes as I got the wrong ones also. Preston called and said he had them and was shipping them out to me.
GHOSTRIDER
Suspended
So is this Cartech Kit worth a sh!t or not?
I got mine installed at Agile Automotive performance and it runs like a bat out of hell. I am going to turbotrix Saturday to do the final tuning on it. I am tuned now, but with a fuel compensation chart instead of a boost compensation chart. I will post my dyno numbers tomorrow night. I am going up with Nathan from DC if anyone wants to meet us there at 9am. BTW, at 14psi, it made 445RWHP, I am going to run it at 18psi. Should be good for 540 or so.
Rob
Rob
GHOSTRIDER
Suspended
Are those numbers with the spray?
Are this kits able to be used on 02+ cars?
Are this kits able to be used on 02+ cars?
I think this sounds like kit that you better have the patience of Job and deep pockets to get/keep functioning. I always was intrigued by Turob set-ups, but they seem to be such a pain in the ass to dial-in.
Shumdit said:
This is untrue, people who do not understand the project, tuning or playing with it, or that have a warped unrealistic view of what their new turbo can/should do are what make it a pain in the ass to dial in.
As far as deep pockets and all of that.... a properly designed turbo system will be no more effort than a properly designed SC system
The engine doesn’t care how the intake air was pressurized.....
When people try do get a little more and a little more and a little more from a system that is already running on the edge is then you have problems.
there are many turbo cars on here that work great, most of these people don’t post that often as when they do their inbox is full in a matter of hours (an they say there is no market for FI )
Your comment is about as blindly ignorant as "I won’t let my kid ride an ATV they are dangerous!!"
It’s the ATV that’s dangerous...it’s the guy riding it being stupid....
I didn’t say this to start a war just to point out a perspective that you may be able to relate too.
I would guess that within the next 90days you will se 3-4 people/companies that a have a bolt on turbo system that uses similar fueling to a comptech SC setup, about the same boost pressure and make between 350-400 for sale. prolly around the $6000 range. These kits will be built proof (as much so as a CTSC) when tuned correctly. And when pushed further offer greater rewards at the expense of cost and depending on cost....safety.
I used to have a saying in my signature...
FAST, CHEAP, RELIABLE.....you can have 2, but not 3.
Im not sure if it still applies with the way things are done today but the message is still there....
Don’t let this forum "scare" you away from turbo...it happened to the BBSC system, and that is just sad.
01blacks4 said:
I will drive over there and kick your arse for arguing with me! :biggrin:
No, reallym, thanks for the viewpoint. I wonder though, why would there be 3-4 companies deciding to suddenly release a turbo kit for a model that has just been killed? That seems odd, and with the fact that Factor X has stepped out of the game, I can not see why 1 company, much less 4 would suddenly decide to release a kit a month after the NSX has been discontinued.
