I have no doubt you drive very hard.
It's not impact related.
I agree. However, normal use is not binding the link so you can stuff it in the 3rd notch of a 7/8" aftermarket sway bar.
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Coilover issues
- Thread starter manh3
- Start date
I have no doubt you drive very hard.
It's not impact related.
I agree. However, normal use is not binding the link so you can stuff it in the 3rd notch of a 7/8" aftermarket sway bar.
I'm trying to reslove this issue and have removed the endlinks cause my passenger side did break. So I disconnected and removed the endlinks from both sides. I still have that clunking noise and I'm thinking it's due to the part that I attached in this post rubbing against my passenger A-arm. There seems to be only about a 1/8 of clearance between the part in the photo and my A-arm and I guess when I hit a bump the two parts rub agaist each other.
Is there anything I can do to reslove this issue. Thanks
Is there anything I can do to reslove this issue. Thanks
Attachments
Chances are that is only rubbing while the suspension is in full droop (up on jacks). During driving the A arm sits much higher. If it is indeed rubbing than you either need helper springs, longer springs or shorter springs to raise or lower the bottom spring seat above or below the A arm.
I have had that issue, I made lower step down bushings that offset the shock away from the upper A-arm. Replace the bushings that mount the lower end of the shock to move it re-ward.
I can make parts if you need them.
Dave
- Joined
- 16 June 2005
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- 40
How much have you lowered the ride height of the car with the coilovers?
See posts 13 & 15 in this thread.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Univ...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1171|65:12|39:1|240:1318
Do u think these will work for the fronts?
Do u think these will work for the fronts?
Links are too long, min 4" won't work.
You need more stand off too, to get the rod end away from the sway bar and lower A arm.
Measure the OEM links then contact the eBay seller. They can probably make you a set in the proper length. Or just bite the bullet and order a new set of factory parts.
Update:
I have 5 sets of these out being tested.
Will post an update and some kind of GB when I am sure they work for most if not all applications!
Thanks for the input!
Dave
Pics? Camera cable is broken so I have not had time to get another one to down load images from camera...lame, I know
I have 5 sets of these out being tested.
Will post an update and some kind of GB when I am sure they work for most if not all applications!
Thanks for the input!
Dave
Pics? Camera cable is broken so I have not had time to get another one to down load images from camera...lame, I know
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- 27 June 2003
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- 4,618
Update:
I have 5 sets of these out being tested.
Will post an update and some kind of GB when I am sure they work for most if not all applications!
Thanks for the input!
Dave
Pics? Camera cable is broken so I have not had time to get another one to down load images from camera...lame, I know
Dave, I will take pictures for you as soon as I have them in my hands! I haven't been in the office the past few days... I'll post to this thread when I have them! thx
Quick question........ Why are both bolts equal length? I can see one end working for the swaybar end but the other bolt must go through the entire mount and end of the shock. It should be like ~3" long. Did you assemble it incorrectly when you got it?
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You are thinking of the rears. The fronts do not go thru the base of the shock. This is how they come. No assembly required for these parts except to install them.
Here is a pic of the OEM style ones...
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Oh ok. You're right.
What sucks is I found a huge box of those spherical rod ends in various sizes at performance parts store here in town that was going under. 50% off. Doh! So simple too :redface:
What sucks is I found a huge box of those spherical rod ends in various sizes at performance parts store here in town that was going under. 50% off. Doh! So simple too :redface:
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- 27 June 2003
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yea its nice to have the ball joint type thing at the end... keeps it from rattling around too much. I also bought some bushings to put on them to keep the noise down. I will post pics of those when I get them.
Pics? Camera cable is broken so I have not had time to get another one to down load images from camera...lame, I know
How about a $10.00 memory card reader at Wal-Mart? :smile:
I'm really impressed! I can't wait to put these suckers on!
I'm sure they'll look lovely on you. Are you planning earrings or pierced nipples? :biggrin:
Seriously though... gorgeous work oh Titanium one! How much does a set cost?
Looks great but not a lot of range of motion of the end links. It looks like it could still bind depending on the ride height and bar combination...
Here is a crappy cell phone pic for now to give you an idea of the quality of the parts that Dave makes..... I'm really impressed! I can't wait to put these suckers on!
0.02
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no actually there is a lot of range of motion.. its a bad picture. I'll take a better one later.
Yes, that is one of my questions. The sway bar end has infinite rotational movement, so no issues there. The big question is on the A-arm side, these are standard rod ends, total mis-alignment of 22 degrees. The step down bushing taper, along with the socket head fixing bolt, allow full 22 degree of movement.
On my car they work in full range of bar adjustments, but my car is pretty unusual. Parts to 5 people to do test fits on different set ups and I am waiting to hear back...
Hugh,
Current design and part, cost will be $140 for a pair of them, you want some? I have one set left from the first batch...
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I just got the bushings in and put them on the parts... I'll post pics in a few. Let me know if there is a better configuration. I think the black bolts could be a little longer though... maybe by 1/4" would be perfect.
Is the nut on the black bolt a lock nut?
Thx! Installing these this weekend!
LMK how they fit all bolted together. On my car, the bolts are exactly the correct length, so I am very interested in how they work on others...longer is easy to do if there are no interference issues. Nuts are lock nuts, only need to have the thread come to flush with the top of the nut once it is tight.
Keep the feedback coming! Thanks for helping me make these as good as possible!
Dave
Any updates on the endlinks?
Thanks
Thanks
